.001 out of paralell for new G1023sl table saw - adjust it?

[Sean Rainaldi]

Hi.

I received my new Grizzly 1023SL two weeks ago and just received my woodpeckers saw gauge today, so I just checked parallel.

I measured for the left miter slot about a .001 variance in parallel, back of the blade (away from front of TS) pinches toward the fence by .001.

For the right miter slot, I measured a .0015 dip at center of blade, but strangely at front and back of blade, it pretty much zeros out.

I checked the arbor run out via the right miter slot, and the most I could measure accurately while turning the arbor was about .0005 run out. When sliding the gauge across the stationary arbor I could not see much movement at all with the needle.

Sound OK? Or should I pop the top and start fiddling with the arbor - trunion adjustment? Is that .001 pinch toward fence a worry?

I have not checked fence yet, have not installed it, still waiting to receive the Incra fence.

I'm using a Forrest Hi-AT 1/8" kerf blade.

I'm wondering if the dip - out of parallel is caused by tightening the arbor too tight? Or maybe it's just the way the blade is manufactured?

[Dan Friedrichs]

For some perspective, a human hair is 0.004" diameter. If you touched the trunions, you'd never again get it to within 0.001". Leave it alone.

It seems silly to attempt such accuracy with wood. It's going to expand and contract and get sanded, etc, etc.

Think about it - how often do you measure anything to more than 1/64"? Your "error" is about 16 times smaller than that.

[David Romano]

What Dan said. The errors you are measuring are within the accuracy and repeatability of the dial indicator and/or feeler gauges that you are using. What you are reporting is really that the alignment is perfect according to your tools.

For a more relevant test, try cross-cutting a 1x1 inch piece of wood, several inches, long with the miter gauge. After the front of the blade cuts it, continue pushing all the way through. As it passes the back of the blade, listen for the blade's teeth touching it. If they do touch but there is not any visible scoring marks left on the piece, the alignment is as good as it needs to be. You can perform a similar test with the rip fence alignment

David

[Bruce Page]

I'd send it back...:rolleyes:

[Lee Schierer]

It's terrible, I'll take it off your hands and pay the freight to ship it to my house so it won't cutter up your shop.

.001 is fine unless you start making swiss watch parts. How parallel was your fence to the miter slot?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I wouldn't touch it. use it a while, and if you really think it's causing problems then you might consider it....

I'd offer to take it off your hands for you, but I see Lee has already kindly made the same offer... :)

[Chip Lindley]

I echo the sentiments of these contributors. .001" is as good as it gets!! Don't mess with a thing.

Mark your arbor and the blade with a pencil as a reference point. Try rotating your Forrest blade by hand against the dial indicator a full turn. Indicate the blade just beneath the gullets for a smooth path. This will give you the approximate total runout of your saw blade. Probably less than .005". Try remounting the blade 90 degrees from its reference point and take a reading. Mount it again turned another 90 degrees. And then a third time turned 90 deg. Find the point with least runout and mark the blade against the arbor. Mount at this point each time for minimum runout.

As for your rip fence, it can be adjusted to give a few thousands clearance at the back of the blade to prevent binding. If your test cuts are smooth without burning or binding, keep everything as is! Enjoy your new tablesaw!!

If it ain't Broke, Don't Fix it !!

[Sean Rainaldi]

Haha I thought you guys would say that! I just wanted to appear neutral to see if anyone disagreed or see if I was missing something. Sounds like I got a good one I think it's a keeper!

[Sean Rainaldi]

It's terrible, I'll take it off your hands and pay the freight to ship it to my house so it won't cutter up your shop.

.001 is fine unless you start making swiss watch parts. How parallel was your fence to the miter slot?

Don't have the fence yet. I'm not gong to install/use the shop fox that came with it, I ordered an Incra fence and miter gauge and it has not shown up yet. It's frustrating, I have this great saw and I can't use it until I get the incra. Shre looks pretty in my garage though, all buffed up with T9.

[Howard Acheson]

Typically, 0.003" is consided within tolerence. That said, I generally shoot for 0.002" or less for both blade to slot and fence to slot.

[Dave Lehnert]

When I started woodworking I was happy to get anything within 3/4":D

[M Toupin]

PLace it on the ground and step away from the dial indicator...

[John Grossi]

Sean, I've got the same saw and got very similar numbers as you did. As for the Shop Fox, I know it doesn't have the name behind it, but it is a very useful fence, and can be adjusted dead on to your blade. Enjoy

[scott spencer]

Hi.

...For the right miter slot, I measured a .0015 dip at center of blade, but strangely at front and back of blade, it pretty much zeros out. ...I'm wondering if the dip - out of parallel is caused by tightening the arbor too tight?

... I'm using a Forrest Hi-AT 1/8" kerf blade.



Overtightened arbor nut was my first thought when I read that. The direction of rotation is self tightening so you only need to snug it just a bit.

Your Forrest blade should be an extremely clean cutting blade for crosscuts and sheetgoods but it's a task specific blade so you'll also want a ripper and/or general purpose blade for heavy ripping and general use. It'll likely burn ripping anything much over 3/4", plus will wear prematurely if you use for general purpose work. Depending on what you cut, the 30T WWII (http://www1.epinions.com/review/Forrest_WW10307100_Woodworker_Ii_10_30_Tooth_5_8_A rbor_3_32_Kerf_Circular_Saw_Blade/content_411771899524) would be an excellent compliment if rotating between two blades. If you plan to get more blades, then a 20-24T ripper and a 40T-60T for general use would be logical choices. Forrest, Freud Premier & Industrial, Infinity (http://www1.epinions.com/review/Infinity_Super_General_10_40_Tooth_General_Purpose _Blade_epi/content_420337454724), Ridge Carbide (http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=51) are all excellent choices IMO.

When you install your fence, it's a good idea to adjust in a bit of "toe out" to ensure that binding doesn't occur. About 0.003" is what is typically recommended (~ twice the thickness of a dollar bill...a $5 bill if you're well off, $100 if you're rich! :D).

BTW - Did you know there's now an aftermarket riving knife available for the 1023SL? It's called the "****" (Bold On Ripping Knife) made by Bob Ross from Walnutacreswoodworking (http://www.walnutacrewoodworking.com/Online_Store.php).

[Scott Myers]

Why, I shoot for .0005". It shouldn't take you more than 2 days of bumping things, adding shims, taking out shims, bumping some more to get both the 90 degree and 45 degree blade angles to within .0005". I'd just throw out that saw and get another one if you can't get there. :rolleyes:

Sorry, I just had to put a jab in to. Couldn't resist. Everyone is right, don't mess with it as .001 is excellent. Sounds like you've got a saw that was spot on right out of the box! I don't think most are that lucky. Seriously, my last one was so messed up by the trucking company, that I had to end up sending it back! ( A long and sordid story, but it was quite the education on saw adjustments. The trucking company admitted dropping it finally. ) By the time a saw gets done bouncing all over from its trip on the truck, things are often off a bit, although not too bad usually. But yours held its factory adjustments. Good for you! Now get that fence on and get to cutting wood!