G0513x2 Tension numbers?

[Marcus Ward]

I've got a g0513x2 (awesome saw) running a 3/4" woodslicer (iturra bladerunner .022 band thickness) and I've got my tension set about 5 1/2. I realize it may be different for everyone due to harmonic balances and such but can someone comment on this setting? I'm paranoid I'll overtension it and I can't swing the price for a tension gauge. Thanks.

[joe milana]

I just purchased the same saw a couple days ago and I have experienced a interesting phenomenon. I lower the blade tension then start the saw with the guides backed off. I then start tightening the tension wheel and I eventually get a severe shuttering (or wobbling) of the upper wheel. I then back tension off slowly untill I get blade "flutter". Then I feed in about a quarter turn of tension untill the saw "smoothens" out. I figure this is the sweet spot. I make a few test cuts at max thickness and check the cut with a straight edge for "blade bow". So far so good. My 3/4" blade tensioned out at about 4. I cranked it up to 5 and I got that upper wheel shuttering again so I backed it off. Seems "undertensioned" but cuts just fine. I plan on calling Grizzly to see what they say about the "shuttering" but haven't had a chance yet. Have you experienced this?

[Marcus Ward]

I haven't gotten the wheel shudders at all. That's kind of odd. I run all the guides backed off and crank it up until it stops fluttering and then give it another quarter to half turn and I show about 5 1/2. If I check it with a dial indicator I'm not real sure where to start because the blade sags. If I start tightening at '1' on the gauge and 10" between the clamps on the dial indicator i can crank about .006 which according to Charlie Plesums should be about 18,000 lbs of tension, which should be about right for this blade according to Louis Iturra. So maybe I'm okay. :) It sure cuts nicely. I have a stack of 1/32 strips laying on my desk right now.

[glenn bradley]

What "j" describes is the standard Timberwolf flutter method of setup I always use. As to the numeric settings; I do jot down where the pointer is pointing for each blade on a piece of paper stuck near the saw. I use this as a very general guideline when changing blades from a 3/4" to a 3/8" for example. When a blade of a certain size finally goes south, I cross him off and add the new blade's very general number. As for comparing numbers between saws and hoping they will mean anything (except maybe all the way one way or the other), I wouldn't trust it.

[Peter Quadarella]

I don't try to be very scientific with it. I tension the blades well, preferring to overdo it than to have it not as tight as they should be. I tension them until I can only move the blade a little bit (~1/4") with my finger by pushing it to the side (with a moderate push, I don't really try). As long as it is cutting straight, I am happy.

[joe milana]

Glenn, have you ever experienced the "shuttering" of the upper wheel that I referred to when over tensioning with the guides backed off?



Peter, Why overdo it? Aren't the symptoms of under tensioning obvious, corrected by increasing tension, while the symptoms of over tensioning are premature blade failure?

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, have you ever experienced the "shuttering" of the upper wheel that I referred to when over tensioning with the guides backed off?

No, but I am not a good example. I doubt I have ever over-tensioned a blade. If the saw is well set, I have just never needed super-tension to track well. Now, my "big" saw is a 17" which is not real big. I imagine a 24" or a 30" saw with a large band is a different story, eh?

[Marcus Ward]

Interesting. I can only move my band about 1/8" to the side with a fair push. I would think 1/4" would make it far too lose to resaw. And while I agree every band is different, I'd still like to know where people are running their saws. Only one person has answered my original question, everyone else preferring to tell me I'm barking up the wrong tree, or talk about how they tension their (non G0513x2???) saws.

[Greg Cole]

Morning Marcus.
I sort of use the flutter method but give a wee more tension to it after the flutter stops.
IIRC the 3/4" woodslicer strung on my saw now is @ 5 or 5 1/2 on the factory scale (haven't looked in awhile as with the quick release mechanism I don't fiddle with tension after set up). I put no faith in the "accuracy" of factory scales but do use that as a reference for re-tensioning when I change out to a different blade. For resaw my general linear thinking says alot of tension is good. The deflection of the blade you refer to with a good push is 'bout the same as mine.
I also won't bust open my wallet for an after market gadget to measure tension. Performance of the saw is a good an indicator to me as anything & going off tension alone doesn't account for variances from band to band in my again linear mind.

No wheel shutter here? My saw did make some "mating whale" noise when new, but that was from the wheel brushes.

Never did get to test drive the new LA Jack last night, movind damn furniture back in place and refilling the fish tanks AGAIN. Twice in 2 days now... least I have a week full of shop time!

[Peter Quadarella]

Peter, Why overdo it? Aren't the symptoms of under tensioning obvious, corrected by increasing tension, while the symptoms of over tensioning are premature blade failure?
I just haven't had any blade failure I guess, so I haven't worried aobut it (of course maybe that will change). I have a feeling I will dull them before they break from being tensioned. I'm not cranking it down super hard or anything, I'm just saying I prefer to err on the side of overtensioned.

I do have a G0513X2 but my point was I never paid attention to the numbers (especially since it is likely a carbon steel 3/4", vs. a bi-metal 3/4", vs. a carbide 3/4" probably all require different tensions, never mind different sizes or from different manufacturers). Sorry I couldn't answer your question, I'll refrain from any more posts.

[Pat Germain]

I also have a G0513X2. All my blades are Timberwolf. The manufacturer instructions are to use the flutter method which results in less tension than most other blades.

Sorry, I pay almost no attention to the tension gauge. I'll go home tonight, apply blade tension and see what it reads. I'm pretty sure I've got a 1/2" blade installed and dialed in at the moment.

I really dig the saw, but I haven't had much of a chance to use it yet.

[Barry Vabeach]

Marcus, I use the Lennox bimetal - according to some literature it is supposed to be set at 30,000 psi IIRC. I have tried a pair of samples at each number running from 4 to as high as where 10 would be if the numbers kept going. In looking at the samples, I didn't see any consistency in the surface of the wood at various settings. For example, both the 5 and the 10 looked smoother than the 7 and the 8. The samples were cherry about 2 inches wide and 24 inches long and I just looked at them briefly - If I get time I will try to joint them flat and try to keep count of how many passes that takes to see if there are any consistent results. Good luck.

[glenn bradley]

Interesting. I can only move my band about 1/8" to the side with a fair push. I would think 1/4" would make it far too lose to resaw. And while I agree every band is different, I'd still like to know where people are running their saws. Only one person has answered my original question, everyone else preferring to tell me I'm barking up the wrong tree, or talk about how they tension their (non G0513x2???) saws.

Just so you get one specific answer from an owner; my 3/4" Timberwolf runs at about 5-3/4.