What Coating on Lathe Bed?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Haven’t been posting much lately as I have been doing lots of rough outs of hollow forms and bowls and there is nothing much to show for it but a bunch of brown paper wrapped blanks. It is all green wood (cherry, maple, birch) and that is blast to turn – but, that stuff is seriously wet and I can’t leave it on the lathe bed for very long before I have rust forming.

100968

I use SC Johnson paste wax on my lathe and tablesaw and have for years but I am getting tired of scrubbing the bed down and re-waxing it every evening when finished turning. So, what does everyone else use/recommend to combat the problems of turning green – that being water and rust?

Appreciate your suggestions!

[Gary Herrmann]

Steve, try Fluid Film, it's worked well for me. Awhile back a wwing mag did a comparison on rust prevention - granted not turning wet wood on lathes, but this one was the most effective. I use it on my hand tools too.

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/

[Jeff Nicol]

Steve, I also use the same paste wax but not everyday I turn green wood. I use the air to blow off most everything on the lathe a few times during each session to keep the wet shavings and water off the ways and anything else that may rust. Then when I am done for a while I make shure to blow it dry. I do keep some rags handy when I turn wet white pine. I smell real nice after a pine water shower!! Then I wax when the banjo gets a little jumpy when I move it. There are some silicone sprays that might so the trick also, but the paste wax is a proven method for me, you and many others.

Nice pile of rough turnings!

Jeff

[Bernie Weishapl]

Steve that is a serious rough turnings you got there. I use air which I keep right there at the lathe and blow it off frequently. I still use the paste wax on mine and have had excellent luck with it. I wax mine about once a week.

[Jon Lanier]

I use Ren Wax on all the tools... do it about every 3 months.

[Don Carter]

Wow! How long did it take you to rough turn those bowls. That is amazing.
I thought I was busy turning a few bottle stoppers and a bow or two.;)
I can't wait to see those. We are going to get to see them, eventually?
I use the minwax floor wax on my lathes.

All the best.

Don

[Dan Oliphant]

For some time I used paste wax, them someone told me to try WD40 instead. WD40 will displace the moisture on the lathe surfaces plus keep any potential for rust a thing of the past. Keep in mind that the Rh here is not quite the same as the eastern portion of the country.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks everyone for your input! I appreciate it!

Don - most of the rough outs you see is from Sept until now. I figure I am about 1/2 way through the blank stash I have out in the garage. Was hoping to have them all roughed out before the snows came - but believe I will lose that battle!

Once I start getting these things finished - I will post photos of some of the nicer ones - just so you guys know I didn't forget how to turn!! LOL

[Mitchell Cholewinski]

Steve
Nice orderly set up you have there for your drying bowls. Should yield some very nice bowls for you later on. Mitch

[robert hainstock]

I have used paste wax, (By the way, minwax has a paste wax just like Johnsons). also I have used a product called TriFlo, and Break free. The last is a pricey sort of epnetrating solution. All work to some extent. :)
Bob

[Jeremy Parkins]

I am hopefully picking up my first lathe this weekend...however on my other equipment I use Boeshield T-9 that I work in with a green scotchbright pad then cover in paste wax. I came down to the shop after a day of not being there due to being sick and found a puddle on my SawStop from a leaking tub from above. The puddle wiped off and not even a hint of rust. I am sold...

Jeremy

[Tom Godley]

I use a product called Rejex.

Originally used it on an airplane -- the bugs just rinse off.

You can use it on plastic and glass also -- it is unbelievably easy to use.


I use it on all my cars -- outdoor furniture and power equipment. I even put it on my mailbox out at the street.


Not supposed to cause any problems when finishing.


I get it online -- but was told that some True Value hardware stores now carry it.

It is also very economical to use - one bottle of the stuff last a long time.


It just wipes on and off.

[charlie knighton]

ya might want to try just plain ole baby powder

[john taliaferro]

motorcycle chain oil 2 and change a spray can. air hose. i have stains on 10 foot celling, i always use shower curtin.

[Paul Douglass]

I use Johnsons and when I do any thing wet, I have a piece of old plastic shower curtain I lay over the rails of the lathe.

[Greg Ketell]

Steve, try Fluid Film, it's worked well for me. Awhile back a wwing mag did a comparison on rust prevention - granted not turning wet wood on lathes, but this one was the most effective. I use it on my hand tools too.

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/

So what happens when you use this on your table saw and some rubs off onto the wood you are cutting? Does it affect the finish at all? Or is Lanolin a non-issue for most wood finishes?

GK

[scott schmidt grasshopper]

the machine shop i work at part time uses automatic tranny fluid to store parts recently machined. he says it is about the only think that doesnt clog clump and does protect. if you wipe down your lathe bed each day with it after turning it will displace the water.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Steve

On 'Wet' turning Days I use 3 in 1 oil and scrub with 0000 steel wool, lightly wiping off any excess with a paper towel.

On 'Dry' days I use an old candle, rub it on the ways and then buff with 0000 steel wool.

Last Sunday afternoon I roughed 10 or 12 walnut bowls. (opps, they are still in the DNA pail, just thought of that) I am not sure if it is rust or a stain from the wet walnut but the ways get a very nasty rusty color, comes right off with the oil/ steel wool treatment. On 'Wet' days you just have to leave time for clean up.

