Need gluing advice on re-sizing oak countertop

[Don Hein]

I'd like to get some advice on re-sizing an Ikea oak countertop, especially the glue-up plan.

The Ikea countertop is 1 1/2" thick x 25" wide, and is made of glued-up oak strips approximately 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" wide. I'm using a four-foot section of this to make a tabletop for an in-kitchen breakfast nook styled like a restaurant booth.

Unfortunately, the narrow 25" width of the new countertop is not wide enough. I have to bump that up to make a 30-31" wide x 48" tabletop.

I have some identical Ikea oak countertop left over from a previous project. I plan to rip the new countertop down the middle, then use some of the scrap to insert the additional width necessary to result in a completed tabletop of the desired width.

So, I'd like some input on the glue-up. For example, would there be general agreement that use of biscuit joinery would add strength and precision? Would Titebond II be a satisfactory glue?

A couple other factors to consider:

First. The entire tabletop will have liberal initial applications of an Ikea-recommended mineral oil, followed by maintenance applications, all of which protect against moisture/stains in use. Does anyone think Titebond II would have a problem with this, over time?

Second. The completed re-sized tabletop will be attached to a slightly smaller piece of quality plywood, for purposes of strength and to help serve as an attachment base for the wall attachment (at the wall, large angle-iron, screws + wall lag screws) and at the outer-end single leg. I'm thinking that 1/4" ply might be thick enough to provide adequate stability/attachment without overly increasing the thickness of the tabletop. I don't want to overbuild the thickness. Also, might it be better to just screw the ply to the tabletop underside rather than glue it?

Any comments/suggestions are welcome. And thank you!

Don

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, you can make the counter wider with your plan.

No, biscuits would not make the joint any stronger. A glued butt joint which 1 1/2" x 48" is very strong. If it is properly made, the surrounding wood will break before the glue will. Think about it. The whole rest of the table top is held together with glued butt joints, and it isn't coming apart, is it?

Titebond II is a good choice. It is quite water-resistant, and will work well in a table top. It will not be bothered by oil.

You should not firmly attach the lumber top to plywood. The lumber is going to expand and shrink cross-grain in an annual cycle, responding to changes in the atmospheric humidity. The plywood's dimensions will not change. Gluing the lumber to the plywood is likely to cause the table to cup.

I don't understand why you're considering the ply anyhow. Why not just screw your angle irons and such directly into the oak? An inch and a half of oak is much sturdier than quarter-inch ply.

[David DeCristoforo]

What Jamie said but why do you feel it necessary to rip the top in half? If it's all "matching" oak, why not simply add the extra width to one edge?

[Don Hein]

The additional width can't be easily added on either edge because all the "factory" edges have a radius. Also, ripping in half will be much easier for me since I have a "smallish" saw (Bosch 4100-09). Finally, it will be easier for me to run two smaller halves on the jointer than one big piece, again due to weight/handing issues. Because of arthritic joint damage, I'm always looking for ways to minimize weight/handling problems.

Thanks for all the input; it helps a lot.

Don

[Matt Meiser]

Are you sure its solid? I read a post on here a while back where someone found that an Ikea top they bought had a particle board core. Just asking before you get a nasty surprise!

Biscuits won't add strength, but it might be worth using them to help you get everything aligned. I agree with the others on the ply as I don't see it providing any benefit. Make sure you slot the holes in the angle iron to allow for wood movement too.