Lie Nielsen 112

[Pedro Reyes]

I did a search on these pages but so far I could not find a lot on this tool, everyone seems to comment on the LV version of it.

Does anyone own one of these (the LN version)that could offer some comments, the (Stanley) 112 is supposed to be a superb tool, but this one (LN) differs in that the blade can't be bowed and I wonder if this is a negative for this plane.

Any comments appreciated.

/p

[Pedro Reyes]

I don't know if I asked the wrong question, or perhaps that out of 150+ views no one owns a LN Scraper Plane.

I have one, got it recently, still untouched. I was wondering if I should even take it out of the box since it seems people were having learning curve issues with it.

So if there is an owner out there that could share experiences, good and bad, I would appreciate it.

peace

/p

[Mike Brady]

I'm going to be joining you shortly on this venture. I have a #112 coming. The tip that sticks with me is to first put a great edge at a 45 degree angle on the blade, with no hook. Use that blade like it was a hand scraper and check the angle you are holding it at when it takes good shavings. Transfer that angle to the plane, with the blade now inserted in it; and that should be your starting angle for fine adjustments. As far as depth adjustment goes, put the toe of the plane on a sheet of paper with the blade loose. Tighten the thumb screw, and that should be the baseline for depth adjustments. As long as you use a jig like the LV MkII to hone the blade, you should have repeatable results. Whether you want to try a hook after mastering the basic setup is up to you. Most users say the hook is not necessary. Let me know what you find. I have tried the other two LN scraper planes and they can be frustrating. What I did have good result with was the LV version of the #80. That is a nice tool and does, of course, allow the cambering of the blade with the thumb screw. What it lacks is the longer bed of a scraping plane.

[Hank Knight]

Pedro,

I have a LN 112. I don't often use it, but when I have needed it, it's been great. Nothing does a better job of taming tear out and smoothing big surfaces. I've not had a lot of trouble learning to use it, but I admit that I use it so seldom I have to fiddle with it a little every time I take it down from the shelf to remind myself how to get it going. I've never used a Stanley 112 or a LV scraper plane, so I have nothing to compare my LN with - which is the reason I didn't respond to your post originally. I do have and use a Stanley #80, but that's a different and a more versitile animal. IMHO, the LN 112 is a great tool that fits a very narrow niche in my shop, but it fits it well. I'm happy to have it.

My $.02

Hank

[Larry Rose]

I agree with Hank, mine is not used a lot but when there's a particulary nasty piece to smooth, the 112 usualy works great.

[Pedro Reyes]

Thanks for your posts.

Some light at the end of the tunnel.

Mike, glad you are joining, I have not had a chance to use it but I will share any good info, good luck.

/p

[David Keller NC]

I own one and have used it for years. It's a great tool, but does have a bit of learning curve. Firstly, the plane will leave really awful tracks across a wide surface if you don't do something about the corners. In my case, I filed the corners round, but you could also slightly (and I do mean slightly!) camber the blade. Be aware that if you camber the blade, the paper under the front of the plane to set the iron trick may take a bit of additional adjustment with a small brass hammer after you tighten the locking nut to get the shavings in the center of the mouth.

Second lesson was that the plane's quite aggressive at anywhere close to 90 degrees to the wood - I typically use mine at about 75 degrees (with the top of the blade forward of the cutting edge).

Finally, realize that if you make an adjustment to the lean angle of the blade, you will have to re-set the iron. IF you tilt it back towards more vertical, for example, the iron will project much more from the throat and will dig in horribly. It's a bit of back-and-forth adjustments when you first set it up, but once set it performs very well indeed.

By the way - Stanley #112s in good condition are collector's items that go for well over what a new L-N costs. I wouldn't use one unless for the nostalgia (and, by the way, the #212 L-N version is also a superb tool, but the Stanleys are very rare and command astronomical prices at tool auctions).

[Mark Wyatt]

Hmmm...I just bought a stanley #112 in good condition (about 80% of the japaning remains) and a Stanley #60 1/2 in one lot at a tool auction for $110. That did not seem astronomical.

However, the next Stanley #112, which looked completely untouched, went for about $375.

The Stanley #1 in mint, near new condition went for about $1,200. That was one expensive plane.