Tool Rest Questions

[Don Carter]

I am in the process of having some tool rests made for me. I have found the raw materials and I have a buddy who is welding them for me.
I am making one for spindle use and at least one for bowl work.

Has anyone epoxied drill rod to the edge of straight tool rest? Does it stay? Which epoxy did you use? I am a little nervous about the epoxy.

For the spindle rest I am welding a piece of shaped angle iron to a post to fit my lathe. I needed a shorter rest than the 12" that came with the Nova 1624. Pictures will follow when completed.

For the bowl rest, I am planning a flat steel stock welded to the post. What radius should I use for inside the bowl and which radius should I use for the outside? Should I try to do an S curve, J curve or two different curved rests.

Thanks for any advice you can give me.

Don

[Philip Duffy]

Let me suggest that you look at the idea of a tool rest that sits forward of the post by about 1.5in. The ones that I use are built that way and are comfortable to use while allowing me to position the banjo and tool rest very close to the work. Rests that are directly over the post can not give you that seperation. The curve of a bowl rest is up to you but really depends on the arc that you want to have on your bowls. In all cases the arc should be such that you use the rest in one direction on the outside of the bowl blank and then reverse its direction for the inside. Look at some of the big names in turning and you will see that they are all built that way, except the rests that are directly over the post. Phil

[Jim Becker]

I've seen rests with the drill rod in place, but that metal was welded, not put on with epoxy. There is a lot of force that gets applied to the tool rest in use and I doubt that the resins would have good long term (or maybe even short term) holding power under those conditions.

Do consider that having a tool rest that is potentially harder than your tools could mean that wear and tear on the tools may increase. It's kinda a choice we have to make...softer rest will protect the tools; harder rest will protect the rest. LOL

BTW, make sure that the tool rest you use for small things and detail work is constructed such that it can get in very close to the workpiece. Rests made from round stock (typically about 3/4" in diameter or so) don't afford that. They are fine for general cutting on big and mid-sized work, but not the best choice when you want the tool support right next to the workpiece for critical control.

[john taliaferro]

i have some made from 3/4 trans shaft12" i like, 1" cold rool solid, it gets like a wash board i have to file often. a bad catch would rip the drill rod off , could wow,. i ve seen to many movies john t

[Scott Conners]

I know one brand of rests have a hardened rod epoxy bedded on to the top, which is lifetime guaranteed. I recently saw an article online detailing the use of some heavy 1 1/2" angle iron welded to a post, with a drill rod epoxied on top. In that article they just put a fillet of good epoxy on both sides of the rod. It's something I've been wanting to try, but that list is long!

[Jeremy Parkins]

Get yourself some good 24hr 2 part epoxy and maybe V or U the part of the rest the hardened rod will sit in. I build golf clubs that withstand a 100mph impact into a golf ball and soil and they don't let go I can't imagine the pressure we put on a tool rest would loosen it up. That 2 part epoxy is some amazing stuff.

Make sure you scuff up the surfaces that the epoxy will mate with 80-120 grit. If you don't they can and will pull apart.

JP

[Don Carter]

Thanks for your replies. I have decided to try two different kinds of epoxy of two tool rests. I am also using a 1/4" cold roll rod. I will report back when finished.
All the best.

Don

[Tom Wilson66]

Don, I recently tried epoxying a steel rod to the top of my tool rest, and the results (so far) have been good (it hasn't come off, but I've not had a big catch, either). I used JB Weld to do the gluing. I also used a stainless stell rod, hoping it won't rust as badly as the carbon steel rods. Also, if we keep grinding our tools to keep them sharp, making them shorter, different parts of the tools will slide on the tool rest, and we will not wear grooves in the chisels:rolleyes:

[Tom Godley]

Robust uses epoxy to fix the rod on the top of the straight rests.

I bought the whole set -- very nice

[Jim Becker]

I stand corrected on my negative comments on using epoxy for this. I can see that it's apparently appropriate and durable based on other folks input.

[Walt Nollan]

I do alot of advanced composite repairs using advanced epoxies. The most important thing to remember is to have two clean and oil free surfaces. I have made my own 3" tool rest and saved a 6" rest using the techniques listed above in other replies. I used JB weld. good stuff. Scuff the surfaces, clean them, thoroughly mix the paste and tape the rod in place after the paste is applied and let it cure completely before you use it. JB weld is machinable after it cures. Good luck!

