Best router for a table

[Gordy Anderson]

Which one is it? I need to upgrade. I'll be doing a few raised panel doors, not a lot, but some. I'd like as much above the table adjustments as possible, and easy bit changes. Freud has a nice kit available, 2.5 HP, regular and plunge base with an aluminum router plate included, but the slide is jerky. I won't use the slide that much (I don't think), but does it work good in a table? Is 2.5 HP enough?

The Bosch 1617 is about the same price, the Triton looks pretty good too. I think the Milwaukee takes 2 wrenches tochange bits, not sure I'm thrilled about that either. Dewalt has some good reviews, and some bad.

None of them seems perfect, but which has the least evils?

Thanks, Gordy

[jerry nazard]

Gordy,

I have been VERY happy with my Triton 2.25.

-Jerry

[glenn bradley]

Milwaukee 5625 has served me flawlessly.

[Mike Goetzke]

Milwaukee 5625 has served me flawlessly.
+1 with a Woodpeckers Quick Lift

This router uses two wrenches but I like this better than a router with a collet lock and one wrench. On some single wrench models you have to reach under the table to engage the lock.

Mike

(some of the lifts are elgible for MS discount at eBay)

[glenn bradley]

Two wrenches is definitely my preferred method; so controllable, so certain. And with the PRL (save an extra $20 with code LIFT20 this week), plenty of travel for the longest and shortest bits . . . sweet:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94380&thumb=1&d=1218252183

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=89844

[Ron Bontz]

I use a PRL 1/16 pitch with a PC 7518. Never a problem.:)

[Jim Becker]

There is no "best"...but there are several very good choices. Mine was the PC 7518, originally with a Route-R-Lift and now the Bench Dog lift in a Bench Dog cast iron top. The big Milwaukee is also a nice choice. I like big, 15 amp routers dedicated to a table.

[Wayne Cannon]

Beyond common attributes, these features are often overlooked and are missing in many popular heavy-duty routers often recommended for table use:


Significant extension of collet through the base plate.

You want to be able to raise a simple (e.g., a grooving or bull-nose) bit or a cabinet-door cope bit above the table top and above a 5/8"-thick sled plus enough additional to position the cut at the desired height.
It also assists in access for collet wrenches.
Many routers will not even allow the top of the collet to travel flush with the base plate.


Large diameter base opening.

The opening in the router base should be large enough to drop a large diameter multi-profile bit through the opening to select the desired profile from the bit. I've had cases where I wanted to drop a large-diameter panel-raising bit below the table in order to use only a portion of the profile on a thinner panel.
A large diameter base opening also helps with collet-wrench access.



I have a P-C 7518 w/router lift and a Triton 3-1/4 HP mounted in tables.

I've been very happy with both. The Triton has a restricted base opening that I routed out to a larger diameter; and after ten years, I began having speed-control problems with the P-C 7518.

The DeWalt DW725 was highly recommended for router table use, but fails both of my above requirements. As much as I like DeWalt routers, I replaced it with the P-C 7518. I can't speak for other routers.

[Ken Milhinch]

A year or so ago, (before I wised up and bought a shaper), I researched this subject to a standstill and my conclusion was the Milwaukee. Unfortunately this did not assist my cause, as it was not available in Australia.:confused:
That helped push me to a shaper and I have never regretted it - Don't want to start a Shaper Vs Router Table argument here by the way.

I have used the Triton, a large Makita and the big Hitachi in a table and of the three, the Hitachi was my preference, but as you have the Milwaukee available to you, that would be my recommendation.

[scott spencer]

The Freud FT1700 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Freud_FT1700VCEK_2_1_4_Horsepower_Variable_Speed_F ixed_Base_Router/content_411774455428) and FT3000 and Triton MOF001 are the only routers I know of that offer easy above table bit changes with the spindle raised above the table. The FT1700 has an auto collet lock that allows one handed wrenching. Many offer above table height adjustment. I've had great luck with the FT1700...the above table features are great. It's powerful enough to do occasional raised panels but I tend to use my MW5625 for really heavy shaping.

[Michael Conner]

I have not used the Milwaukee, but I can vote for the big Hitachi. I have both the old and new 15 amp routers and both do a great job.

[Tim Malyszko]

I originally was using a Dewalt DW-618 2.25 HP router mounted to a Rockler Aluminum plate and that worked okay, but I ended up burning up the motor after about a year. Fortunately the router was still under warrenty, so Dewalt fixed it.

After that, I purchased the PC-7518 and a Mast-R-Lift and have been very pleased with it. Even though this is my current setup and I am very happy with it, I would agree with Jim that there is no "Best" Setup. My only reccomendation would be to go with a High HP router (and a lift if you have the budget for it).

[John Keeton]

I have the Freud FT3000 and am very pleased. Plenty of power and the above table adjustments work great, although I did adapt a rachet and socket drive which works much better than the provided wrench. It has the one hand bit change feature, as well. Soft start, variable speed.

