Festool - TS55 or TS75 and why

[Brian Clevenger]

The title pretty much sums it up. Which one would you buy and why? I might make the trip today, but just can't decide which one.

[Randal Stevenson]

Is there really any reason not to get the larger one to begin with? Seems I read a lot of people talk about getting the larger size later, only because they didn't think they could afford it to begin with. Look at your lists of projects planned for now, and ones you would like to attempt in the future, then look at your budget, let those be more of your guides.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I have the TS55EQ.

I'm 25(yes)/75(no) about if I'd ever go with the 75/should have gone with it in the first place.
Probably no.

[Dan Lautner]

I have both and use them often. For sheet stuff I grab the 55 every time. It is more compact, lighter and has plenty of power for all sheet material. For straight lining 8/4 hardwood or 2X material, the 55 is underpowered and just lacks the cutting depth for full 2" cuts. The 55 is an essential tool I would never be without. The 75 is a luxury that is very nice to have. You can straight line up to 1 7/8 stock with the 55 but it is underpowered and slow.

Dan

[John Morrison60]

Consider your usage.
I have the TS55 since I valued it's lightness and
needed it mainly for first cuts on sheet goods.
I have since found that it is accurate enough for more than first cuts,
and it's dust control is enticing to use more frequently.

My most appreciated Festool.

Good Luck
John

[Eric DeSilva]

I use my tracksaw almost exclusively for breaking down sheet goods. For that, like others have said, the 55 is quite sufficient power-wise and its nice & light.

[William OConnell]

I have the older bigger festool. I think its the 65
I hear alot of people concerned about the weight but frankly its not really that heavy, and does its work gliding on a track.
I bought the larger one for the increased depth of cut. I'm glad I did in my personal circumstance, others needs may vary.

[Jim Becker]

I went with the 55 and couldn't been happier. There is only one time in a couple of years that I could have used the extra depth and that was just for a special cut when I was installing the shoulder vice on my bench. Otherwise, I very rarely use more than 3/4"-1" of depth. The lighter saw is easier to handle for me, too. That said, one should consider "what" they will be using the saw for and buy accordingly. Both size saws are great.

[Scott Rollins]

I am in the same situation. I am leaning toward the 75 for straight line rips in hardwood as it would be my primary application. Currently I straight line rip with a jig on the tablesaw then I go to the jointer to finish the job.

[Jason White]

The bigger the wood, the bigger the saw.

I have the TS55 and it's fine for what I use it for, which is mostly sizing plywood for cabinets.

Jason




The title pretty much sums it up. Which one would you buy and why? I might make the trip today, but just can't decide which one.

[Norm St.Onge]

Like everyone else; the 55 for breaking down sheet goods is great. But, I also do alot doors for older homes. The 55 is 'ok' for interior doors up to 1-3/8 thk, anything thicker and the 55 bogs down and struggles. Old growth doors in some of the 200 yr old houses I work in? The 55 struggles.

-Norm

[Brian Clevenger]

Lately, I've been doing nothing but built-ins and book cases. I've had an EZ Smart system with a Porter Cable 325mag, and have been less than satisfied. I'm looking to sell of the EZ Smart parts, but I may keep the PC325.

One of my real complaints with EZ was the loss of depth of cut.

I'd like to be able to gang rip at least two sheets of 3/4" ply. Three sheets would be awesome, but not necessary.

If I got the ts75, could it replace my PC325 when it comes to framing and dimentional jobs; or would I find myself wishing I still had it at times. If I were to get the ts55, the PC would have to stay.

[Vinny Miseo]

I have only tried it a couple of times, but cutting a 2x4 with the TS55 is harder than a regular worm drive/circular saw because of the plunge action. Maybe I dont have the correct technique down for cutting 2x material, but you cant hold the saw in one hand, the stud in the other and cut.

[Kevin Johnson]

Neither saw is any good fro framing. They don't work well off the rail. Your PC is for that. I have the TS55. I would like to have a 75 because it would work well ripping a straight line on rough lumber. If you want to cut multiple sheets of ply, you want the 75.

[Ken Lustgarten]

Lately, I've been doing nothing but built-ins and book cases. I've had an EZ Smart system with a Porter Cable 325mag, and have been less than satisfied. I'm looking to sell of the EZ Smart parts, but I may keep the PC325.

One of my real complaints with EZ was the loss of depth of cut.

