Pore-o-pac

[Larry Browning]

I bought some grain filler from Woodcraft called Pore-o-Pac withour realizing it called to be thinned with Pore-o-pac reducer. For those of you who have used this product, can I thin this with something else? Or, maybe I can just use it without thinning. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I bought this while on a business trip last week and there here is not a Woodcraft store within 150 miles of me.
Aparently I wasn't paying too close attention to the can and didn't realize they make 2 versions of Pore-o-pac. Water based, and the one I got, which is not water based. The labels look almost identical and I picked the wrong one.

[Dave Laird in NM]

It can be thinned with Naptha up to 25%.

Dave Laird
Woodworker's Supply Pro Sales
D & N Specialties

[Larry Browning]

It can be thinned with Naptha up to 25%.

Dave Laird
Woodworker's Supply Pro Sales
D & N Specialties

Naptha, Cool! I even have some of that!

[Steve Schoene]

The oil based will give you some extra working time so you can get most of the excess scraped/wiped off instead of the large amount of sanding you usually need with waterbased. I usually thin to the consistence of extra heavy cream, using naptha, and apply using a chip brush.

You can tint it with either Japan colors or with artists oil paint.

I'd give it considerably more time for curing than the directions call for. Three or four days, at least, assuming temps around 70°.

[Larry Browning]

The oil based will give you some extra working time so you can get most of the excess scraped/wiped off instead of the large amount of sanding you usually need with waterbased. I usually thin to the consistence of extra heavy cream, using naptha, and apply using a chip brush.

You can tint it with either Japan colors or with artists oil paint.

I'd give it considerably more time for curing than the directions call for. Three or four days, at least, assuming temps around 70°.

Thanks for the tips! I have never use any kind of grain filler before, so any help I get is greatly appreciated! I that that tonight I will practice this on some scraps. I will let you know how I do.

[Bill Rogers]

On another site I read the same thing: that Pore-O-Pac can be reduced with Naptha (25% by volume). They also said that the drying time can be extended by adding either Paint Thinner or Mineral Spirits, however they gave no indication of how much was to be added. Does anyone have an "educated guess" on how much PT or MS to use?

Bill

[Scott Holmes]

Same 25%.

Naptha is just a thinner like MS, that evaporates faster.

As for tips - I like the heavy cream consistancy and a squegee diagonally across the grain to fill the wood pores.

[Bill Rogers]

So do you add mineral spirits in addition to the Naptha if you want a slower drying time or do you use the mineral spirits in place of the Naptha?

Bill

[Scott Holmes]

MS in place of naptha. You are substituting one thinner for another.

Depending on the filler; you may be able to use turpinetine Which is slower to evaporate than MS.

[Bill Rogers]

MS in place of naptha. You are substituting one thinner for another.

Depending on the filler; you may be able to use turpinetine Which is slower to evaporate than MS.


What fillers work with turpentine?

Bill

[Scott Holmes]

I would suggest you try a small amount and see if it dries hard. IF it does you are good to go...

Why would you want it to dry so slowly? Using a squeegee, even a diningroom table should not take more than 5 mins to fill.

[Pete McMahon]

I would suggest you try a small amount and see if it dries hard. IF it does you are good to go...

Why would you want it to dry so slowly? Using a squeegee, even a diningroom table should not take more than 5 mins to fill.

J,
You can fill a dining table in 5 minutes? Does that include wiping the excess from the surface and having it ready to go?

[Scott Holmes]

"Using a squeegee" are the key words here. Mix the filler like heavy cream and fill at 45 degrees to the grain.

Ready to go? not quite...you'll need to let it dry overnight and then sand it.

It should be filled. Red oak may need another fill session.

[Bill Rogers]

Scott,

I have not worked with this material before and I just don't want to mess up the red oak dining room table that I am making for my daughter!! I tried it on a small sample this morning and it wasn't too difficult to work with! Thanks for your advice.

Bill

[Pete McMahon]

"Using a squeegee" are the key words here. Mix the filler like heavy cream and fill at 45 degrees to the grain.

Ready to go? not quite...you'll need to let it dry overnight and then sand it.

It should be filled. Red oak may need another fill session.

J,
I understand "using a squeegee". My point of "ready to go" was the subsequent wiping of the filled surface. Even with a squeegee there is excess left behind. Since it's the last thing done before finishing in my schedule, it's reasonable to take a bit of time to wipe all excess from the surface. You know what those grey patches look like if you're not careful.
I don't have sand afterwards either, maybe just an occasional burnish here and there with the back of my sandpaper. It does take me a little more than 5 minutes for a table top.