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George Farra
10-30-2008, 2:16 PM
Hi Everyone,

I break down sheet goods with a CS and guide. But once in smaller peices I cut to final size on a TS, its a Bosch 4100.

Ocassionally, the peice binds up during the cut. I think its binding on the riving knife. I've checked the fence and its paralell to the miter guage, saw blade, and riving knife.

I'm using a Freud thin kerf combo blade which is .001" thicker than the riving knife so I should be good.

I would say that 2 out of 5 cuts in sheet goods binds up. I've never had a problem with solid wood stock after jointing and planing. Is it possible that the sheet goods has a slight bow in it that I'm not seeing and that is why it binds up??

Anything else on the saw I should check?

TIA

George

Mikail Khan
10-30-2008, 7:28 PM
Hi Everyone,


I would say that 2 out of 5 cuts in sheet goods binds up. I've never had a problem with solid wood stock after jointing and planing. Is it possible that the sheet goods has a slight bow in it that I'm not seeing and that is why it binds up??


George

Use a straight edge or a 4' level to check the edge of the sheet goods. Most like likely this is the problem since jointed and planed stock does not bind.

MK

Ken Lustgarten
10-30-2008, 7:45 PM
I highly recommend a guided saw system. I use the EZ Smart. Check out the Eurekazone forum on this site for more info. Since going to a guided system I will not cut up sheet goods on the table saw any longer. You can make perfectly sized and finised cuts with the EZ so there is no reason to clean up on the TS and no danger and no strugling trying to keep the heavy sheets straight. What kind of in/out feed are you using? Stands can tip at the worst times. Permanent tables are best. Does it make more sence to push an 80 pound sheet of mdf or an 8 pound saw?

Dan Clark
10-30-2008, 11:15 PM
George,

I guess the fundamental question is why are you recutting on a table saw? If you have a good CS and a good guide rail, you shouldn't have to recut.

I use a Festool TS55 + guide rail to break down sheet goods to final size. I get very smooth, accurate cuts. No extra work needed.

Note the I mentioned a "good CS". Make sure that your CS is very solid and the blade is square to the CS bottom plate. If not, that might be the problem. The best guide rail in the world will give you poor cuts if combined with a poor saw.

Regards,

Dan.

Mike Goetzke
10-30-2008, 11:40 PM
I also use an EZ system for cutting sheet goods to final sides, but, you should not get binding on you TS. Your riving knife seems a little thick from what I use - mine is 0.090". Also, I have been taught to cut a clean edge on the ply and not to trust the factory edge as being straight nor two factory edges to be square.

Mike

George Farra
10-31-2008, 2:01 PM
My CS is a porter cable....my guide is homemade and crude. I could make a better one or buy a machined guide system like the EZ.

I did check the factory edge of the plywood....it appeared straight, but really wasn't....I'm assuming this caused the binding...or my feed rate was not even and caused a twist.

The riving knife on the saw is .090" while my blade is .091"....definately not a problem here as last night I was ripping 2" poplar without any problems at all...the poplar was jointed and planed to thickness.

Just to clarify....I wouldn't never attempt to cut down full sheets of plywood on a TS. Not even 1/2 sheets. I was working with peices that were roughly 24" x 20"

Thanks for the help

George