Cutting 2-Sided Melamine Tips

[Mike Wilkins]

Short of getting a dedicated blade for cutting 2-sided laminate/melamine, any tips floating out there for cutting this material??? I have a job requiring the use of this material and could use some tips for ripping & crosscutting without the usual chip-outs that result from using a regular combination-type blade.
Thanks in advance.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

There are special blades for this - but any "HiATB" has a higher angle alternating tooth bevel that helps cutting melamine. Also, a good ZCI is a must to help with chipout.

[Jim Becker]

A Zero Clearance Insert in your table saw is pretty much essential. (And a "fresh" one that hasn't been opened up over time by vibration through use isn't a horrible idea) Some folks find that a "scoring" cut on the bottom may also be helpful...the blade is just barely raised above the table and you run the material backwards first. Then raise the blade to appropriate level for the through cut and process normally. Obviously, you need to be careful with this!

But honestly, if you are going to be cutting a lot of this stuff, either now or over time, investing in a blade designed for the material isn't a horrible idea in addition to using the ZCI.

[Thomas S Stockton]

The special melamine blades do a great job and I would recommend one. Even with a scoring blade melamine is chip prone. One thing I do is always keep the good side up so that any chips aren't on a show face if possible. The best solution is to avoid the stuff like the plague.
Tom

[scott spencer]

Some painter's tape on the exit of the cut line can help too, but I'd still try scoring, a ZCI, and would consider a Hi-ATB blade.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

What John and Jim said.

I bought a Freud hi-ATB blade for melamine and it works very well. I also have a Freud triple chip grind (TCG) blade for melamine, but the hi-ATB blade is darn near perfect on both sides of the board. When I used the TCG blade, I would score the underside about 1/8" while feeding in reverse. It's a bit of a pain to keep raising and lowering the blade (and installing/removing the splitter), but the technique works.

I understand that hi-ATB blades dull faster though. Mine still seems OK after one kitchen job.

-Jeff :)

[Greg Hines, MD]

I always tape the cut line, and it usually helps to reduce chip out. I would agree completely with the zeroed-out zero-clearance insert, as the more support you can offer it right next to the edge, the better you will do.

Doc

[Chris Padilla]

How about a guided saw guide system like Festool or EZ? Either of those will cut melamine perfectly cleanly. Maybe the new DeWalt?

[Brian Ross]

I have tried more melamine type blades than I care to mention. The only one that I found that cuts clean on both sides and will stay sharp is the ones made by FS Tool and it is made for melamine, XL 4000 series. I have bought melamine blades that would cut great for about 3 sheets and then go downhill real fast. I was able to get about one and a half kitchens out of the FS Tool blade. I now have a SCMI 350 slider and my problems are solved. I almost like working with the stuff again as there is no finishing required when building cabinets.

Brian

[frank shic]

a more costly alternative is the modulus 2000. it requires a little bit of time to install and adjust but it gives perfectly chip-free cuts on BOTH sides for those of you who seek after perfection!

[Rod Sheridan]

a more costly alternative is the modulus 2000. it requires a little bit of time to install and adjust but it gives perfectly chip-free cuts on BOTH sides for those of you who seek after perfection!

Hi Frank, what saw do you have it installed on, and if I may be so presumptious, how much does a modulus attachment cost?

Thanks, Rod.

[Nissim Avrahami]

I asked this question on another forum and got the following reply from a guy that is in the trade and cut's many Melamine and other good sheets......well, with Altendorf...
-----------------------------------
5. Blade sharpness - you may only achieve 20 to 40 meters (65'~130' - niki) cutting on a blade depending on make, grind, etc.

There is an alternative solution, although it must be used with caution because it increases the tendency to kickback - use a negative rake blade (normally sold as a mitre blade for the RAS or chop saw). This will tend to cause the work to climb the blade - a potential kickback hazard - but the cut will be remarkably good. Just use carefully and preferably with a hold down if used on the table saw!
-------------------------------------

Regards
niki

[Mike Wilkins]

Thanks guys. This is the reason I don't mind contributing to this site. The into and tips provided are right on time.
I did not think of the Festool guided saw as an option. I have one that is not used much, so now is a great time to dust it off and try on some scrap.
I will probably tape it anyway to increase my odds of success.

[Alex Carrera]

I've had great results with a scoring cut running it in the proper direction. I would have never thought about running it backwards.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I did not think of the Festool guided saw as an option. I have one that is not used much, so now is a great time to dust it off and try on some scrap
A few weeks ago I made some knock toghether shelves for a tenant's front closet.
I used 2 -sided Melamine cut to size with my Festool TS55EQ.
The cuts are perfect. Zero tearout/chipping through all 5 cuts that I made.

If you already have one, it's the perfect tool for the job.

FWIW - I also ripped down some of the scraps on my TS using a brand new ZCI. The first cut was almost as good as the Festool. After that first cut, things went downhill fast.

[frank shic]

rod, the few web sites that i've found it on list it around $399-$417 although i'm waiting for the official price from the maker who was kind enough to actually walk me through the installation process on the phone.

[Paul Williams]

A little unusual but a cheap alternative is Freud's "wet lumber blade." The factory rep told me that a zero or negative hook angle was the requirement for cutting melmine. The idea is to have the cutting surface run almost parallel to the board surface at the exit point.

I don't know if it is available in larger sizes, but I just used my circular saw to break down sheets for my cabinet project and it worked so well I did all of the cutting with it.