Router Table Insert or Not

[Dan Lautner]

I want to use my mdf TS outfeed table to mount my fixed base bosch 1617. I have bought the veritas insert from lee valley but have not yet opened it. I'm not sure what the advantage of an insert like this is. If I permanently mount the bosch fixed base to the the table I'm not sure what the advantage of the insert plate is. I have little experience with router tables so please tell me if I'm missing something here. Thanks for any input.

Thanks, Dan

[Brian Kent]

I bought an insert while making my router table last year, but it was a catch-22 experience. I built the router table so I could learn to use a router, but I do not know enough and don't have enough practice to build a template and rout out the space for the insert.

So I went with Pat Warner's advice and just fastened the router to the table itself. Although I can see the reasoning behind the insert, I am very happy with this set-up.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Dan

Just take into consideration that you are going to lose 3/4" of the bit height (unless you make a recess for the router base to "sit" inside the MDF).

I don't have an Insert but, I think that most of them are 1/4" thick so the loss is only 1/2".

It depends very much on which bit diameters you are going to use. My biggest bit dia is 1¼" so I chucked it to the router and pushed it up slowly until it made the hole in the table top.

If you are using bigger bits (3"~4" like raising panel bit), you would not want to have a 4" hole when you are routing smaller workpieces so, you shall need the Insert with a few round pieces to make the hole smaller (I don't know how they are called).

I used 5/16" - "Floor Panels" that are covered with Formica on both side and that, saved me all the gluing of Formica on the table top. The router is fastened to the Floor panels (Brian, maybe it will give you some ideas)

On the pic below, you can see my so called "Router table" that is actually a counter top mounted on a workmate :o (disregard the "thingy" with the rollers).

Regards
niki
98685

[Gary Lange]

When I bought my Woodpecker insert for the Router Table I built I ordered the template from them that would route the area out necessary for the plate. It worked like a charm.

[Norman Pyles]

When I bought my Woodpecker insert for the Router Table I built I ordered the template from them that would route the area out necessary for the plate. It worked like a charm.
I did the same when I bought my insert from Rockler. Only about 9 bucks.

[Dan Lautner]

Thanks for all the input. I forgot about losing the thickness of the top. I'm still not sure which way to go on this one.

Dan

[Myk Rian]

Put the insert in and be done with it. You'll be glad you did.

[Drew Eckhardt]

I want to use my mdf TS outfeed table to mount my fixed base bosch 1617. I have bought the veritas insert from lee valley but have not yet opened it. I'm not sure what the advantage of an insert like this is. If I permanently mount the bosch fixed base to the the table I'm not sure what the advantage of the insert plate is. I have little experience with router tables so please tell me if I'm missing something here. Thanks for any input.

Thanks, Dan

You can lift the whole plate+router combination out of the table as a unit for bit changes, etc. With a plunge router that can't be separated from its base that's probably worth while. With the quick release mechanism and flyweight aluminum base it's not such a big deal.

I bought a router table + insert combination (Rockler) when I decided that I needed to progress to bits requiring a fence, and if I did it again I'd probably buy a piece of phenolic laminated birch, cut a recess for the router underneath, and cut a recess for inserts on top with counter-sunk brass inserts so I could use machine screws to hold them down.

That would avoid not-flat boards trying to catch on the lip between table and insert and mean the router couldn't move relative to the fence for things like lock miters where depth of cut is real important. Be less expensive too.

You'd get less bit extension (which doesn't matter if you're not trying to change the bit above the table, which can be hard to do depending on where the spindle lock is) but be able to go shallower before the router runs out of travel in the other direction. With the 1/4" aluminum plate and PC890 fixed base I can't cut shallow dados or rabbets using a bit longer than ~1".

[Walt Caza]

Hi Dan,
I wrestled with the same issue, as seen here: (link)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=87977

I have a pair of router tables, but I prefer my barebones table without an insert.
If I need zero clearance, I will make a thin table overlay, and pierce it with the actual cutter.
Good luck with it,
Walt

ps the router in that old thread is also a Bosch 1617evs,
and my 3rd post shows the LV insert, plus a brass insert (note how it scratches like crazy)

[Charles Cannon]

The first table I built I bolted an extra PC 690 base to the bottom of a piece of melamine. I did recess the base in a little more than 1/4 inch. I'am not sure that was nessassary because the arbor will come through the base when adjusted all the way up. I now have a Bench dog extention on my saw that I use most of the time but I don't think it is any better than the old table except the fence is better.
Cannon

[Dan Lautner]

Thanks for all the great info. I have decided to just bolt my router to the mdf and call it a day. I don't see a big advantage to the insert plate for my set up and needs.

Dan

[Peter Quinn]

Are you familiar with Art E Carpenter? I've seen a picture some where of his router table, which was basically a router bolted to a piece of plywood resting on a 50gal steel drum for a base and dust collection, with a jointed 2x4 for a fence. Worked great.

Lifts and inserts are convenient for some things, I have one and use it regularly. I also have a second router table that is essentially a piece of plywood with an extra router base screwed to it (slightly recessed) and a whole in the top, shop made fence. Works great.

Whenever I see the term "ultimate router table" I think of that pic of Art E Carpenter and wonder if it wouldn't be better to pursue "personal best craftsmanship" than 'guy with fancy router table' title? Keep it simple to start with.

[Scott Wigginton]

With an insert I like the ability to stand the router on the table for bit changes & depth adjustment. Saves my back from having to hunch over that much more and try and reach under the table to adjust the router (and my back hurts enough already). If my router had above the table depth adjustment, then it would come down to difficulty of changing the bits from below.

Of course if your insert is not flush you're going to have other issues ,and you can always install it later. Remember to practice the routing the recess on some scrap first!

[glenn bradley]

It all depends on how you will use the table. My problem with no plate (or the Veritas plate for that matter) is the limitation on bit size. For example; with no plate, the first time I enlarge the hole to use a 1-1/2" cutter, I have a hole that is too large to use safely with smaller bits.

I see two Veritas plates, one with a 1-1/2" hole (way too small) and the other does not state the size but looks larger. My drawer-lock bit is 2-1/4", raised panel bits are normally 3"-plus. A plate with inserts allows safe routing with a variety of bits. Just get one with a hole large enough (http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html)to not limit your bit size possibilities.