Yet another crib finishing question...(with a bit of Domino content)

[Scott Larson]

Hello all,

I've done quite a few searches regarding finishing of cribs but alas, since these are my twins I want to make sure I'm doing things right.

I'm finishing walnut styles and rails (actually cut as long dominos) and my wife would like the walnut to be a shade of dark brown as opposed to natural. I was thinking of trying out the General Finishes Dye Stain or TransTint but during a recent e-mail exchange with Jeff at Homestead, he recommended against using Dye for possible safety issues with infants. I had planned to try out either General Finishes Enduro pre-cat Urethane or their Clear Poly for the top coats but am certainly open to other alternatives. Since I have a pair of cribs to finish, I was planning to spray.

I've read the various posts that say "once cured, everything is OK" but now this has me wondering. Also, If I do decide to spray the dye (without using it to tint the poly) should I be using a non-water based product so that they do not bleed. Any other ideas for darkening up the walnut and a good finish are strongly appreciated.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions regarding an alternative finishing schedule. I'm open to just about anything but as a finishing novice, I want to do what is best for my little ones.

Here is a pic of the dryfit of one of the cribs (incomplete) which is based on a Netto design.
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/?action=view&current=DryfitCribA.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3 E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/DryfitCribA.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Dryfi t%20Crib%20A%22
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/DryfitCribA.jpg

and a detail of the rails/dominos:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/RailDetail.jpg
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/%3Ca%20href=%22http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/?action=view&current=DryfitCribA.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3 E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/euthymic_one/Babies/DryfitCribA.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Dryfi t%20Crib%20A%22%3E%3C/a%3E

[Steve Schoene]

I would guess that the issue using a dye directly on the wood in particular is that it never "cures" but can be redissolved by the original solvents. As a toner additive I suspect that potential hazard would only be from leaching.

Pigment isn't included in the "every thing is OK" mantra which applies to clear finishes, though in a binder potential toxicity is dramatically reduced. For example, Burnt Umber a widely used pigment with a rather "walnutty" color generally has a manganese oxide that is toxic. The other very walnut shade is Van Dyke brown, which also has some toxicity problems.

I think I would avoid the coloration, dye or pigment, and go with the natural walnut under a good non-poly varnish, or clear waterborne finish. Waterborne finishes often leave walnut overly pale, so a preliminary oil, or dark dewaxed shellac might be a good choice if the top coat is to be waterborne.

[Scott Larson]

Steve,

Thanks so much for the explanation as it makes total sense. Even if it is a remote chance, I would not want my teething little ones chewing on wood with a pigment that could be redissolved.

I had planned to use a waterbased topcoat and was concerned about it looking a bit washed out on its own (which your reply also seems to suggest) So, please let me know if this sounds like an appropriate approach.
1.) first finish with a dewaxed dark shellac to impart a bit more color/richness (and act as a sealer coat for the water based finish)
2.) finish with a clear waterbased finish of choice.

New question as your reply has made me think over things a bit more. Is there a specific advantage/disadvantage to using a non-poly varnish (I'm guessing something like waterlox) instead of a waterbased Poly or Urethane finish in this application or is mostly how the end result will look (i.e., will the varnish have a less plasticy look?) Also, could I still use the dark shellac if I'm finishing with waterlox?

Thanks again for all of the help

[Steve Schoene]

You certainly can use a non-poly varnish such as Waterlox over shellac, though it won't be so much needed since Waterlox is relatively dark to begin with. Waterlox won't have a plastic look, and will be plenty tough--certainly more durable, especially with respect to household chemicals, than a waterborne topcoat. Urethane isn't needed on furniture--it's advantage is on floors where abrasion is much greater.

[Scott Larson]

Steve,

Thanks again for the advice. I picked up some waterlox locally this afternoon and will give it a go this weekend. Any advice to get the best finish out of waterlox?

[Greg Cuetara]

I used waterlox on my crib and changing table after a coat of dewaxed shellac. I just used a clean white rag and wiped it on. I put on 4 or 5 thin coats and I think the end result is great. It really popped the grain on the cherry I used.

Good Luck and congrats on the twins.
Greg