Euro hinge experts?

[Joe Chritz]

I am looking for a 35mm cup 1/2" overlay that allows the door to swing completely clear of the cabinet opening.

What is happening is that the door is sticking into the opening and when the drawers are opened the runners hit the doors.

I am trying to avoid having to go with a visible hinge style if possible and the existing doors are already drilled for 35mm hinges.

None of the catalogs I have really say if they clear or not.

Thanks in advance

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

Most of these hinges will create the condition you are encountering. The common solution is to use spacers (like these: http://www.kitchenpulloutshelf.com/spacers.htm ) to allow the pullouts to clear the doors. If the doors are pairs, you need spacers on both sides. A single door opening only needs spacers on the hinge side. Some make the spacers out of wood.

[Mikail Khan]

You need the zero clearance hinges from Blum. Door clears opening when it is open @90 deg. Used them on my kitchen cabinets.

Available from Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16&filter=zero%20clearance). Expensive at about $25 per pair.

Slightly cheaper from woodworkers hardware (http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/ProductID/B071T7500B)or woodworkers supply (http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=134-429&search=Zero%20Clearance). But they sell the mounting plate separately. Make sure you get the correct one - I believe you will only get the "no obstruction effect" with the 0mm mounting plate.

MK

[Paul Girouard]

Make sure you get the correct one - I believe you will only get the "no obstruction effect" with the 0mm mounting plate.




Part of his problem is the 1/2 OL on his doors.

BUT generally speaking with euro hinges all pullouts should be on some type of standoff.

David's got the right answer , cut down the pullouts add standoff's , or solid wood standoffs , on the hinge side / sides.

They also sell a bumper that screws onto the drawer / pull out thats nylon so IF some one doesn't open the door all the way before they pull the pullout out , the nylon bumper hits the door back instead of the , generally , metal drawer slide.

http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Cabinet%20Drawer%20Slides/CatID/Slide%20Accessories/SubCatID/Drawer%20Bumpers


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http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/34595-02-500.jpg

You might make it work with a 170 or 165 deg. hinge , BUT more than likely the hinge plate will be right in the way.
And you have to be able to open the door almost all the way. So IF your in a corner , or where some thing would obstruct that much opening of the door you'll still be blocked up.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I have exactly the same situation with a pantry that is adjacent to one wall. The hinge allows the inside edge of the door to be in the same plane as the door when open. I use full extension hinges wihch only leaves 1/2 inch clearance for the drawer.

Hinges are available form Lee Valley.

Fred Mc.

[Chip Lindley]

Even with the zero clearance Blum hinges, the hinge mount on the inside of the cabinet still must be worked around. Though the door is completely clear of the opening, the hinge mount is still protruding and in the way of slide-outs by about 3/4". This is a fact which must be delt with. Sad but true. You lose this 3/4" to the hinge hardware, but make up for it by the use of under-mount rather than side-mount slides. Life is not perfect, neither are our choices in cabinet making!

[Ed Peters]

What you should be looking for (assuming that I understand your problem.....AND I DO!!!) is a face mount cup hinge. I have used them in the distant past and must here confess, I probably bought them at Lowes.

Ed

[Joe Chritz]

Much thanks.

If the drawers weren't already built and installed it wouldn't be an issue. Originally the doors were going to be switched to face mount hinges to avoid the brackets and doors. I will check out some of those and see what works.

The mounting brackets sit between the drawers so they aren't in the way at all, just the door edge hitting the drawer runner.

Thanks again.

Joe

[Karl Brogger]

For roll out trays.
I drill most things 3" OC for the hinges. For ROT's I drill the hinge 6" OC. With a 4" ROT this keeps the bottom hinge out of the way vertically. As David mentioned you should also space the ROT's in a bit to clear the door as well.

With 1/2" OL, you want a 170* hinge, bored at 5mm. The part number through HDL is B071T6550 for the screw in type, they're $3.03 a piece. You'll also need a 3mm hinge plate. HDL part # B175L6030.21, they're $.75 a piece if you buy less than 50. This setup won't work if you have a wall next to the cabinet, as there isn't enough room for the door to swing clear of the opening.

www.hdlusa.com (http://www.hdlusa.com) I know they have a retail side of things, I deal with the wholesale part. You pay a bit more, but the wrecking you'll get from Rockler is absurd.


If it were me, I'd pull the doors off, redrill the bottom hinge, and cover it with one of those cheesy fillers. If that still didn't work, remake the trays smaller with spacers.

[Rob Blaustein]

I am about to build some cabinets and some will have pullout drawers so I have looked into this. The hinge I bought for those cabinets is the one Mikail specified in post #3 above. It does not get around the issue of the pullout hitting the hinge--that requires strategic placement of drawers relative to hinges, or spacers as suggested--but it does deal with the pullout hitting the door, which is your problem. If you don't want to remake anything that should solve your problem.

By the way, the Blum hinge catalog is a very useful resource (you can download it from the Blum site) once you've spent some time deciphering the code. It is not written in the most intuitive manner but after a while you can get the hang of it. You can also call their support number and they will explain things to you if you have questions.