How to ?'s - Router table coping sled.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
How close to the bit should I plan for?
How many hold downs should I use?
Is there any use for T-track on the sled or fence?
Does using a featherboard in conjunction with the sled create a hazard?
How large/small should I plan for - or - should I just plan on making a few different ones?

TIA - I know these are pretty basic ?'s. I'm in the process of putting together some accessories for the router table & need some direction.

[Eric Roberge]

All the ones that I have seen (i.e. Rockler) do not use the track. From my experience, you do not need to use a feather board as the clamp will hold the stock firm to the sled. One clamp seems to be sufficient for most applications.

[Peter Quinn]

A square block of MDF with a handle (a smaller rectangle of scrap) screwed to it is all I have ever needed for coping on the router. Takes 5 minutes to make from the junk bin, works great, and can be trimmed a number of times to create a new backer as necessary. 8"X12" does most things. Just make sure the fence is in tight to the cutter and the bearing is set flush with the fence. The jigs they sell for hundreds of dollars amuse me. I use a shop made sled on the shaper, but on the router you are just not dealing with that much force.

I don't see a danger in a feather board, but I don't see much value in it for coping either. I love feather boards as hold downs for long edges, but coping usually involves short cross grain cuts. A feather board would be more of a nuisance than anything, possibly even distort the cut a bit. The router is not pushing up, and neither is the wood on a typical cope, so you don't need a feather board pushing down. A straight edge spring board/cutter guard may be of some value for coping if your push block or sled is the same thickness as your stock, otherwise just a cutter guard will suffice.

When I cope on the router, I am the hold down. On the shaper I rely on several #250 toggle clamps on a sled that rides in the miter slot, but the cutters are 5 times bigger and the motor is too.

[James Walters]

I use the coping sled that Infinity Tools sales. I think it's the best on the market.

[J.R. Rutter]

Ditto Peter's simple sled. I put down some sandpaper ~ 60 grit - to help keep parts from wiggling. Remember to trim it back out of the way of any cutting tools when trimming the sled.

[Neal Clayton]

When I cope on the router, I am the hold down.

same, i just use my table saw's miter sled.

i understand having one for a shaper due to the safety factor, but on a router table as long as you're using your fence for a stop, i don't see it being necessary.

[Peter Quinn]

Here is a pic of a coping jig I threw together for a sash set. If you find yourself making narrow muntins for glass doors it is better to cope a piece wide enough to make several bars at once, then rip and mold the pieces with a coped push block than to handle such narrow material. You can even glue up the width from thinner stock temporarily for the cope cuts, just leave enough width for the saw kerfs and rejoining as necessary.

For door parts in 3/4" stock I leave off the front fence, but it is needed as a backer in this application as the material was 1 1/8". My shaper jig has a fence that pivots to handle angles from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and an adjustable backer with a t slot routed in the back held on by t bolts that makes for quick backer replacement. It rides in the miter slot, so the fence must be set parallel with the slot, which is easy on the shaper but no joy on my router table. Trying to set the depth on many router table fences while simultaneously setting the fence perfectly parallel with the miter slot is frustrating, and minor adjustments are tricky. Obviously this can be over come with the right fence, but I find it is unnecessary to use a slot guided jig on the router as the cutters diameter is small enough that the opening in the fence presents no real danger.

Note that the 'handle' on this jig, such as it is, has been mounted skewed so that it encourages you to push the jig toward the fence as you push forward. That was intentional, I was not drinking when I assembled it.

[Dewey Torres]

I second Peters idea and will share how I did it. A very similar setup with 1/4 inch mdf and 3/4 plywood scrap. I have never noticed a need for a second hold down but bottom line is try one and you will be able to tell if that will suffice.

I would not recommend using a feather board for this. It will just provide un-wanted resistance with no benefits. The rail bits don't tend to climb unlike the stile bits.

Don't use the miter slot! If you do then you will have to depend on your fence being perfectly parallel. I created my first one that way and never again. This one was dead on with 5 minutes of effort.

Here are some pics of my sled ... again, very simple. One added benifit is the profile you will cut into the backer will be used as a set up for the next time you use it. (see 2ndt pic).

3rd pic shows easy storage on peg board.

Lastly, as you can see I didn't find the need for a handle but that will be your call / comfort level. I jest keep my hand on the opposite side of the clamp.

[jack duren]

On rails we always use the miter slot on the coping sled....

[Jay Brewer]

On rails we always use the miter slot on the coping sled....


Nice three router setup. You build it? If so very well executed.

[jerry nazard]

Jack,

Could we see a bit more of your setup?

