Framing Hammer Questions

["Jacob Robinson"]

I am looking to get a new framing hammer probably a 22oz.or 24oz.

I am not real familiar with what the different features mean, but my dad tells me you can't go wrong with an eastwing, but how about the brand "Dead-On"

Also, what is the difference between a milled face and smooth face, (other than one is milled and the other is not) what are the disadvantages/advantages

Here is a link to what I think is a pretty good deal when I compare to the prices on other sites.

(I've always been a sucker for neat looking things and this one looks like I'm swinging a hatchet)

[Scott Myers]

That one on E-Bay looks similar to my hammer. Mine too has the "milled" face, which sort of looks like a waffle pattern and help you not slip off the nail head if you hit off-center, at least in theory. I think most framing hammers are this way, at least the ones I see most of the time. In framing, you don't care if you emboss the wood with that pattern. Mine too probably has a hickory handle and it is shaped just like the photo on E-Bay. I can't tell you what brand mine is anymore, as it is too worn. The only difference between mine and the one in the photo is mine has a straighter, longer claw on it.

The choice in hammers is personal, like any hand tool. You have to put your hand on the handle and make sure it fits your hand, that is why there are so many different handle shapes and sizes. So make sure it fits you well. You can't do this off of E-Bay.

The other thing that is extremely important is how the head is attached to the handle. There are good ways of doing this and cheap ways of doing this. I like to see the wedge of wood (or hard plastic) running along the long axis of the head holding the head on. Then there should be some sort of metal driven into that, often a couple of round rings, whic his what mine has. This insures the head will stay on tight for many, many years. My hammer is probably in excess of 20 years old. The milled face is pretty worn at this point, but it still works just fine.

There is one weird thing about my framing hammer I have never liked. It rings with a very high pitched sound when you strike a nail. I generally am wearing ear plugs when hammering, so its not a big deal. But still, I wish it didn't do that. None of my other hammers do.

Just don't forget the old adage, "You get what you pay for". I have fogotten that on a number of occassions and ended up buying a tool twice, if you know what I mean.

[Jeff Duncan]

Depends on what your actual use is going to be. In the old days if you were looking for a framing hammer it was going to be used for framing, that's pretty obvious to everyone right? These days nail guns do all the work so the framing hammer is left in the holster more often.
Anyway the milled face is to keep the hammer from glancing off the nail heads. Usually the rough guys buy them with the milled faces. The smooth faces are generally more for finish work.
For framing the more weight the better as you can sink mails with less swings. Of course if your not used to the extra weight they can really leave your forearms kinda sore.
I've got 2 Estwings', a milled face framer, (don't ask me the last time I used that one) and a smooth faced which I think may be a 16oz which also doesn't get a lot of use, mostly rough stuff. I do like their hammers but it's more a personal choice of what fits you, then one being better than another. In the shop which is generally the finer work, I prefer a traditional wood handled 16 oz. claw hammer. Go to your local hardware store and pick up a couple hammers to see which one fits you best. I wouldn't recommend buying via the net as I'd want to 'feel' the hammer first. And if your not going to be actually framing houses with it, you may want to reconsider and get something a bit lighter.
good luck,
JeffD

["Jacob Robinson"]

You both ahve very good suggestions. I am getting ready to put up a pole barn and those 20d spiral nails are a little big for a 14 oz. stanley claw hammer, so that is why I'm looking for a new one.

My plan was to go to one of the box store and "try on" a couple before I made a decision. I'm pretty sure H.D. carries "Dead-On"

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I agree with your Dad, and Jeff and Scotts advice to try it before you buy it. Estwing may not be the newest looking hammer on the block, but its what I use. Framing is truly the realm of air nailers though, so make sure you buy a hammer that matches your use.

[David G Baker]

Estwing is the only brand I will buy. They have a large assortment of choices to match any nailing need. There are some new types of hammers on the market if you want to pay the money, for example Dalluge 16 ounce Titanium Hammer sells for $150. I just saw this in the latest Popular Mechanics magazine.
For framing I use either Senco or Paslode pneumatic nailers and a 24oz Estwing for any hand nailing requirements.
Surprisingly a very handy hammer is the small 9oz Estwing, I use this for a lot of my lighter work.
I have quite a few Estwing hammers, from the 9oz lightweight to the 5 pound sledge.

[Paul Greathouse]

I used to do alot of remodeling jobs which included everything from framing to trimwork. A long time ago I bought an Eastwing 20oz with smooth face and ripping claw (straight claw). I prefer it over any other hammer I have ever handled. It just has that perfect feel in my hand.

If your going to be driving 20d spiral nails the larger framer would probably be best. Whenever I have large nails/spikes to drive I sometimes use my little 4lb. sledge hammer. It drives them fast but it will wear your arm out after a while.

[CPeter James]

I agree with Paul. [I] have two Estwings, a 20oz straight claw smooth faced framer and a 16 oz curvered claw with the leather handle. The 20oz is my choice for almost everything.

CPeter

[Dan Clark]

I agree with the other folks here - handle it before you buy it.

