Router Table Router: Newbie Question

[Porter Bassett]

I would love to have a router table, so I'm thinking of building one.

I've never actually used a router table (if you don't count the piece of MDF with a hole in it that I bolted my router to), so I'm not sure what all is involved besides the table. I know I'll need a dedicated router and a baseplate that fits it. Is there anything else?

I know that they sell really expensive router riser systems, but can I get by with just lifting the router and base out of the table to adjust the height?

Any words of wisdom about what sort of router I should get?

[glenn bradley]

Amazingly open subject ;). As you have already figured out, a router table can be very basic all the way to extreme in design, function and cost. Others will surely chime in but here's some basics from my experience. As always, keep in mind that we can only tell you our opinions and experience based on what we do with an RT. What is critical for my work may only be a convenience to someone else.

Router:
- plenty of power (I run a Mil 5625)
- variable speed for proper operation of a wide variety of bits
- easy height adjustment (I run a PRL), not a motor body that you have to spin to adjust like the PC690 or such configuration
- easy adaptability to a future lift or a built in height feature like a Triton, Freud, Milwaukee or some plunge routers (plunge routers mean no true lift but some don't need it)

- and everything that others will list that I forgot

Table:
- material that is self supporting or well enough supported to remain flat (search here on router table top sag)
- adequate size to support your type of work
- plate with inserts that will provide close clearance on a variety of bits
- miter slot to support jigs and fixtures
- overhang on the left and right to allow clamping-on of jigs and fixtures (I messed this up and have my new top ready to go on)
- dust control

Fence:
-- (as in a table saw, this is a primary item that makes or breaks your table enjoyment) --
- adjustable for (or dead-on) 90* to the table
- supports feather boards, safety gear and DC
- replaceable and modifiable faces

and oh, so much more that I will leave room for other responses. Enjoy this decision and process. A router table is as critical an element for me as the jointer, planer, band saw, table saw or drill press.

[Neal Clayton]

some ideas that have come up here in the past for budget rigging...

a) harbor freight carries a cheap router table with a cast iron top, it might be worth taking a look at (toss the base and save the top, make your own mount/table).

b) if you plan to put a plunge router in (only thing that would really work with a), there are alternative means of raising/lowering than a lift (router raizer for instance, or a plunge router with a bottom depth adjust).

[Prashun Patel]

You don't need a dedicated router and base for the table. I have a single Bosch router motor with a fixed base and a plunge base. The fixed base is permanently attached to the table, and the motor slides out easily when I want to hand rout with the plunge base.

Unless you WANT to build the table, the cheaper soln is probably to buy a top with a fence and just build the legs or base as you see fit.

[Danny Thompson]

Lifting, adjusting, and putting back can be reaaally annoying. But, that doesn't mean you need an expensive lift. To raise mine, which has a fixed and a plunge base, you simply flip a lever on the base, twist the router (clockwise to raise, counter to lower), and then flip the lever shut. That said, I still wish I had a fancy lift.

Suggestions:

1. Make sure the top is flat-flat-flat and has the necessary support to stay that way.
2. Dust collection through the fence is very important to ensure dust and chips don't get trapped between your work and the fence or your work and the table.
3. If you don't have an expensive lift, make sure you have access to the router from below.
4. Miter track on the table and on the fence.
5. Make sure the fence is tall enough to accommodate a featherboard.

Norm has a very popular router table plan.

[Porter Bassett]

Wow. Thanks for the responses.

The routers I currently have are a PC 690 and a "Craftsman Professional", both of which do height adjustment by spinning, so it looks like I'll want a new router for my table.


easy adaptability to a future lift or a built in height feature like a Triton, Freud, Milwaukee or some plunge routers (plunge routers mean no true lift but some don't need it)I really don't know what you're saying here -- would you mind clarifying? Do the routers you listed have easy adaptability to a future lift, or do they have built-in height features? What do you mean when you say "plunge routers mean no true lift", and why don't they need it?


Unless you WANT to build the table, the cheaper soln is probably to buy a top with a fence and just build the legs or base as you see fit.Where can I buy a top with a fence? I remember seeing one at Woodcraft, but it didn't seem to be cheaper than I could make a top myself.

There's a guy out here selling a brand-new Freud 1702VCEK for a $130 (not quite as good as those that were able to buy it at Lowe's recently, which is probably where this one comes from, but it still seems a good price). Would that serve me well? The web says it has an "above table height adjustment knob". Is that what Glenn was talking about?

[glenn bradley]

easy adaptability to a future lift or a built in height feature like a Triton, Freud, Milwaukee


A removable motor with a smooth body will fit in various lifts (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94380&d=1218252183). This can get expensive and may not be the road you want to go down just yet. While the Mil 5625 and others do have a removable motor that lends itself to a lift, they have above the table adjustment capabilities via a t-handle or crank that meet with various levels of success.

