Drawers

[Dave Novak]

Thanks in advance for your help, I've learned so much just reading posts here. Anyway, I'm building a chest of drawers (9) and could use some advice on drawer construction. Can I build sturdy drawers out of 1/2" (15/32 to be exact) Cherry plywood? It's pretty good stuff (per the salesman), made in the US, 5 plys thick. If it is possible, how would you join the sides? I'm sure you could dovetail or similarly join solid wood, but 15/32" ply? Also, it seems too thin to plow out a groove for the drawer bottom to sit in; how would you attach the bottom? I'd love to use this plywood, but I can't figure out how I can possibly build drawers strong enough for a toddler's dresser.

[Mike Goetzke]

I have all the pieces cut and ready to assemble 14 drawers for a project I'm working on (bedroom set for my daughter). I used 1/2" BB ply with half-blind DT's at the fronts. Unless your ply is solid core I would not attempt to cut DT's in it. I would suggest pocket screws. You may want to choose an alternate material because most ply will show voids on the exposed cut surface.

Good-Luck,

Mike

[Von Bickley]

I agree with Mike on the Baltic Birch....

[Jim Becker]

Yes, you can use the Cherry ply, but I'd also go with the BB if I had to use plywood for drawers. It's more an issue of avoiding voids and better holding power for fasteners. I don't prefer dovetails in plywood boxes, so I'd probably use either pocket screws or locking rabbit joinery and false fronts to make the drawers. There is no problem cutting a groove to hold the drawer bottom in this material, BTW. But I do hold a preference for solid wood for drawer sides...

[Ray Schafer]

I would using a locking rabbet.

[Dave Novak]

Thanks guys, I guess it's back to the lumber yard for me. I'd be much happier using solid wood anyway.

[glenn bradley]

BB ply and locking rabbets are my favorite but after the first of the year, there will be no more BB ply in good ole California. We can't have that nasty formaldehyde in our plywood while we're busy dumping tons of garbage into our air. I plan to stock up even at the inflated prices.

[Lee Schierer]

I can get 1/2" yellow poplar pretty inexpensively and I prefer to use it for making drawer sides. It finishes nicely and will make excellent dovetails and doesn't have the drawbacks noted in the other posts regarding the use of plywood. Plywood dovetails tend to chip out and are not very strong due to the alternating grains in the layers. The straight grain of solid wood is much stronger IMO.

[Stan Smith]

BB ply and locking rabbets are my favorite but after the first of the year, there will be no more BB ply in good ole California. We can't have that nasty formaldehyde in our plywood while we're busy dumping tons of garbage into our air. I plan to stock up even at the inflated prices.

Thanks for the heads up; I live in CA,too.

[Stan Smith]

I can get 1/2" yellow poplar pretty inexpensively and I prefer to use it for making drawer sides. It finishes nicely and will make excellent dovetails and doesn't have the drawbacks noted in the other posts regarding the use of plywood. Plywood dovetails tend to chip out and are not very strong due to the alternating grains in the layers. The straight grain of solid wood is much stronger IMO.

Hi Lee. I agree, but I've never seen any 1/2" solid wood around here. I just leave my MM16 setup for resawing. I'm with you on not using plywood dovetails. Personally, I don't think that drawer lock joints with plywood are that strong either, but I could be wrong.

[Peter Quinn]

I prefer solid wood, poplar or maple, even oak, for drawer sides in furniture. Often the parts can be cut from #1 common or a cheaper grade than FAS if you are careful. I have been able to use clear material for sides, less attractive material for backs and prime material for fronts in some cases.

I reserve plywood drawers for kitchen drawers that are on a budget, but really prefer solid wood there too if its my call. Doesn't mean you can't use plywood. I would only use plywood if you are also using mechanical slides as well. 1/2" plywood is strong enough in the direction it needs to be, particularly if you use 1/2" bottoms with a 1/4"X1/4" tongue, glued in to the groove. You could edge band the raw edges, or at least the top edges, with 1/16"-1/8" solid wood edge banding to hide any voids. I'd probably go with an applied front rather than join plywood to solid stock as that might become problematic relative to the different rates of wood movement involved.

I like a locking rabbit, finger joints or even a drawer lock router joint on plywood. Make sure to fully support the cuts if done on a router table with a backer and a piece in front to avoid chip out.