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View Full Version : Deflection when using 3520B to bore hole



Chris Barnett
10-31-2008, 1:04 PM
Had recently made a few pens and had out-of-round holes with the DP so tried the lathe while I am in process of picking up a used DP. Used a pin chuck to hold the wood for a 7mm brad point bit mounted in tailstock chuck. Initial contact is fine and appears to be in center of wood, but as cutting starts, the bit tip tends to start rotation around the center of the work. The bit starts cutting with the center point, then the two outer edge tips cut, then finally the entire bit. As this occurs, the end of the drill bit is wandering in a circle.

Thought my brand new lathe was out, so I checked the spindle and found the radial runout less than .002 and the face less than .001..the needle on dial micrometer barely fluctuated. Nova2 chuck was .0035 radial and had no means to really measure the jaws, though they seemed reasonable.

To get the chuck down to minimum, I inserted a rubber sink drain washer between the spindle face and the Nova insert, and the chuck runout went to immeasurable...on several trys. Tried the drill again and same results. But am thinking perhaps the rubber insert simply deflected when work was loaded from drill bit...not sure although it was cinched down with the setscrew both times which, and should have prevented deflection.

Tried with a larger brad type bit and same result, although less dramatic. The center starts the cut, then all the remaining edge cuts at once. I would not try this on metal unless I had numerous bits I wanted broken due to the deflection of the bit.

Was thinking perhaps that the axis of the lathe spindle was not in line with the tailstock. Had previously checked the point of the tailstock live center to the center of the spindle and it was right on.

Any ideas or is this common? Believed I could get better results boring with the lathe, but this problem implies the contrary.

Will try a normal bit next, but do not understand since the bit should be cutting through the center of rotation in the spindle....if I see the picture correctly.

Ken Fitzgerald
10-31-2008, 1:14 PM
Chris....try this......extend your quill on the tailstock out about 3" and then start the drill bit. When you retract the quill all the way, the tailstock automatically ejects the live center..or in this case the jacobs chuck. I've noticed even on the live center if the quill isn't out some distance it doesn't center either.

IOW.....by extending the quill...the MT2 is allowed to seat completely.

Chris Barnett
10-31-2008, 3:32 PM
I noticed that Ken, but the taper was fully seated, and thanks for the heads-up.
Noticed that although the runout was minimal, the axial displacement was higher than expected, so I reseated the chuck directly to the spindle face, which seemed to resolve the problem. Might have just been lucky because the next work piece caused the bit to wobble again, although less severe. The one time the bit performed properly, the chuck ran true (by sight) like a metal working machine, so I suppose there is only a setup problem to solve.

Dick Strauss
11-01-2008, 12:44 AM
Chris,
For the chuck to seat firmly, the chuck insert should sit against the spindle shoulder with nothing inserted in between. If not, you will likely get wobble with the chuck because the threads on the spindle and chuck inserts are not really precision machined to prevent runout.

Some other ideas for you to consider...
1)Tailstock Chuck...The tailstock chuck could have a bad MT2 taper allowing the chuck to move. The chuck could also be holding the drill bit off center.
2)Tailstock Shaft...I had a friend that got a 3520 tailstock with a bad MT2 within the tail shaft. PM was very quick to replace it for him.
3)Pin Chuck...The pin chuck could be allowing the piece to move while you are trying to drill, especially if you are talking about pin jaws on a regular chuck. Chucks with pin jaws do not do well holding a piece of wood more than an inch or two away from the jaws IMHO.


Good luck,
Dick