Need advice on hand saw

[Zahid Naqvi]

As my indulgence in woodworking grows I have come to realise that the cheap utility saw I bought from HD is hardly any good when it comes to jointing. I haven't garnered enough courage to attempt hand cutting dovetails yet (it is in the to do list though), but I did attempt cutting a few tenons for a project I was doing. I was extremely disappointed by the quality of cut from my present saw - granted most of it is due to the lack of technique. Dennis finally convinced me to use dowels for this project (Japanese style folding screen). But I still want to develop some degree of comfort in hand cutting mortise and tenon joints.

So now we come to the actual question I wanted to ask. If I had to buy one (ok maybe two) hand saws primarily for jointing type work, what should I get. Budget is a consideration so let's keep it under $100. I see several hand saws for sale on ebay, are there any older brands I should be keeping an eye on? Or old saws are not worth the effort for a beginner like me. I have read some good things about Japanese saws, are they really as good as they are touted to be.

Thanks for any advice.

[Marc Hills]

Zahid:

Make one more trip to HD. Buy a Nicholson double slim taper file. It has a triangluar cross section. Then haunt ebay, flea markets, whatever your pleasure and look for a couple of older Disston, Spear and Jackson or equivalent back saws; one with a blade in the 10-14 inch range, and a smaller one with a blade 8 to 10 inches in length.

Stay away from anything with a brass spine or an open (pistol grip) handle; they are generally considered more collectable and are priced accordingly. Things to look for are a straight blade and a description including the words "warranted cast steel". Look for brass, as opposed to steel nuts affixing the handle to the saw blade. It isn't a foolproof indicator, but it generally suggests an older saw, which is ususally of higher quality. Finally, pay attention to how the profile of the handle has been milled. Older saws are more fully rounded, whereas newer saw handles are more angular. The older saws are a delight to hold in spite of coming from a time long before the word "ergonomic" was invented.

Remember you've a Japanese screen project under your belt, so the next part will not be that hard for you. Google the web, search the forum archives or ask again here when you are ready; but locate some basic saw filing instructions.

My advice (Bob S. will disagree) is to sharpen both saws with a rip tooth profile. First of all sharpening rip teeth is easier than getting a good cross cut profile and it has been my experience that cutting tenons is much, much easier with a rip cut saw; it's those long cheek cuts where the rip teeth really shine.

This would be something like what you want for the smaller saw:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13875&item=3293340945&rd=1

And here is something like what I'm suggesting for the larger.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13875&item=3292301666&rd=1

HTH

[Zahid Naqvi]

Marc,

Thanks for your advice, I will start hunting the net.

[Scott Quesnelle]

My suggestion is similar to Marc's.

Go here:
http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=main&right=/library/library.html

Read the primer on hand filing a saw. Note the right sized file for different saws.

Go to Sears.

Craftsman 16 in. Back Saw
Sears item #00936166000
Mfr. model #36016 $9.99

Check the teeth. If it is one where the teeth are a different colour than the rest of the blade, forget it. This is a blade that cannot be resharpened. If the teeth are good. Get the right file for that saw, and get a small mill file as well.

Take the saw home. Remove the handle.

Sharpen the saw itself.

Remove the finish that is on the handle. Then reshape then handle to be comfy in your hand. Use rasps, scrapers, sandpaper whatever. Start by rounding the edges that you have to hold. Then just keep going until you find it comfortable.

Re-assemble the saw and start cutting. If you mess it up.. you are out $10 and have probably learned a fair bit. And heck you can still cut the blade up into scrapers if you totally mess it up.

I would still keep your eyes open for good old saws, but nothing wrong with learning on new cheap saws.

Scott Quesnelle

[Stan Smith]

If I had to pick one single saw (that cuts with precision) it would be a Japanese ryoba saw (from Japan Woodworker-they have a website, but I go to their store in Alameda, CA). I also have a dozuki and some other saws including a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw (the creme of the crop, IMHO).