I have several nailers including a Hitachi "Alien" framing nailer and two palm nailers for joist hangers and such. So, I don't pick up a hammer much. When I do use a framing hammer, I reach for my Japanese Dogyu 22oz Checker Face Hammer (http://japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=01.511.385&dep t_id=12905). Unlike American hammers, the sides of the head are milled to hit nails sideways and the claws actually work for removing nails.

That said, if you're going to be hammering in a lot of those 20D spirals, you may want to consider a palm nailer. I have a PC standard and a Grip-Rite mini palm nailer. I hate the PC and love the mini Grip-Rite. The mini is too small for your application, but a Grip-Rite standard or other quality palm nail may save you a lot of effort.

Good luck and regards,

Dan.

Here's a pic of my hammer:
http://japanwoodworker.com/assets/images/product/JapanWoodworker/01.511.385.jpg

[Radek Kowalski]

For framing hammers, you can't beat Stiletto Hammers. They last for ever, your 24oz hammer will only weigh 14oz. They are a pleasure to use. Get a Titanium hammer. The hickory handle is nice, but they can break. Get either the poly fiberglass or the full titanium, and they will out last you. If you are truely only doing framing with this hammer, get the waffle. If you want to hit or tap anything into place in the later stages of a project, the waffle is not the best.

Hope this helps.

Radek

[Jeff Todd]

stiletto's are nice.. but i have actually seen a few of them break. they are nice to swing though.. estwings are good too. but if you are trying to pry a nail out by pushing the hammer sideways (happens some times.) you will break the hammer..I have broken about 3 of them like that. Now my buddy and I (both been framing for about 11 years) have Stanley fatmax hammers with strike plates on them.. I know lowes is the only place around here that sells them. they are nice because unlike the estwing they have a nail holder on the head that gets used ALOT after you have it. the dead on's @ 50$ are a waste and they (as waell as some stilettos make the ping sound while hitting them. which can sometimes be fixed by hitting a chisel between the claws


JT

[William OConnell]

I like many
Heres a 28 oz. Vaughn rig axe. Thats what I use for pole barn construction or timber framing.
I also own estwings and it is the choice of most framers up here.
http://www.indianisland.us/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=725&g2_serialNumber=2

[Dustin Thompson]

If you like wooden handles check out the Douglas hammers. My finish hammer is a Douglas, and I have a larger Douglas for my framer. I love them both. I have never tried the stilletos but have heard they are the cats pajamas.

http://www.douglastool.com/

Good luck,

Dustin

[Matt Ocel]

I have been framing for over twenty years. This is what I can offer from my personal experience.

1) I started with the 22oz estwing. I thought that the with the steel handle it would last a life time. Its at the bottom of a lake now. Gave me carpel tunnel. The steel handle transmits all the vibration to your hand.

2) I got a Fat Max, currently I use that as a paper weight. Its way to heavy.

3) Milled or smooth face. Depends on how good you are with a hammer, how often you hand drive, and what kind of fasteners are you driving. If you are a good nail striker, I would use a smooth face. If your a good striker, but you drive a lot of pole barns spikes, well then I would use a milled face.
If you are a serious framer, start with a milled face, so you can experience the pleasure of hitting your thumb on a brisk winter morn.:D

4) After years of searching for the right hammer for me, I absolutely reccomend the Stilletto brand.
I have both the wood handle titanium and the T Bone 15 titanium.
The wood handle is a god send for my wrist. The only thing I can say is you have to try one and you will know what I mean. The down side is, Don't let me catch you pulling nails with it or I'll have to fine ya. LOL.
The T bone 15 is awsome as well, a bit heavier, but titanium from top to bottom, very little vibration, excellent nail puller, AND it has an interchangeable face, so you can easily switch from smooth to milled face in seconds.
I might add if on a budget, Vaughn makes a decent fiberglass handle framing hammer.

Just my .02.

Ok Ok my .03.:D

[Jason White]

I have 4 or 5 different types of framing hammers, including an expensive "Douglas" square-head and one of those ridiculous 23-oz "California" framing hammers (think of a sledge-hammer that you can carry in you tool belt).

I always end up reaching for the Vaughn "999." Great balance and just enough weight for me to sink a 16d spike in 4 or 5 licks (don't laugh, I don't frame for a living).

I have both the waffle-face and smooth face. Most of the time, I only use the smooth because I go between framing and nailing on trim boards enough that switching hammers becomes a pain.

Jason




I am looking to get a new framing hammer probably a 22oz.or 24oz.

I am not real familiar with what the different features mean, but my dad tells me you can't go wrong with an eastwing, but how about the brand "Dead-On"

Also, what is the difference between a milled face and smooth face, (other than one is milled and the other is not) what are the disadvantages/advantages

Here is a link to what I think is a pretty good deal when I compare to the prices on other sites.

(I've always been a sucker for neat looking things and this one looks like I'm swinging a hatchet)

[Wayne Cannon]

What? No one pitching titanium hammers, or re-handling with a short axe handle?