[john taliaferro]

I stand corrected on my negative comments on using epoxy for this. I can see that it's apparently appropriate and durable based on other folks input.
what ever JIM said, but i am from missouri you have to show me.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I've made one out of a section of water pipe. I ground a groove along the top edge with an angle grinder. The 1/4" drill round was then epoxied into the grove. Just make light passes with the grinder and eventually it will follow the grove. Worked well, and makes a sturdy joint. Finished product looks allot like a robust tool rest.

[Joe Kaufman]

"Drill Rod" is normally supplied fully annealed (soft). Unless you are purchasing it hardened & tempered or are going to perform the the process, cold rolled steel may be better suited in that it will have a harder surface. CRS is also less expensive.

Something to consider.

Joe

[Dean Thomas]

You know you're duplicating efforts? You knew that, right? Not a bad thing, but a thing, nonetheless.

Robustusa.com makes one of the most acclaimed rests that includes a 1/4" hardened steel rod at the resting point, and a really good curve to allow plenty of fat-fisted turners to get LOTS of fingers under the tool and against the rest.

The other hardened steel rest is one made by folks in Tennessee and marketed by Woodcraft and others. Both excellent value and already done. If you've got inexpensive steel and a friendly welder, that's fine, but if you're paying for materials and welding services, you might want to look at Robust's rests.

[Tom Wilson66]

That's fine for the ones with 1" tool post, but my Jet mini has a 5/8" tool post, and none of the above will fit it, so we little lathe guys have to make our own. Plus, if we make it ourselves, we save a couple of dollars to buy more wood

[Dean Thomas]

That's fine for the ones with 1" tool post, but my Jet mini has a 5/8" tool post, and none of the above will fit it, so we little lathe guys have to make our own. Plus, if we make it ourselves, we save a couple of dollars to buy more wood
Not true on the won't fit thing! And savings? You may or may not save, actually. Time, quality materials, trial & error instead of someone else's R&D. Plus homemade stuff isn't always that accurate. Been there, lived with that for a long time, even with stuff from well-intentioned friends. "Great" welders who couldn't find a 90º angle to save their business! Nice, but not precision minded, and folks who did not understand a wood turner's needs.

Now, Woodcraft has their own tool rest system. Maybe not so good IMO as the system I'm going to mention now, but it also has a 5/8" post for the Jet & Delta minis. You can see the system HERE (http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/58diameterpost.html).

[David Walser]

The Robust tool rest also comes with a 5/8" tool post. Here's a link to CSUSA's catalog: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Tool_Rests___Robust_Comfort_To ol_Rest___robust_tool_rest?Args=

[Leo Van Der Loo]

The hard rod on the toolrest has been done for years well before there was even a robust co., and cold rolled steel is too soft as is most stainless steel, if epoxied onto a flat surface it will stay put, if you want to install it on a round steel rod make sure it is right on top or machine a groove for the rod to sit in, though I prefer a rest where the fulcrum is close to the edge, it does make a difference, especially with thinner tools.

[Tom Wilson66]

David, didn't check the web site for this, and it is not in their catalog, for the 5/8" post. Guess I'm not up-to-date. I have tried the round bar tool rests, and don't like being so far from the edge when turning.

[David Walser]

I agree about the round tool rests. I prefer the "Robust style" that allows you to get the edge of the tool rest right up to the wood.

[Brent English]

Hi Guys:

Brent English from Robust Tools here:

Just for clarification, we do offer our tool rests with both 5/8" and 1" posts. We also take special orders for 3/4, 1 1/8 and 1 1/4" posts.

We do use a hardened steel rod, actually a Thompson linear bearing rod.

If you want to make your own, one place to get the rods is McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ Just enter "hardened rod" in their little search window - there are all kinds of diameters and lengths, plus they have no minimum order.

For epoxy, we use an industrial 3M product for metal to metal. Several folks have mentioned JB Weld and that should also work very well. Please take the advice about roughing up both surfaces. Also make sure the surfaces are fully degreased.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with cold rolled. Once you get passed the superficial stressed skin on the surface, you might as well be rubbing on a piece of angle iron.

Hope this helps clarify a few things about Robust and Happy Turning.

Brent English, Robust Tools

[Don Carter]

I have been having problems posting a new thread so I will post the pictures here of my shopmade tool rest.

It is a six inch piece of angle iron with a post welded to it.

I epoxied a 1/4" piece of cold rolled steel to the top.

I will report back when I have test driven it. ;)

All the best.

Don