Experimentation with a shooting board

[Mike Henderson]

I did some experimentation in the design of this shooting board. The first experiment was the use of a wedge as the backer board.

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The advantage of the wedge is that it stays straight because of the way the board is made, and as the end of the wedge wears from use, you can extend the wedge by just taking a couple of swipes along the wedge with a plane. That allows the wedge to go into the socket a bit further, which restores your backer support for the board you're cutting. (Thanks to Carl Stammerjohn for this idea)
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This picture is the same view as above, but shows my wooden shooting plane on the board.

The second experiment is that the board is a right and left hand shooting board.
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Note that there a socket for the wedge on both ends of the shooting board. So if you need to shoot on the left side, you turn the board 180*, take the wedge out and move it to the other socket and shoot on the left side.

The problem with turning the board 180* is the "hook" on the underside of the board. If the hook is fixed, you can't easily turn it 180*.
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What I did was to put two hooks on the underside of the board, but make them folding so that you can pull the one you want down.

Comments? Suggestions? Are these good ideas?

Mike

[Robert Rozaieski]

Very innovative Mike. I like it, though it is a little complex. I usually lean toward the simplest designs in appliances like shooting boards and bench hooks figuring they are basically disposable, but I applaud your ingenuity. I like the wedge idea, though I wonder how long the fence will stay square to the ramp with the constant inserting and removal. I would think this would put wear on the pocket for the fence over time, making the fit more sloppy and perhaps knock it out of square. I like the folding hook idea. Very creative solution.

[Jim Becker]

I almost always learn something from your posts, Mike. That's a really kewel and thoughtful design!

[Doug Shepard]

I've had this one on my To-Do list since spotting it not too long ago. I like the wedge idea but this one solves it by having slotted fences and does miters too.
http://www.sydnassloot.com/bbuckner/MitrePlane.htm

[Tony Zaffuto]

I like the concept Mike! My shooting board has been on life support for nearly six months, mainly because of ideas of what I will do differently when I finally get around to making a replacement.

I doubt if I will copy the wedge idea though, although the new one will have the fence rabbeted in (unlike the existing board). Maybe I'll come up with some sort of split fence idea to compensate to the inevitable wear on the end of the fence.

Can't remember who said it, but I agree that appliances such as bench hooks and shooting boards are not permanent. I didn't build my existing ones thinking they would last forever, but here it is 2 or 3 years later and they're still doing great service. Incidentally, what I do on the shooting board is take a couple of swipes with my large LN shoulder plane to keep it true, then all it takes is a pass with the #9 to be ready again.

T.Z.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Mike,

I think moving wedges and folding hooks are a bit fussy. I built the board in the following links (pictures are a bit large sized to just post) 5 or so years ago. Though I sold off the LN plane (gosh, it worked great) and use another now (a wood miter plane that also works wonderful).

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/veneer2/shootboards_0005.jpg
http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/veneer2/shootboards_0006.jpg

I made a couple odd angled removeable "heads" for a special purpose. Otherwise the 90 and 45 degree are what get used.

I have never wore out a backer. Probably because I keep the planes set about the same. If I do, a couple layers of 18 mm BB ply will replace what's there. If where the plane rides wears out, another cut-off from 1/4" hardboard replaces that.

I expect better longevity from a shooting board than saw bench hooks and slaves. Same with the 150 year old miter jack I use (even more than the shooting board). But in the end, they are either tossable or rebuildable shop tools.

Take care, Mike

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks, everyone, for your comments. I agree that a shooting board is a replaceable item - but I was just experimenting. I have an older shooting board that I use most of the time and it works fine (see pixs).

I'm taking a class on advanced hand tool use and the instructor challenged us to build a shooting board which incorporated new concepts and ideas. That's pretty hard because so many people have experimented before us.

It'll be interesting to see what other people come up with.

Mike

[Stephen Shepherd]

Can you explain your shooting plane?

Stephen

[Mike Henderson]

Can you explain your shooting plane?

Stephen
I'm sorry, Stephen, but I don't understand what you want to know. Also, which shooting plane? The one in the original posting, or the one in the later posting?

If it's the one in the original posting, it's bedded at 35* and has lignum vita on both sides and the bottom to make it slide better (it can also be used as a regular upright plane). I plan to put a "hot dog" type handle on the side - which will be detachable - to give a better grip while shooting.

The iron is an old 2 1/4" cast steel iron that I bought off eBay, bedded bevel down. It does have a chip breaker. Can't think of much else to say about it.

Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Mike

Excellent work! I love to see some creativity going into areas like this. There was an article on this design sliding fence in (I think) Popular Woodworking about a year ago.

I cannot see how you are going to use the same fence on the ltwo ends - surely the tapered dados will vary in thickness, which will entend one fence further than the other?

I opted for a simpler solution. It looks more complex at first, because it requires construction, but this is just two saw cuts.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Advances%20in%20a%20ramped%20shooting%20board_html _m5edc7ca.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Advances%20in%20a%20ramped%20shooting%20board_html _m3648a719.jpg

There are more details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Advances%20in%20a%20ramped%20shooting%20board.html

Looking forward to more of your observations.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

You're right, Derek. When you switch ends, the wedge will not extend exactly the same. I fiddled with the slot to try to get the two sockets exactly the same but you can never be that exact.

Given that, it's not too bad because the wedge can be adjusted a small amount by going tighter or looser and it still works okay. I got it to where I can move the wedge from end-to-end and not have to trim the wedge, but I have to tap it harder on one end than the other.

But even if I have to trim the wedge, I don't use the left hand side very often so I can live with it.

Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Mike

Here is another observation. Meant to mention it earlier.

Some like the sliding fence idea. On my personal (wooden) shooting board I do not bother with closing the fence up. The need for a backup board is actually false. Yes it works, but it is not necessary to have. I have a Stanley #51/52 as well, and this is terrific for switching between square and mitre set ups. Often I just leave the fence wide open.

There is no secret to the reason why I avoid break out. I did document this in the first articles on shooting boards on my website.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4 .html

The technique is simple to chamfer the rear of the work to the depth you plan to cut, then plane to this. You stop planing when you reach this depth. So the chamfer does two things - prevents breakout and marks the depth of cut.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4 _html_6da4ff98.jpg

Place the chamfer against the fence and shoot.

Regards from Perth

Derek