hanging raised panels - attaching wainscoting

[Lucas Bittick]

What is the best way to attach raised paneling to a wood-framed wall?

I have a den with a stone fireplace in it that is yearning for traditional raised panels. I plan to panel the room over the next year. Fundamental question: how to attach the panels? I have seen a lot articles on building/attaching wainscoting and paneling-- most of them involve achieving the "look" of paneling without too much regard for how the system of panels and the building will interact over the years. I plan to invest the time, money, and planning to make this both durable and attractive.

I don't simply want to attach a wall of panels with construction adhesive (a popular method). I am not sure about nailing/screwing panel rails into the studs-- it seems to me that the paneling system and the building structure need to have some independent movement. We use the fireplace in the winter and rarely use AC in the summer, so the temperature in my house is never the same all year.

Are there specialized clips or a particular method I can use to attach the paneling to allow for movement? I can't seem to find a lot of info about this.

Many thanks!

[Jim Becker]

If you plan things out, you can simply use finish nails into the wall structure in areas that you plan on adding detail molding, etc., That hides the larger fasteners. You can use a pinner and a little bit of glue for the detail moldings at that point since there is no stress on them. Using nails will allow some movement that glue would not.

That said, what the wainscot is made of makes a difference. If it's solid wood, than the above method is the only way I'd go. If it's painted MDF or other composites, then glue is just fine since there is limited expansion/contraction, both of the material and the wall.

[Tom Hargrove]

When I made the paneling in my dining room and master bath, I used MDF. I attached the rails and stiles with adhesive and finishing nails. Most of the nails were hidden. Those not hidden were filled before painting. The panels float. I primed (tinted to match paint in case the panels move) all six sides of all the components before installing. In the four years since installation, it is still firmly attached, and other than wear and tear, looks good. I too have swings in temperature/humidity in the house since we avoid A/C in the summer unless it gets really hot.

Before I stopped my subscription, (the home is done at this point, and I don't need/want to tackle another full house addition/remodel project!) Fine Homebuilding published at least two articles I can think of about installing solid wood paneling, perhaps more. Gary M. Katz, the noted trim carpenter, has also published information about this topic. (I know we aren't supposed to refer to other websites, so I won't refer you to his website . . .) I also got some inspiration from companies that make prefabricated paneling kits. Some of their published resources have great information on how their systems work, and how to install the components. One of them uses a "keyhole" type of clip on the back of the stiles/rails that slips onto screws driven into studs. If your home has drywall, you can remove horizontal strips 3-4" wide, and replace it with plywood fastened to the studs. This will give you more fastening options for the paneling system.

The dining room in our turn of the century home also demanded paneling of some type. We ended up with a 52" high wainscoat. Designing, laying out, fabricating and installing the paneling was challenging, but was one of the most satisfying projects I have ever worked on. Good luck.

[Lucas Bittick]

Thanks for the replies so far.

Some more info: The paneling will be built out of oak (hence my strong interest in planning this well)... I hadn't planned to use a lot of ornamental molding. I am looking for "simple yet effective." The panels will have a flat bevel ~45 degrees, and the rails/stiles will have plain 90 degree edges (no ogee). I envision using a stub tenon and groove construction, cut on a table saw, and pocket hole joints to hold the frames together. (Using full mortise/tenon construction is just not practical for this project given my time and available equipment).

I probably should spring for the Katz book, but I don't need to know about all the possible installation scenarios covered in these books... I am planning for MY installation. ;)

The room has 90 degree corners (give or take), 3 doors, and a fireplace. Essentially a big box. It really doesn't have complicated geometry/angles.

I know its an involved project, but rail, stile, and panel construction is so integral to building many things-- I really want to learn how to do it well. Also, I obviously want the room to look good.

[Leo Graywacz]

I've put up plenty of paneling/wainscoting and I never worried about the movement. A little construction adhesive and some nails will do the job. Use the wax pencils to hide the nail holes when you are finished.

[Gordon Harner]

Based on the postings, it looks to mee that you want to apply your material directly to the frame. You need to check the local building code because the code will likely require that drywall be installed over the studs. This requirement results in a "fire rated wall assembly". Strategically placed blocking in the framing will make the install much easier and result in less movement of the paneling system.

[Lucas Bittick]

Everyone: thank you very much for the great points.

Gordon-- I hadn't though of the firecode, but I will certainly look into code. Code or not, it makes sense to have the fire barrier.

Hey Tom-- when are you going to post pics of the dining room? ;)

[Jeff Duncan]

I'd recommend getting a book, whether it's Katz's or anther good book on trim work. You'll find many good tips and may well save you from making some costly mistakes. You can pick up Katz's book used online for $21, compared to the hundreds of dollars and many hours of time you'll spend fabricating and installing this work, it's kinda insignificant isn't it?:rolleyes:
good luck,
JeffD

[Lucas Bittick]

You can pick up Katz's book used online for $21, compared to the hundreds of dollars and many hours of time you'll spend fabricating and installing this work, it's kinda insignificant isn't it?

Who can argue with that?

I will probably get a book... I've gone over them at the bookstore, and I have invested some time researching this-- there is quite a bit online, too. I am beginning the planning process, and although I can't account for everything, I figured I would ask some questions around here as well.

I hadn't come across anything that addressed the movement of the framing vs. the paneling, and it appears from the responses here that it isn't too much to be concerned about.

I would probably do as Leo suggested and hide the holes with wax pencil/putty. Anyone have other preferred techniques for concealing finishing nails in this kind of installation?