Newbie bandsaw question

[Rick Prosser]

I purchased a used "set" of gear to get started in turning. The low end bandsaw in the set is a Hitachi CB6YI 10 in. I am in the process of learning about the workings.

I am having difficulty with cutting, so before I spend money on a replacement blade, I want to be sure there is not another problem with the saw.

I tried to cut a piece of wood without re-tensioning the blade,:eek: and after it jammed, now the blade moves forward and backward (in and out of the wood) at one spot (maybe 1/8 of an inch or so - still seems to be solid on the idler wheels) as it cycles around. This is confusing, since I would understand a side to side bend, but not a front to back bend?:confused:

The current blade teeth are finer? that I have seen on other bandsaws - smaller teeth close together. They feel sharp to my finger. Cutting a pen blank in half was no trouble, but I could not cut thru green walnut of 3-4 inches except by 1/2 inch runs - ie cut about 1/2 inch, slide back to let the saw spin up to speed, move back in, cut about 1/2 inch, repeat. My hope is that I just need a blade with bigger teeth - and not that the motor is too wimpy to cut anything but pen blanks. Also, cannot seem to cut in a straight line with the grain on thicker pieces. Could just be me?:(

If this is not enough info to address the question, I will respond to requests.

Thanks for any guidance (other than purchase a different bandsaw - that is the plan for the future).

rick

[Prashun Patel]

I'd get a new blade. There are also a bunch of great articles on line about how to tension and align the bearings and tracking.

I also had puzzling problems with a bad blade that seemed sharp. When I changed the blade, those probs went away instantly and the saw cut like it was supposed to; it's a very intuitive machine.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have a 10" craftsman and I change the fine tooth blade out to a 1/4" X 4 tpi blade. On my big Grizzly I use a 1/2" X 3 tpi blade. Fine teeth on your blade is not going to cut green wood very well at all. By the way I use Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery. Call them and tell them what you have for a saw plus what you want to cut and they will tell you what blade you need. You also need to properly tension your blade to make it work well. There are a lot of articles on how to make your wheels co-planer and how to tension your blade.

[Paul Engle]

I agree with Bernie, I use the timber wolf 1/2" on my 12" Delta , 3 tpi and when sharp it is llike cutting butter , if your blade is noisey or jerking around side to side - front to back . practice alignment with it , then get a new blade and set it up ( lots of info on set up on the web) . I have only the one machine and use the 1/2 " for resaw and blanks up to 5 + " thick ( minimum radius it will cut well is 11" and a 1/4 " skip tooth pos rake 3 tpi for under that size ( down to 2 " radius ) and use a 1/8" 4 tpi pos rake for under 2 inch radius cuts. I also swaped out my 1/2 hp motor to 3/4 hp and this helps also.

[Prashun Patel]

I also have a Twolf blade on my bsaw. I found the folks @ Suffolk machinery extremely helpful AND their blades weren't that expensive.

[Reed Gray]

For me, if the blade is moving front to back, it means it is ready to break due to a fracture of some sort. Move the blade by hand to see where the bump is, and check the blade. You do need different blades for different cuts. A fine toothed blade (more than 3 or 4 teeth per inch) is not well suited for cutting green wood bowl blanks. I prefer the Lennox bimetel blades. I can get them custom made here in town.
robo hippy

[Richard Madison]

Rick,
Sounds like your blade is indeed cratered, possibly with a kink somewhere.

Bandsaws require some detailed TLC in the form of multiple adjustments. Good advice above to check out some BS tune up info online. Done right, it is a whole procedure every time you change a blade. Big, expensive saws need the same attention as smaller, less expensive saws.

Get a new blade, read your owners' manual, and read the tune up tips online.

[Tom Wilson66]

Don't know what all is available online for bandsaw adjustment, but I would recommend getting a copy of Mark Duginske's band saw book. When I started using a bandsaw, I had lots of problems till I got the book and made the adjustements recommended. It also has lots of information on the various blades, and when to use them. Try looking inthe use book section of the Barnes and Noble site, they sometimes have very good deals on books, although you may have to wait a long time for it to arrive through the mail.

[Michael Faurot]

I purchased a used "set" of gear to get started in turning. The low end bandsaw in the set is a Hitachi CB6YI 10 in. I am in the process of learning about the workings.


Before I bought my first bandsaw, I wound up taking a class on how to set-up and use a bandsaw. My local Woodcraft had this class and it made a big difference in both what I decided to buy and how quickly and easily I was able to get it working once I got it.

There's a number of things to learn and master when using a bandsaw, like what type of blade to use (e.g., number of TPI), size of the blade (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", etc.), adjustment of guide bearings, thrust bearings, wheel alignment, and getting the blade tensioned correctly. Then there's technique issues like resawing, what to do if the cut is drifting and how to fold and unfold a blade. These were all covered in the class I took. Definitely money well spent.

[Jason Solodow]

Sounds to me like you may be using a blade with too fine of teeth for cutting green wood. I use a 1/2" 3TPI Skip blade on my 14' Delta and it'll go through a 10 inch thick blank without a problem. I'm curious to try the T-wolf blades, but I buy mine from an online company called bandsawblades.com and I love 'em. I use a 105" 1/2" 3TPI Skip blade, and they run me about $10 per blade (shipping included) and they last a long time. I can usually cut about a 100 blanks or more before the blade starts to dull out. This is an average though, I usually cut my blanks from 6" diameter and 3" thick up to 12" diameter and 8" thick... Anywho, sorry if I'm rambling....

[Jim Becker]

Regarding the "jamming", be sure you are not cross cutting logs without them being fully supported in a jig to keep them from turning. Not doing that is a sure way to have the blade grab the workpiece, kink the blade and potentially remove your fingers in the process.

And the comments about using a blade best suited to cutting wet/green wood is also spot-on. The Timberwolf AS, for example, is made to do this well.

[Jeff Nicol]

This reply has very little to do with choosing the right bandsaw or blade, but when I get in a bind I head to the polshed and take out my frustrations with this.......................... A 1985 model LT30 Woodmizer bandsaw lumber mill!

My dad bought it new in 1985 and we used it for years doing custom sawing and various cutting for friends and family. I use it now to mostly make turning stock and it almost never jams unless I hit a nail or some other steel imbedded in the log!

I agree with all the other replies that TPI and how you address the timber will effect the outcome of the cut.

Don't give up and stay the course!

Jeff

[Rick Prosser]

I happened across a blade in Lowes a couple of days ago. I installed last night and it made a HUGE difference. Blade runs steady and cuts thick green walnut without too much fuss.:)

Thanks for the replies!

Anything to be done with old bandsaw blades?

[Tom Wilson66]

Recycling comes to mind.