Warm up pine project?

[Keith Nordyke]

I just finished a pine tool case and applied a first coat of spar varnish (miniwax urethane). My impression is that it is too "white" and needs some warmth or perhaps an amber tint like shellac would give it. Should I sand it back down, apply a coat of shellac and then use the spar varnish? Or, is there something I can put over the light first coat of spar varnish. For what it's worth, the wood soaked up the varnish and it appears that I could probably apply something on top. I am a complete novice as to this finishing business. Any suggestions are appreciated!

[Jim Becker]

Why are you using "spar varnish"? Long-oil varnishes are great for things that have to bend (like, well...spars), but they are also soft.

But to your question, if you use dewaxed shellac, you can just put it over your varnish and move on once you have the color you want. You want de-waxed shellac to insure adhesion of any finish containing the urethane resins.

BTW, welcome to SMC!

[Keith Nordyke]

Thanks. I'll try the shellac. What would you suggest to use on top? I am looking for something that will handle use and mild abuse.

[Jim Becker]

Any varnish will pretty much perform the same way relative to use and abuse. But I typically finish stuff like this with just shellac since it's easily repairable.

[Keith Nordyke]

I brushed on shellac tonight. I have a fair number of run marks. I tried to be very careful to avoid these runs. Do I just try to sand them out and re-brush?

[Jim Becker]

Keith, yes, you can knock the runs down and then lightly re-coat. The beauty of shellac is that a new application dissolves into the previous. It doesn't go on in layers like varnish does, so it's a lot easier to repair. While you can block sand the runs, you may want to consider using a card scraper to knock them down...carefully, of course.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on shellac for shop cabs. I've been beating on my flip top stand for a couple years and its doing fine. I also use it on jigs and sleds. Its after the fact but I find padding or spraying shellac to be the best bet in a smooth application. Easy to repair runs and such though so, no worries.

[Prashun Patel]

I was previously counselled not to put brittle (shellac) finishes OVER soft finishes (spar varnish). But I haven't had personal experience with its failure.

As for your ridges, I'd sand the ridges down pretty aggressively with 220gt. Get the surface perfectly flat again; you'll remove most of yr shellac coat. Then thin yr shellac to 1# with isopropyl alcohol. That will retard the drying and give you a little time to 'rebrush' once or twice.

But if it were me (after Steve's and Howard's recent advice) I'd probably just continue with spar. It'll impart its own amber color which will add some warmth. You could also tint yr varnish with a oil-soluble dye.

[Russell Tribby]

Keith, it may not help you with your current situation but for next time let the project sit for a couple of weeks (if that's possible). The pine will take on that yellowing/golden look that I think you're after. I would then apply a washcoat of amber shellac. Experiment with different stains after that to achieve the color that you want.