1/2" or 3/4" pipe clamps?

[Brian Effinger]

I was just wondering what everyone thought about the differences in using 1/2" pipe clamps over the 3/4" size. Does one have an advantage over the other? I'd like to get a few more, but am not sure which size to get. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Brian

[Jim Becker]

3/4" are the "defacto standard" when it comes to pipe clamps. Many more choices there, too, including some with "feet".

[rob mason]

I have all 1/2" and am very disappointed. I need to get all 3/4" - the 1/2" just do not have the pressure as almost all of the pipes are slightly bent.

[Leo Graywacz]

I have all 1/2". If you have bent your 1/2" pipes you are doing something wrong. You should not need that much pressure to clamp something. 3/4" pipe is sturdier. And more expensive along with the heads being more price too.

[Tom Veatch]

You might be interested in this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?referrerid=5960&t=94199)from about a month ago.

[Denny Rice]

3/4" pipe is the only way to go. I had some 1/2" pipe clamp when I first put togeather a woodshop yrs. ago, I soon found out they just wern't heavy enough to do the things I needed to do. I sold them in the classified ad in my local newpaper just to get rid of them. If I were purchasing clamps in the 3/4" arena today I think I would look hard at the Rockler clamps. I really like the built in feet the designed in their clamps.

[Leo Graywacz]

What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.

[Peter Quinn]

My Dad and Grandfather both used 1/2" pipe clamps quite a bit. I don't own any but thats more to do with my needs than their faults. It should be obvious that 3/4" clamps will apply more pressure, and that 1/2" clamps will bow before 3/4" when equal pressure is applied. Stronger pipe, stronger clamp. Question is how much force do you need to do the work you do?

I like to use the lightest clamp I can for a given task and along that line of thinking I have several different weight classes in my shop. I don't like to carry more weight than I need to or apply more force than is necessary, nor do I like to stress under powered clamps to the breaking point. Right tool for each job. I think 1/2" would be good for cabinet doors, some case work, and a host of other jobs. For gluing up large tops, counters, laminated beams or such I think 1/2" would be a bit light.

I guess if you had limited budget for clamps the theory would be to get the strongest variety you could and use them with discretion on lighter work, as the lighter clamps can't really deliver the performance you need for the heavier glue ups. If you have limited space and budget it might be wise to go 3/4" first to have that capacity if needed. Ideally I like a mix of clamps from light to heavy duty, and 1/2" pipe clamps may fill a need in such a mix.

[Denny Rice]

What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.


I don't think I have ever thought of using a bungee cord for anything in the shop...LOL I found out early that I needed a stout clamp when I was gluing up a large tabletop. I have found with wider glue-ups the clamps tend to shift when appling pressure to the glue up. PLus I like the design and the bigger handles on the 3/4" clamps.

[Leo Graywacz]

I don't think I have ever thought of using a bungee cord for anything in the shop...LOL I found out early that I needed a stout clamp when I was gluing up a large tabletop. I have found with wider glue-ups the clamps tend to shift when appling pressure to the glue up. PLus I like the design and the bigger handles on the 3/4" clamps.


When I was working in a shop that specialized speaker box building shop we used bungees for gluing up lots of odd shaped things. We would have a jig built that was the shape of the speaker box and then use the bungees to clamp it down. non of these boxes had 90* angles. We used a special glue, thick as all get out. The bungees made it very quick to put things together. If the joint is good, little pressure is required.

[Tom Esh]

I've never needed more than 1/2" and never had a reason to apply so much pressure as to make pipe flex an issue. Using enough clamps to properly distribute the force over the joint is far more important.

[Jim Becker]

What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.

The glue manufacturers and various woodworking "experts" tend to indicate that clamping pressure is important to the best glue bond for structural joinery. That said, I've often used blue painter's tape to "clamp" some types of things that are more decorative in nature...a similar situation to your bungee cord example.

[Leo Graywacz]

They suggest you get a glueline that is about 2-3 thousandths of an inch across. If you have flat and true joinery it shouldn't be a problem. If you have 2 boards you are gluing up and when you put them together and there is a 1/4" gap between them, then you have a problem.

[Tony Bilello]

everyone here that uses 1/2" pipe clamps does not say what they make.
The size of the clamps are determined by what you normally use them for. If you do 'small' work then 1/2" is all you will normally need.
I use both sizes and I build furniture. On a long dresser or cabinet, the 1/2" clamp will definitely bow and that will change the clamping pressure angle. For pieces glued up under 3' I will use the 1/2" clamp.

[Peter Quadarella]

I am not saying that clamping with 1/2" pipe clamps isn't enough pressure to make a stronger than wood bond. However, the glue manufacturers and independent testers have shown that there are specific PSI ratings that give the strongest bond, and those PSI ratings are significantly higher than most peope realize. The old maxim of starving the joint is, based on what I have read, and in my humble opinion, and at the least using PVA glue, an old wives tale. Therefore, despite admonitions that you shouldn't over clamp your wood - there is no harm to doing so and in fact you are making a stronger joint than those who don't clamp as hard.

Whether that stronger joint is necessary or not is a valid argument of course.

[Per Swenson]

3/4
simple as that.

[BOB OLINGER]

I have a couple of 1/2" but mostly 3/4". Any additionals will be only 3/4". Maybe they've changed and I've not noticed, but the tightening mechanism on the 3/4" is a crank-type while the mechanism on the 1/2" is a slip rod. This alone is reason to get the 3/4".

[jim oakes]

I have both and I"ll reach for the 1/2" first. They work as good as 3/4" or the heavy Jorgensen "I" beam clamps for most of the work I do.

I like the lighter weight.

[Howard Acheson]

3/4" black iron pipe clamps will exert about 1,000 -1,200 pounds of force. 1/2" pipe clamps exert about 400 -500 pounds according to some magazine tests from a couple of years ago and information contained in the Wood Handbook from the US Forest Service Forest Products Lab.

The same publication and directions from Franklin Adhesives (manufacturers of Titebond) recommend 200-300 psi for the strongest bonds and least glueline when gluing hardwoods. So, it will take twice as many clamps to get full pressure on a glue joint.

Personally, I only use 1/2" pipe clamps on things like drawers and small projects. They begin to bend well below the pressure I want to put on many joints.

[Adam Grills]

For the little difference in price why not go 3/4. Don't own any 1/2". I recently bought 1" at an auction. They are great! Don't know the manufacture. Also have and think Jorgensen "I" beam clamps are great!

I have found that the recomended pressure for clamping from manufactures is spot on. Not that the joint will fail but there is less seasonal movement in the joints.
Grillzy

[Jacob Reverb]

3/4" is the only way to go IMHO.