Oliver Miter Gauge/Rip Fence

[John Bailey]

Anybody have any good ideas about where to go to find an Oliver miter gauge and rip fence for my Oliver 192 band saw. Since I've always built my own rip fence, the most important think would be a miter gauge.

Thanks for any input.

John

[Philip Glover]

I would post that question on OWWM at owwm.org.

Regards,
Phil

[John Bailey]

I would post that question on OWWM at owwm.org.

Regards,
Phil

I already did, it's a great site, but I often get quicker, and just as informed, answers here. Not a bad idea to post both places.

John

[Frank Drew]

John

From the OWWM site: "Rich Fink, an original Oliver Machinery employee, has purchased the remaining parts, inventory and drawings of the original Oliver Machinery Co. His new company is called Eagle Machinery and operates out of the same building that Oliver formerly occupied [in Grand Rapids]." You might try him to see if he can hook you up.

EAGLE MACHINERY & REPAIR CO.
1025 CLANCY NE
GRAND RAPIDS, MI 49503

PHONE: 616-336-0034


IIRC, on my 192-D the miter gauge slot in the table was a simple shallow groove, without the undercut additional grooves you'd find on most table saw slots; if you can find a miter gauge protractor head from another tool you could attach it -- with provisions for pivoting and locking - to a piece of plain flat stock the correct width and thickness and you'd have your miter gauge.

I never had the saw's rip fence but got by just fine with a piece of oak 3"x4" with one marked square corner that I clamped down front and rear. Not quite a quick as a factory original fence, but it worked well and didn't feel at all inconvenient to use.

If you've been using it, how do you like the saw so far?

[John Bailey]

His new company is called Eagle Machinery and operates out of the same building that Oliver formerly occupied [in Grand Rapids]." You might try him to see if he can hook you up.


IIRC, on my 192-D the miter gauge slot in the table was a simple shallow groove, without the undercut additional grooves you'd find on most table saw slots; if you can fine a miter gauge protractor head from another tool you could attach it -- with provisions for pivoting and locking - to a piece of plain flat stock the correct width and you'd have your miter gauge.

I never had the saw's rip fence but got by just fine with a piece of oak 3"x4" with one marked square corner that I clamped down front and rear. Not quite a quick as a factory original fence, but it worked well and didn't feel at all inconvenient to use.

If you've been using it, how do you like the saw so far?

Thanks Frank,

I've e-mailed, called and left a message at Eagle, and I haven't gotten a response yet. Thought I'd try this route. My slot looked like a shallow dovetail. The saw is completely disassembled, so I may have missed something. I'll take a look at it tonight, maybe it's a simple slot and I can make one easily. I've already got the protractor head.

As I said, I've got the saw completely disassembled at this point. I've repainted everything and should be able to reassemble it this weekend. I bought a VFD for the 3 phase motor, so I hope to get it running this weekend also.

I'm really interested in how you like your saw and any thing I should know. It's just the saw I've always wanted, so I'm looking forward to getting it up and running.

If I get this done, I'll certainly post pictures.

John

[John Bailey]

Sorry guys,

The miter slot is not a dovetail shape. It's 1" wide and 1/8" deep. Don't know what I was looking at, but this should make it easier. It should be fairly easy to make one.

Thanks anyway.

John