Frank

[Paul Engle]

Steve, did you think you would get off that easy ????? ha! this is a great topic and I like to see all chime in. I have used the SCJ wax on ts, jointer,router table,and wood finishing for over 25 years and have not found a better ( not faster mind you) method for reliable moisture control and glideability on working surfaces other than that HMWHD.... that slick plastic stuffff .... stuff .
I do not like to use sprays due to over spray/s etc. and asthma and the paste wax does not bother my asthma one bit. I tried a wipe on silicon base stuff but hard to get out of the wood if it absorbs some. Never had a finish problem with waxing my working surfaces as long as I let the wax dry and rub it down good.

[Dean Thomas]

A couple of the "name" turners who do a lot of green wood recommend WD40, also. Works for me. You clean the ways every day and do a quick barely damp wipe and then polish dry.

Some folks have tried the TopKote type products that one can use on the table saw's table, and other things. Some folks in my collection of friends and acquaintances report slippage with some waxes or dry sealers.

Please avoid ANYthing that includes silicone. It can cause serious finishing problems later on if it gets to your projects, and it is seriously sneaky stuff that creeps like mad. Can really make a mess.

[Richard Madison]

Steve,
Some great looking brown paper there. Nice forms.

For wet turning, layer of Boeshield T-9, layer of 6 mil plastic over that, sheet of cardboard over that. Still need to check frequently and clean up thoroughly at end of the session. Wet oak and walnut are tough.

[David Drickhamer]

I just give everything a quick wipe down with good old WD-40. Just don't put so much on that you get a build up. It'll turn gummy if you use too much.

[Dick Strauss]

Steve,
I'm in the WD40 camp as well. A little WD40 and steel wool do the trick for me when I'm done turning. I live in almost the same environment as you if that helps. I also have my lathe in an unheated garage and have no issues with rust.

[kazek supinski]

hi steve i am new here.hope that don't matter i would use boeshield t-9 i use it here on all my tooling.it works very well.here is the web site check it out.
www.boeshield.com

[Steve Schlumpf]

Kazek - Welcome to the Creek! I have been wondering about the Boeshield product - so thanks for the website!

Thanks again everyone for your input - I appreciate it!

Seems a few folks like the WD40 method and that would probably work well except for the fact that the smell of WD40 just happens to be one of those things that I can not stand! Always something....

[Richard Madison]

Like Kazek, I also use it on the drill press post (which will otherwise rust eventually) and other exposed metal not in regular contact with my wood.

[Terry Achey]

Steve,

I use Break Free CLP on my lathe bed and other tool surfaces. I (and thousands of others) have used it on field and competition arms for years. Very wet wood will eventually rust the bed even with the coating, but then I simply take a small piece of 0000 steel wool and rub a little more CLP on the bed and wipe with a paper towel. It doesn't prevent rust formation with very wet wood, but does make it easy to remove. I found it work better and lasts longer than paste wax. Also keeps the bed lubed nicley.

http://www.break-free.com/

Man.... you sure did spend some time at the spinning wheel! That's a lot of turning :eek:.

Cheers,
Terry

[Gary Herrmann]

So what happens when you use this on your table saw and some rubs off onto the wood you are cutting? Does it affect the finish at all? Or is Lanolin a non-issue for most wood finishes?
GK

Its on my jointer, planer, ts, bs, lathe etc. I haven't had a problem with any finishes.

[Mike Ragsdale]

I have been trying a product called EEZOX with good results. The price is higher than what you pay for WD40 but the results I have been seeing are very good with reasonable protection lasting for several months. I have not turned any extremely wet wood to know how it would fair but I use it on the ways and it keeps them free of rust from what I do turn and the humidity.

[steven carter]

Steve,

I have been having good luck with Boeshield T-9. It is a rust inhibitor developed by Boeing for aircraft applications. I spray it on and let it dry and it is good for a long time. Here is a link http://www.boeshield.com/.

Steve

[Dennis Peacock]

Howdy Steve,

I've been using SCJ Wax for several years now. The lathe bed, when I turn wet wood is usually covered with dry lathe curlies and sawdust and then I toss an old rag over that to absorb most/all the water. When I'm done turning, I just hang the rag up to dry, rake the curlies and sawdust off in the floor and wipe the lathe bed down with a dry cloth. All done. :)

Sometimes I do get a bit on the lazy side and that's when I have to rewax the lathe bed. :o

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks again for all the input everyone! I do appreciate it!

Dennis - I have been using SCJ wax since I started turning 4 years ago and for the most part I have been very happy with it. Problem is with the green turning I have been doing lately. There is so much water in this wood that it is actually puddled on the lathe bed, runs down the side of the lathe and drips off the ceiling as I am turning! The water seeps under the banjo and that is where it will start to rust. The bed will discolor in less than an hour and I will have a fine coat of rust form within 2 hours! Most of the time it only takes 1/2 to 1 hour to roughout something but on most days I try to rough out 2 to 3 items and that's when I find rust forming.

I do wipe the bed down as I turn but for the most part I was hoping to find something that would prevent the water/sap from forming rust for a minimum 4 to 5 hours because I try to spend at least that much time on the lathe every day.

No big deal - just getting tired of scrubbing the bed down and re-waxing!