I'd like to be able to gang rip at least two sheets of 3/4" ply. Three sheets would be awesome, but not necessary.

If I got the ts75, could it replace my PC325 when it comes to framing and dimentional jobs; or would I find myself wishing I still had it at times. If I were to get the ts55, the PC would have to stay.


You do not have to sell your EZ to get more depth of cut. For example a Makita 5008MGA will cost you about $200 and it is a nicer saw then the PC325MAG (I have both of them). The 5008MGA is an 8 1/4" saw that is about the same size and weight as a 7 1/4". You can use 7 1/4", 8 1/4", and 8 1/2" blades on it. This will give you the ability to use cheap blades (a $14 Freud 40 tooth 7 1/4" blade gives 1 5/8" depth on the rail) and also get a 2 1/4" cutting depth on the rail. With this setup you will have more power, locally available blades, can use cheap blades for mdf/partical board, and a thicker rail that does not flex.

[Dan Clark]

Brian,

For framing, something like a Makita Hypoid, or Skil or Bosch Worm drive is the best alternative. I don't think you would be happy with a Festool TS75 (or a TS55) for that purpose. That said, I've cut a lot of 2X lumber with my TS55 on my MFT.

For built ins and bookcases, and cutting sheet goods, the TS55 can't be beat (IMO). It's a tough, powerful little bugger and extremely accurate. With the 48-tooth, fine cut blade (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/blades/fine-48tooth-saw-blade-491952.html) I get glue-up ready cuts.

Using the Standard 12-tooth blade (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/blades/standard-12tooth-saw-blade-487377.html), it cuts almost anything. I've ripped 18' 7/4 Microllam beams with this blade on my TS55. No problemo.

That said, i typically keep a Universal 28-Tooth Saw Blade (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/blades/universal-28tooth-saw-blade-490516.html) on the saw most of the time.

I bought my TS55 before the TS75 came out. Initially I wanted a TS75. I think the TS75 is a fine saw, but it's overkill for most applications. In the rare cases where the TS55 didn't have enough capacity, I've made two cuts with the TS55 or whipped out one on my Japanese pull saws.

The TS55 is one great saw. I highly recommend one. If you get one, make sure that you get a pack of splinter guards (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/splinterguard-5pack-491473.html). I use a splinter guard most of the time to further reduce splinters on the outboard side of the cut. I mark each splinter guard with a blade number. When I change blades, I change splinter guards. (That takes about 30 seconds more.)

A cover plate (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/cover-plate-491750.html) is nice when you want to improve dust collection even more. The only downside of the cover plate is that you can't do bevel cuts with it attached. But installing and deinstalling only takes a few seconds, so it's not a biggie.

Good luck with your decision.

Regards,

Dan.

[Jim Becker]

If I got the ts75, could it replace my PC325 when it comes to framing and dimentional jobs; or would I find myself wishing I still had it at times. If I were to get the ts55, the PC would have to stay.

The TS saws are not really the best choice for non-guided work such as framing. I agree with another poster that sticking with a good worm drive saw for framing is the best choice. Use the TS for the work where it's features and capability shine.

[Jeff Monson]

Jim Becker has given you the best advice, it really depends on your primary use with this saw.

I own a 75, I use it mainly for breaking down sheet goods, 95% of the time, I have needed the extra depth 2 times in the last year and a half, I'm glad I had the option. If you find yourself in my situation go with the 75 and you'll be happy. If you are going to use it for ONLY sheet goods then buy a 55.

Just remember the 75 is quite a bit larger and heavier than a 55.

Either way you will be thrilled with the quality of this saw and the dc is excellent.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

If you are looking to gang rip 3 sheets of plywood, get the 75. That's what I own. It will cut thick and thin but it is a lot heavier. It also lacks the ability to mount the extra blade cover (http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/product_detail.html?sid=d40e5838a99206b96d96918b6d e013b1&pid=491750) for better dust extraction.

Also, the TS75 comes stock with a 36 toothed blade. The TS55 comes stock with a 48 toothed blade. More teeth = finer cuts on plywood cores. You can add a 52 toothed blade to the TS75 but that adds an additional $101. So if you are using the TS 75 for primarily sheet goods, you will need to spend, not $120 more, but more like $220 more when you add the cost of the finer blade. An important point to consider.

My advice to you? Get both! :D

[Chris Padilla]

I have the older 65 and while it is heavier than the 55, I have used the extra depth of cut many times to trim door bottoms and such. It has come in handy.