PDA

View Full Version : Noobie Chuck Question



Raymond Fries
10-15-2008, 7:01 PM
I am just starting to use my Jet 1014 lathe and I want to make some bottle stoppers. To do so, I want to get a 1/2" drill chuck or lathe chuck to hold the mandrel necessary for the metal bottle stoppers. Several people have told me to get a Jacobs chuck because they are really good.

I am having trouble finding one that has a MT2 taper on a short arbor. I found a generic chuck that specifically said it was for the Jet 1014 so I am assuming I need a short arbor for my machine.

Do I really need Jacobs? Do I really need a short arbor?

I would like to be able to use the chuck in the head and tailstock.
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jason Clark2
10-15-2008, 7:20 PM
Try littlemachineshop.com

Either Item #1148 or #1212 and #1804

No affiliation, just a happy customer.

Jason

Pete Jordan
10-15-2008, 7:42 PM
I bought this mandrel from Ruth Niles and it works great! It also taps the stopper.

http://www.torne-lignum.com/stoppers.html

Don Carter
10-15-2008, 8:37 PM
Raymond:
This is probably not going to help you, but I was where you are several months ago. I wound up buying a collet chuck from PSI to hold a shop made mandrel (proper size bolt with the head cut off). It runs very true and holds the blank so that you can shape it including the end.
I don't have any connection to PSI other than that I am a customer.

Ken Fitzgerald
10-15-2008, 8:48 PM
Raymond,

I have a Jet VS Mini....it's the VS version of the 1014. I bought a generic jacobs chuck with a #2 MT from Woodcraft. Make sure you buy one that has a threaded hole in the end of the MT so you can get some 1/4x20 threaded rod and make yourself a draw bar to hold it in place while you are turning with it. If you don't you can chase bottlestoppers, etc around the shop....DAMHIKT...:rolleyes::D

Leo Van Der Loo
10-15-2008, 11:13 PM
Hi Raymond, just like Ken mentioned get one with a treaded hole for a draw bar, so you can tighten it into the headstock, as not only it might/will come free and fling around or even fly out, but also damage your morse taper in the headstock, something you do not want.
Here's a link, it shows a good quality chuck and arbor to use in a lathe for use in head and tailstock.
Oh and if the arbor would be too long, you can saw a piece off and grind the edge down a bit to use it, would not be a problem.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=49251&cat=1,330,49238&ap=1

Scott Conners
10-16-2008, 4:00 AM
If you can afford it, I'd look at getting a PSI Barracuda (CSC2000C) chuck for about $130...it's a complete system with sets of jaws, and you'll find yourself using it ALL the time, for just about everything. That is however, quite a bit more expensive than just a Jacobs chuck.

For stoppers I made my own chuck out of allthread and walnut - I just cut a couple of grooves parallel to the shank in the threads at the end, and it self taps the stoppers. The end of the wood is the same diameter as the stoppers I use. Since I have a scroll chuck (Barracuda 2), I made a wooden chuck with the allthread mounted in the center. You could just as easily make a small wooden washer with all thread through the center, faced off on each end so it stays true.

Chris Barnett
10-16-2008, 10:40 AM
Harbor freight has two chucks with MT2. One is on sale for $6.99, a drill chuck, and the other is a three jaw lathe chuck for $30.

Raymond Fries
10-16-2008, 2:02 PM
Thank you for all of the good tips and links.
I never heard of the draw bar but I will get one made as I really am a safety guy.