[John Thompson]

Milwaukee 5625 3 1/2 HP for 6 years and will not be replaced as there is no need to. And I don't use a lift which I find to be no problem what-so-ever with this router.

Sarge..

[Brent Ring]

I am voting here for the Hitachi MV12C - With a WoodPecker lift. I love the power the router - 3.25 hp. It scares me sometimes too! :eek:

[John Eaton]

If you're going to use big bits a lot I'd recommend the largest (most HP) you can afford. I've got a Hitachi 3.25 HP M12 and it's worked out quite well (sawed off the "ears" that're used to hold the guide bushings as they aren't needed and I don't use the router for anything other than the table). I use a router-raizer and bent wrench so I haven't used it with a lift - I don't know if a lift is worth the added expense but to each his own. I use shapers for mouldings so I probably don't use the router table as much as others do but have used it for panel bits and the larger Hitachi has worked flawlessly - no bogging or burn at all.

-- John

[bob pickard]

Before I bought my shaper , I rebuilt two kitchens, built at least 5 panel chests, and did some sidework building doors for a cabinet maker (about ten doors if I remember) and two roll top desks for people , using a PC690 in a cheapo bench top router table. That PC is still going strong after ten years and countless board feet of pine, oak, cherry and poplar wood being run thru it - I don't know if it's the best , but I definately got my money's worth.- Bob

[Ken Garlock]

I use a PRL 1/16 pitch with a PC 7518. Never a problem.:)

Good choice, Ron. I have the same setup in a Woodpecker table top with the Incra LS fence. The offset wrenches are the best 'add-on' I have for the table.

I wish Woodpecker would come out with a cast-iron router top!:(

[Chris Padilla]

I'm with Mike, Ron, Glenn, and Jim: PC7518 motor and I use the Woodpecker PRL although I just bought the new-fangled PRL-V2 (ordered it today) so I may be puttin' up my old PRL for sale soon.

Ken, visit our manufacturer's forum and have those folks (Quality Grinding) whip you up a cast iron router top!

[Homer Faucett]

As far as bang for the buck, the Hitachi M12C is a good table router. The PC is the gold standard that you'll usually pay a premium for. People have said good things about the big Milwaukee. I personally have 2 Ryobi RE 600's that are almost 20 years old now.

If you're not going to do raised panels or swing a 2.5-3" bit, a 2.25 hp router will probably be sufficient. Otherwise, I'd look at one of the 3+ hp routers with variable speed. I've never understood the attraction of using a router lift, and have always found the adjustment on my plunge routers to work just fine when put in a Rockler aluminum plate. Above table bit changes are nice, but I'm not doing production work or switching bits all the time, so it wouldn't bother me to lift the plate out of the table to change the bit every time.

So much of this is preference. I preferred to spend $65 on a used workhorse router and $150 on my plate and table setup, and use the difference on getting some decent bits. So far, I wouldn't change a thing. Maybe after I put another 10 years on these, I'll change my mind. At that time, I'll probably buy a shaper.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Another vote for the P-C 7518 (very much pre Black and Decker unit) , have it installed in a Woodpeckers table and use Woodpeckers Aluminum plate and bent wrenches. .

The big Milwaukee might be a good choice also..

[Joel Goodman]

I would look at Pat Warner's site -- he makes a good case for a fixed base for a router table. I use an old 690 fixed base and am happy to pull it out (unscrew it) to change bits but I'm sure I would pick a larger fixed base if I were shopping for a new router to mount in a router table.

[Chris Padilla]

I've never understood the attraction of using a router lift, and have always found the adjustment on my plunge routers to work just fine when put in a Rockler aluminum plate. Above table bit changes are nice, but I'm not doing production work or switching bits all the time, so it wouldn't bother me to lift the plate out of the table to change the bit every time.

I like the very fine-tuning of bit height that I can get with a "router lift". I can crank 0.001" if I need to with 32 tpi threads controlling that height.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have the 5625 in a PRL - great setup.

[Randy Looney]

I have both a Bosch1617 EVS & 1619 mounted in my router tables and like them both. Going to buy another Bosch 1617 EVS soon for hand routing.

After using a Griz 3 hp shaper I would prefer that over a new router and table.

[Neal Clayton]

i have both the 3.5hp milwaukee and the pc 7518.

the milwaukee i use on the platform mounted on my woodmaster's outfeed for molding rabbets and such, the pc is in a bench dog lift under the table.

power wise, there's little difference. either is more than capable of anything a router might do.

adjustment wise, the milwaukee does have a bottom depth adjustment, but i personally wouldn't trust it over a lift for rail/stile stuff and door panels like you're talking about. someone may have done it and post pics to prove me wrong, but the gear is plastic, i don't think it would hold up over time. rail and stile cutting requires more precision than any router's default adjustment mechanism can easily provide, imo. not saying it can't be done, but it will be tedious to say the least.

the PC has no such mechanism, but alot of lifts are designed around it so it'll fit in just about anything, whereas the milwaukee is quite a bit bigger than the pc and won't fit in alot of lifts.