Help with Jointer Knives (and gloat)

[Derek Tuchscherer]

I just recently picked up a near mint Rockwell 37-220 being sold by someone who had received it in a will. I picked it up for $150, and as I said it is nearly mint:D. After ginving it the once over and a couple test runs it is evident that the knives need to be sharpened. Now this model does not have jack screws, so does anyone know the proper procedure for removal and re-installation of the knives as well as adjusting the height? As this is my first jointer any and ALL tips, hints, advice are more than welcome!

[Bill White]

Then shim with brass shim stock or even aluminum foil.
Nice catch by the way.
Bill

I really do know how to spell. Sorry

[Steve Sawyer]

First, let me make the obligatory "no pics, didn't happen" observation.

There are some good videos and articles around on the web on setting jointer knives.

I don't know how yours are set up, but one technique uses an ice pick or a long thin awl to act in place of jack screws to lift the ends of the knives. This together with a good straightedge or a dial-indicator will usually do the trick. Google the topic and you're bound to come up with a few hits. It's not hard at all, just takes some time, and after you've done it once it's no biggie.

One piece of advice I can offer, is that if there is no place to get the tip of the ice pick under the ends of the knives, use your bench grinder or a Dremel tool or anything that can grind a little wedge off of the corners that sit down in the head. This will give the awl or ice pick a point to get under and support the knives.

[Derek Tuchscherer]

Thanks Steve, that's something that I wouldn't have thought of, but makes sense to me. This is not the one I bought but one that is almost identical. I am missing the knife guard, and don't have dust collection set up yet, but other than those facts this is the one I have.

100124

[Simon Dupay]

see Bob Vaughan's video on OWWM.com you may also find a manual for your jointer.

[Tom Adger]

Derek,

Lets go back to the sharpening part. I treat my jointer and planer knives as just longer chisels. First, and very important, flatten the backs. Take a very flat piece of wood, preferably a hardwood, take a piece of double sided tape, stick the blades on,(why not do all three at one time) and flatten the backs on progressive grits of sandpaper that is put on something very flat, such as plate glass. Go thru the grits to a very fine grade. This is some work, but you only have to do it the first time. Next you are going to have to make a jig for holding the blade, cut on a miter to match the original angle. More work, but once done, you have it. Then go thru the sharpening process, I use scary sharp up to about 220 or 320 grit, then a 1000/6000 combination water stone to finish the back and bevel. Most of the work is a first time around thing. You will be pleased with the results. One last thing: I rarely take more than 1/64" off on any jointer pass. Often less. Does a better job, and is easier on the knives.

[Peter Stahl]

I just recently picked up a near mint Rockwell 37-220 being sold by someone who had received it in a will. I picked it up for $150, and as I said it is nearly mint:D. After ginving it the once over and a couple test runs it is evident that the knives need to be sharpened. Now this model does not have jack screws, so does anyone know the proper procedure for removal and re-installation of the knives as well as adjusting the height? As this is my first jointer any and ALL tips, hints, advice are more than welcome!

You need a blade setting jig and if you don't have springs or jack screws the one in the attached picture would work well. I have a 6" grizzly and it came with a jig and the springs keep the knives against the jig while you tighten the screws. I bought new knives but it's been so long I don't remember when it was or where I got them from.

[Peter Stahl]

This site might help you too.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/jointerknives1.htm

[Chip Lindley]

Then shim with brass shim stock or even aluminum foil.
Nice catch by the way.
Bill

I really do know how to spell. Sorry
You got a great deal Derek! I used this jointer for many years; it's a great 6" jointer! Gave $170 for mine I think! Its only drawback is NO JACK SCREWS! I have never had a set of knives for this jointer which reached to the bottom of the jib slot, so shimming was not an option for me.

I sharpen the knives in a beveled hardwood fixture held under a cup wheel in my drill press, and hone off the wire edge. The ice pick idea is a tried and true one. Knives are reinstalled one at a time and the jib screws tightened enough so knives are held in place, but can be moved up with the ice pick or pushed down with a wood block.

A set of knives can be installed "by feel" referencing the surface of the outfeed table. A block of hardwood is held to the outfeed and the knives are set to only graze the underside at each end. A "feel" can be developed to discern if one knife is higher than the rest. If so, tap it down ever so gently with the block. I can reinstall a set of knives in about 30 min. Be sure to go around and retighten each set of gib screws after all knives are installed. This is same premise as the Magna-Set jig. Mine is low-tech but it WORKS.

This may not be THE method of the 21st Century, but I got glass-smooth cuts with the old Rockwell. Enjoy Yours !!

[Jacob Reverb]

This is not the one I bought but one that is almost identical. I am missing the knife guard

I would be darned careful about using it (don't think I would use it at all without the guard, to tell the truth)...jointers can be ugly.

[Verne Mattson]

Check out Bob Vaughan's knife setting video. As far as sharpening the knives, I have a Makita sharpener, and it works great for jointer and planer knives.

Good luck. Here's a link to the video...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-572604587960322121

[Bob Vallaster]

This link goes to the Delta site's illustrated parts breakdown: http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentViewPDF.aspx?productid=71513&typeId=16143&documentId=35317

I does not show the knife lifting springs which are under each blade on my jointer (also mentioned in the Joe Woodworker site linked). I'd still hold out the possibility (probability) yours has them. They are the dickens to find once they escape so...be very careful as you disassemble. Replacements can be made with a spring from a dead ball-point pen (click type).

I have resorted to something like the awl method to break knives free, but the light-duty springs are a boon when adjusting the blades.

[David Werkheiser]

I had the same jointer bought used 15 yrs. ago as my first jointer. It's a well made compact with a strong end mt. fence, which is also it's downfall. As the fence is moved to the left, the blades become exposed on the back side. I have a habit of curling my fingers around fences and the blades almost got me. I have seen a few of the Deltas like yours that have a back blade guard the same as the front.
You might want to look into "Esta disp. knives, they have a newer style that fits into the blade groves and has a lip that overhangs the cutter head, you don't need springs or jack screws.
DavidW