Hot thing for transferring patterns???

[Bart Sharp]

For a while now I've been using mirror-image printouts from a laser printer and a hot iron to transfer my carving patterns. I'm finding that the iron is less than ideal because it's hard to apply pressure exactly where you want it, leading to pieces of the pattern not being transferred.

I swear I've seen somewhere a "thing" that looks a lot like a woodbirner, except with a round, slightly convex head for exactly this purpose. The problem is I have no idea what to call it, and rummagine around through Rockler and Woodcraft online isn't turning anything up. Does anyone know what the heck I'm talking about? Point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
Bart

[Bill White]

Look at an edge banding iron. The old one (believe me) I have is a 48 watt.
Bill

[Archie Sullivan]

Maybe a Monokote iron would work???

http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr2100.html

[Eric DeSilva]

Or perhaps something like this--I use one for tacking prints onto substrate before putting them under a press....

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/47228-REG/Seal_Bienfang_SE1288_Tacking_Iron_Sealector.html

[Kevin Groenke]

Have you tried the acetone transfer technique?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv4d2zRPbG4

-kg

[Alan Schaffter]

How about a marking/star wheel used in sewing.

http://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/tools/toolsjb/tools150/tracewhlsqr150.jpg

[Wes Bischel]

Bart,
Check the art stores for "transfer tools". Dick Blick has this one:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz601/01/

Just as an FYI, they also have smaller pounce wheels (as Alan mentioned):
http://www.dickblick.com/zz289/11/

Wes

[Bart Sharp]

Wes, that transfer tool was exactly what I was looking for, thanks! Thanks for all the other great suggestions too, I'm going to give the acetone trick a try for sure.

[Wayne Cannon]

You can get "transfer" sheets for your printer that are designed for transferring to T-shirts, etc. I expect they would transfer more easily than the basic laser toner. See the following Google search results of "laser transfer shirt" for numerous hits: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS292&q=laser+transfer+shirt&btnG=Search. There is also "Avery 8938" for ink jet transfers.

FWIW, I use a star wheel (see photo in Alann Shaffter's posting) and carbon paper from a sewing supply store for my transfers.

[Bart Sharp]

You can get "transfer" sheets for your printer that are designed for transferring to T-shirts, etc. I expect they would transfer more easily than the basic laser toner. See the following Google search results of "laser transfer shirt" for numerous hits: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS292&q=laser+transfer+shirt&btnG=Search. There is also "Avery 8938" for ink jet transfers.

FWIW, I use a star wheel (see photo in Alann Shaffter's posting) and carbon paper from a sewing supply store for my transfers.

How well does the star wheel handle tight curves? My next project is a carved plaque with a fairly fine script and I wonder if it would be difficult to follow accurately with the wheel.

[Wayne Cannon]

The sewing-style star wheel is probably only good for accurately following a 1/4" radius curve (maybe 1/8") in one pass. However, you can make multiple passes or use a solid wheel or pencil for fine detail. It's basically carbon paper. The advantage of the star-type wheel is that it makes a more reliable impression with less pressure (because there's more pressure per square inch at the tips of the teeth). It also works better than a solid wheel or pencil when the target material isn't perfectly smooth and flat -- as fabric or unfinished wood.