Router Plate Template Question

[Dennis Putnam]

I purchased a new Freud fixed router, plate and a template so I can make a new router table top. However, the template cutout is not what I expected. I thought it would come over-sized for a specific collet size and bit. However, it came the same size as the plate (why would they do that?).

I don't see how to use that and get the appropriate precision for the table top opening. I was thinking I could use a collect and bit anyway then a flush cutting bit to finish it but I don't have a bit with a bearing on the shank end (do they make them?). If they do I'd hate to buy it for a one-off use.

I KNOW some of you folks have the answer. Thanks.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Most templates such as you are describing require that you use a top mounted bearing bit (bearing on the shank end). Buy it once, use it many times. Think of the times in the future that you could use that bit.

Are you really letting the cost of one bit stand between you and a flush fitting router plate? :confused:

[Dave Falkenstein]

Cut the rough opening about 1/2" smaller than the template all around the opening using a jig saw. When you are finished, this opening forms the inside of the ledge that the plate sits on. Tape the template in place. Using a router bit that has a top mounted bearing, and the same radius as the corners of you plate, rout the ledge to the correct depth is several passes. Make each pass a little deeper until the depth matches your plate. Yes, you need a "special" router bit, similar to this one:

http://www.woodpeck.com/inserttemplate.html

If your plate has leveling screws, install a small flat head wood screw at the point that each of the leveling screws contacts the bottom of the ledge in the opening. These screws will prevent the plate from sinking into the opening over time.

[Dennis Putnam]

No but I was looking for some other clever way. I've never had to use an upside down flush trimming bit and it just rankles that I have to buy something I am virtually certain I'll never use again (OK, the router might wear out and need to be replaced so maybe twice if I live that long). The real question is why do manufacturers do that in the first place? It seems sooooooooo much more logical to oversize it for a collet, zing and your done.

[Maurice Ungaro]

By "collet" are you referring to a template guide, such as this? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=49306&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1

[Gary Lange]

When I bought my plate from Woodpecker they offered the Template and router bit also. I bought both and couldn't be happier. I got the main hole cutout then clamped down the Template where I wanted it took the bit chucked it into my router and cut down to the proper depth for the plate to set in. I put it in place and leveled it with the Allen screws provided and it is ready to go. No complaints here at all and who knows I may want to level something and can use the bit for that. You can always find a use for something if you just think about it.

[Dennis Putnam]

Yes. Wrong word. How about bushing guide? :o

[Anthony Whitesell]

This is a little lengthy, but works like a champ. I've put in specifics where required, but made relative references where I can so you can adjust to what you have.

It uses a standard guide bushing and straight bit.

What you need:
4 pieces of 1/2" stock 4+ inches longer than the plate and 3+ inches wide (optional: cut a 2-3" piece of one end for use later as a spacer for setting the router bit depth)
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Straight or spiral router bit that matches the radius of the plate corners
Guide bushing 1/2" LARGER in DIAMETER than the router bit CENTERED on the router
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Procedure:
On each piece of stock cut a 1/4"+ wide 1/2 thickness rabbet on both sides of the stock.

With the router/straight bit/guide bushing, made a trim pass on each piece of stock. This mates the rabbet to the exact tolerances of the bit and guide bushing. If you make this cut and don't remove any stock, widen the rabbet and repeat.

Most router plate require a lip for the plate to sit on. Find the required lip width (generally this is not a critical dimension). From one edge of each piece of stock rip a piece equal to the ledge width. This should result in an L-shaped piece (small pieces in the first photo).

The prep work is finished:).

Place the router plate upside-down on the table where you would like the opening to be.
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Place and secure (double sided tape) each of the wider pieces, against the router plate with the first piece even with one edge.
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But the second piece to the first, third to the second, and the forth to the third, working your way around the plate in a circle.
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(uh, oh out of space for pictures. see next post)

[Anthony Whitesell]

Removing the router you should have.
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Now cut each of the four smaller pieces to fit in the opening and set them rabbet to rabbet. (look close it's hard to see them)
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Setup is complete, time to start cutting into that pretty router table top :eek:.

With the router setup (that you haven't touched since trimming the rabbet a few steps back) cut through the top. (The first pass)
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If the top isn't too thick you can use the router to cut all the way through and remove the center. If the top is too thick, drill holes in the corners, cut with a jig or recip saw to remove the center. Clean up the hole with a pattern following bit. (which I had to do)
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[Anthony Whitesell]

Time to cut the ledge (I'm short a few pictures of these steps so bare with me).

Remove the small pieces of rabbeted material. Set the router bit depth to the depth of the plate opening plus the thickness of the 1/2" stock. If you have the optional cutoff piece of material, then place the cutoff on the router base and measure the depth of just the ledge from there.

Now route the lip.
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Remove the boards (you may want to test fit the router plate first, you can't reinstall the boards as accurately the second time).
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Then install the router plate.
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When I did this, I omitted the trimming step and my plate has 0.002-0.003" of play left-right and front-back and my router bit was set a bit long. I spaced it up with 3 pieces of aluminum foil on each edge. If you do everything right you won't need any levelers or hold-downs.

[Mikail Khan]

Dennis,

mlcswoodworking has pattern bits for $13 with free shipping.


Anthony,

Thanks for the pics. I have to build a new router table within the next few weeks and I will probably use the method you showed for cutting the hole for the plate.

MK

[Gary McKown]

"...it just rankles that I have to buy something I am virtually certain I'll never use again."

I suspect that you will find more uses for the bit than for the template. I've never found another use for a piece of MDF with a big hole in the middle.

[Gary Lange]

You are a Woodworker! Cut the hole the size for the router then mark the area for the plate and use a chisel to cut out the rest for the depth of the plate.

[Anthony Whitesell]

This procedure was modified (hopefully improved) from one I found on the web. I've also seen it recently in one fo the magazines. If you have any questions on it just PM me.

[Maurice Ungaro]

That's it........you must know turn in your man card, and divest yourself of your tools. We expect to see your tool inventory for sale in the classified section within 48 hours. That includes the new router, plate & template.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Huh?

New router, plate, and template? Those photos are two years old, atleast. If you think I'm giving up my tools any time soon, you're crazier than I am. It's not my fault if I found a better more foolproof way to do something. I hope that someone, someday posts and improved version of my improved procedure.

(P.S. Just joking with ya' little, no offense intended.)

[glenn bradley]

I recently used the same basic method Anthony shows so well. It works like a charm, No worries, just go do it.