Possible router table tops & inserts

[Mike Hopkins]

I have attached a couple of pictures and wondered if I could use these table tops as router table tops, especially the white table top? They look to be about 3/4" particle board with bracing. Also if I can use them should I somehow add additional bracing such as wood strips or angle iron? I have used a 1.5 HP router before in a table and intend to make or buy a table for a 3.25HP and 2.25HP router. If I do use these tops, as they are just lying around my shop, should I use the smaller router for the table as the 3/4" particle board may not have sufficient strength for a bigger beast? On another topic I have attached pictures of a set of three cutting boards that I picked up from BJ's for $15. They seem strong and would a piece make a good insert to mount to the router? Also as a final question as the bottom of the white table does not have laminate, to prevent possible moisture penetration what would you think of my spraying that insulating expanding foam on the surface. I know it is a wild and probably dumb idea, but it is just a thought as there are so many people here with good ideas.

[Robert foster]

Mike:
I don't know about using those for tables but I would not use the cutting board for router plates. I have found that they give under the weight of a router. I prefer the 1/4" aluminum plates.
Bob

[Art Moore]

Mike,

3/4, properly stiffened, will work for a 2.25 hp router. Up until my last build, I used 3/4 with both the Ryobi RE180 and Ridgid R2900 routers. I've just completed building a new tablesaw workstation with a 1-1/2 inch thick router extension, just in case I want to add one of the "monster" routers in the future.

For router mounting, I've previously tried direct-to-table mounting, 1/4 hardboard, and the 3/8 "Deluxe" insert from RTD. Direct-to-table didn't give me enough range for the bit height. 1/4 hardboard (6-1/2 x 6-1/2 inches, just enough to drop the router in with the handles removed) worked, but didn't give me the convenience of insert rings. The 3/8 "Deluxe" plate was a disaster; that thing will not stay level! For my latest table, I bit the bullet and ordered one of the 3/8 aluminum plates from Woodpecker... and now I see why they command the price they do. If you can possibly afford it, that's the only way I'd go.

As far as your last question, 3 or 4 coats of wipe-on poly would give you all the moisture-proofing you'd need on that table.

Just my .05 (adjusted for inflation) :),

Art

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Robert on the cutting boards...they are not going to be a good idea for your inserts.

[Heather Thompson]

Mike,

I agree with all about the cutting board idea, not good, at least get a phenolic plate. I bought a factory made router top that came with a phenolic top, I never used it as I bought a router lift with an aluminum plate. Personally I have recently purchased a 1" thick slab of phenolic that I am using on my tablesaw as the right wing with provisions for the lift, a router table needs to be very flat to do good work.

Heather