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View Full Version : Plans or drawings for Beanbag toss game



Lincoln Myers
10-23-2008, 4:49 PM
Wondering if anyone has built a set of bean bag toss games lately. I have seen a lot around at craft fairs and on the side of the road, but looking for anyone here who may have advice or plans for a good set.

I'd like them to fold flat for easy storage and for shipping as gifts.

I know it's not rocket science and could prolly fashion one easy enough, just curious as to Creeker's experience.

Any experience or help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Linc


For reference:
http://www.playcornhole.org/rules.shtml

Mike McCann
10-23-2008, 7:11 PM
Lincoln

check out this forum dedicated to corn hole or bean bag toss. There are plans and plenty of pics of different boards.

www cornholeplayers net

Here is a pic of the boards I made.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/mackel40/P1010063-1.jpg

Danny Thompson
10-24-2008, 12:34 AM
Here are my boards:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=73914&d=1193018843

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=73915&d=1193018853 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=73916&d=1193019327

With this design, the legs fold down into the frame and the two frames nest together (yin and yang style). The bags can be stored inside the nest. All collapsed, the set is just 4 1/2" thick.

The top is, of course, 2' x 4' 1/2" plywood.
6" hole centered 9" from the top.

The frame and legs are 5/4 red oak (sturdy; probably overkill).
The front is 3.5" x 24".
The back is 1 3/4" x 24".
The sides are 1 3/4" x 46".

The front, back, and sides are glued and brad nailed (from the top) to the underside of the top. The front and back are screwed into the sides, countersunk.

The legs are 3.5" x 12, with an angle at one end that leaves one edge 12" long, and the other 11.25". This end touches the ground.

The legs are connected to the frame via a 3/8" dowel that allows them to swivel. The dowel is centered 3 3/4" from the back edge and 1 1/4" from the bottom edge. The corner of the leg nearest the dowel must be rounded to allow the leg to collapse. A 3.5" x 20" stretcher between the legs keeps the legs pressed apart and aligned.

I also added a little clip to lock the legs in place and prevent the legs from folding under mid-game. NO NEED. I've played with the clips in place and not, and the legs never give. The wedge at the foot of the legs are enough to prevent the folding.

If you have any questions, need any more details, ask away.

Here is a quick sketch:

Lincoln Myers
10-24-2008, 8:32 AM
Great info guys, thanks. I'll take a detailed look through these later today.

-Linc