99554



or some plunge routers (plunge routers mean no true lift but some don't need it) What do you mean when you say "plunge routers mean no true lift", and why don't they need it?


There is a product called the Router Raizer (http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm)that adapts to plunge routers and utilizes their on-board plunge mechanisms to act as a sort of a lift when inverted in the table. Many folks have found these to be very usable.

By "no true lift" I didn't mean to sound as negative as that reads. A plunge router (as opposed to a combo (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ibDC4W-3L._SL500_AA280_.jpg) where the motor is swapped between a fixed base and a plunge base) does not have a removeable motor and therefor is not a candidate for a lift like a Jess-Em (http://www.jessem.com/rout_r_lift_fx.htm)or a Woodpecker (http://www.woodpeck.com/liftshome.html).

[Jim Chilenski]

Porter,

Yes, the Freud FT-1700 would make a very good table router. Freud designed it with that in mind. When you mount the fixed base to your table you are able to release the height lock, raise or lower the bit, and engage the shaft lock all without ever reaching under the table. You are also able to change bits without removing the router from the table.

The steps are.....

Release the height lock
Raise the bit to its full height
Engage the shaft lock and use any wrench to remove the bit

Because you can do all of these steps from above the table you will quickly become spoiled by the Freud router. The only complaint that I have is that the height adjustment uses a coarse thread instead of a fine thread. But to others this may be an advantage.

And when you need to use your router as a hand held router you can release the height lock, press and hold the quick release height adjustment, and then slide the motor out of the fixed base for use with the plunge base.

Shop around on the web. I have seen the combo offered reconditioned for about the same price as the one you found. That will get you the five year warranty as well.

Jim

[Neal Clayton]

I really don't know what you're saying here -- would you mind clarifying? Do the routers you listed have easy adaptability to a future lift, or do they have built-in height features? What do you mean when you say "plunge routers mean no true lift", and why don't they need it?



the 3.5hp milwaukee, iirc adjusts height on a gear, not by twist. something that adjusts height by twist, like the PC 690, won't work, since the twist will slip with the weight of the router pulling on it.

[glenn bradley]

the 3.5hp milwaukee, iirc adjusts height on a gear, not by twist. something that adjusts height by twist, like the PC 690, won't work, since the twist will slip with the weight of the router pulling on it.

Another bad deal is that the power cord twists about and the power switch is always in a different place depending on "height". The 690 is great little hand router though ;-)

[Paul Steiner]

The New yankee router table is really nice. You should check it out.
I have 2 router tables and I use them both about the same amount that they both have there own merits.
I have a PC 690 in a simple table setup. Works great I use it for all my smaller stuff, the twist action the 690 makes an easy adjust. Don't count out the 1 3/4 routers, they still very helpful.
My second is a hitatchi m12 3.5hp plunge router with a router razier lift. I use this for my big stuff, doors, crown moulding.
The my best table is one I made from an old counter top and a freud fence system. You
I like my current setup, it was in expensive. If money was no object I would have a 3.5 hp PC in a jessum lift and a 690 in a lift.
But if you are spending more than $1000 on a router and table, maybe you should step up to a shaper.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would love to have a router table, so I'm thinking of building one.

I've never actually used a router table (if you don't count the piece of MDF with a hole in it that I bolted my router to), so I'm not sure what all is involved besides the table. I know I'll need a dedicated router and a baseplate that fits it. Is there anything else?

I know that they sell really expensive router riser systems, but can I get by with just lifting the router and base out of the table to adjust the height?

Any words of wisdom about what sort of router I should get?


I am going to disagree with some of what has been said. My first router was a 690, and I did a lot of good work with it, in a home made table. Yes, it is more difficult to deal with the rotating motor for height adjustments, and yes, the cord can get tangled if you do too much fussing with it without untangling, but you should be able to do plenty with it.

A router plate is handy, but not essential. Neither is a lift, or anything fancier than a straight length of board for a fence. If you are in the marked for a new router, then make sure you get one that can be adjusted above the table, but if not, then save up for the one you want.

Personally, I upgraded to a PC 890 and could not be happier. The bases use the same mount hole pattern, so I did not have to replace that, and by drilling another pair of hole for the adjustment knob, you can lock/unlock and adjust the height from above the table.

Doc

[pat warner]

Some fundamentals in the notes (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).

[Larry Nall]

Porter, I agree with Greg. I've been using a 690 in a dirt simple table for years, built an entire kitchen with it. I'm ready to begin my dream table now, but when I first started I had no clue what I wanted in a router table. Start simple, figure out your needs, then build a proper table.