-Jerry

[jack duren]

A couple pictures

[Scott Rollins]

Jack-that is awesome. What do you have set up in the other stations? Is it the rail bit then the panel bit?

[jack duren]

Mainly set up to make 5 piece doors. rail,stile and raised panel.

[Dewey Torres]

On rails we always use the miter slot on the coping sled....


Ok Jack,
I'll bite... why do you ALWAYS use the miter on the coping sled?

[jack duren]

Better question...Why wouldnt you?

[Dewey Torres]

Better question...Why wouldnt you?

ahhh...

because when I use mine I can have the fence at any angle I wish. Can you say that?

[jack duren]

Why would I want a precision machine to cut doors at any angle? Why would I want to put extra effort into holding the coping jig against the fence? I'm a production door maker, I dont have time to toy with my machines...

[Dewey Torres]

Why would I want a precision machine to cut doors at any angle? Why would I want to put extra effort into holding the coping jig against the fence? I'm a production door maker, I dont have time to toy with my machines...

Ok Jack...
You are a PRODUCTION door maker... well I am NOT and I will bet neither is Rich.

Really, not trying to create conflict here. Guys like Rich and I will maybe make 20 to 100 doors in our lifetime... (pushing it). Furthermore, the effort to hold a simple jig against a fence pails in comparison to creating doors that are slightly off. There are many fence systems on the market that are designed to marry up parallel to the bit vs. the miter slot.

The only requirement for the operation I suggested is the fence be inline with the bearing of the rail or stile bit (regardless of the angle). I can do that with a steel rule and not worry as to what angle my fence is set at. That allows the "simple guy" to set one end of the fence with a clamp, place the steel rule against the bearing, and then set the opposing side of the fence with a clamp. Perfect set up every time and the limit of the bearing is always going to be as deep a the cutter will penetrate anyway.

[jack duren]

There has been a number of miter or not conversations. This would turn out no different...

[Neal Clayton]

Ok Jack...
You are a PRODUCTION door maker... well I am NOT and I will bet neither is Rich.

Really, not trying to create conflict here. Guys like Rich and I will maybe make 20 to 100 doors in our lifetime... (pushing it). Furthermore, the effort to hold a simple jig against a fence pails in comparison to creating doors that are slightly off. There are many fence systems on the market that are designed to marry up parallel to the bit vs. the miter slot.

The only requirement for the operation I suggested is the fence be inline with the bearing of the rail or stile bit (regardless of the angle). I can do that with a steel rule and not worry as to what angle my fence is set at. That allows the "simple guy" to set one end of the fence with a clamp, place the steel rule against the bearing, and then set the opposing side of the fence with a clamp. Perfect set up every time and the limit of the bearing is always going to be as deep a the cutter will penetrate anyway.

and what happens when you need an angle? something adapted from a miter sled can do so, something that runs on a fence cannot.

[glenn bradley]

I run mine in the miter slot (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=43930&d=1154660657). The fence is not required, it just acts as my dust collection (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=43927&d=1154660551) point.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I made a sled similar to the one above for using in a variety of operations. Initially, I used it for making cheek cuts on tenons, but have used it for half laps and other operations like that. I haven't made any doors, but do not see where it would cause problems if I wanted to. I did put on two hold downs instead of one, and am putting on a handle to make it easier to back up.

Doc

[Dewey Torres]

and what happens when you need an angle? something adapted from a miter sled can do so, something that runs on a fence cannot.

Ok... this will be my last entry on this: Angled shims

I didn't realize I stepped into a mine field on this topic.

Good points of view from both sides. I think I will keep my current setup as I really didn't like the miter. I should have realized that it is ultimately up to what a person feels most comfortable with.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

One added benifit is the profile you will cut into the backer will be used as a set up for the next time you use it. (see 2ndt pic).

That looks like it would work very well. I'll certainly give it a try.
Anything that makes setup quicker/easier is a good thing.

Honetly, I believe both ways have enough merit to at least try.

Thanks to all for the info.

[Paul Heim]

That router table is AWSOME. Are plans for it available?

Paul

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello Paul,
First -welcome to SMC.
2nd - I'm guessing you mean the 3 station table shown above.

What I suggest is starting a new thread and ask for plans/pictures of multi router tables.

There's several members here that have two or more stations in their router tables that they use for dedicated repetitive tasks.

[John Grossi]

I use my router table miter slot. I built a jig that sets my fence parallel to my slot. Took about 30 minutes to make, and can set my fence in 10 seconds. A shop made coping jig (about 1 hour to make) is a great aid when coping. I am not a production shop, however I love the ease and precision I get from these two jigs. By the way, isn't that half the fun of woodworking, making jigs and fixtures that make the actual cut easy and safe to make? John