New bandsaw miter gauge?

[Niels J. Larsen]

I own a Hammer N4400 bandsaw, and while I'm very satisfied with the saw, the optional miter gauge is useless.

It wobbles in the miter channel, the miter bar is way too short, and it's just not precise enough.

Lo and behold a quick internet search led me to Incra's website.
My hopes were high and I actually thought I found the holy grail of miter gauges....:D

Then I realised that the miter channel on my bandsaw is not of the North American standard (3/4"x3/8"), but a mere 5mmx15mm :rolleyes:

After a quick e-mail conversation with Incra, I now need to get a machinist to machine a new custom miter bar or else I won't be able to use any of their miter gauges.

So, to the questions:

1) What have those of you who own a bandsaw with a non-North American miter channel done with regards to an upgraded miter gauge?

2) Are there any alternatives to the Incra products of equal or better quality?

Thanks,
Niels

[Chris Padilla]

What about getting a machine shop to adjust the size of the miter channel on your top?

[Bill White]

I would not cut the cast iron for any reason if the saw were mine. Sometimes there are internal stresses that will rear their ugly heads. Sure don't want a warped top.
A qualified machine shop can put the miter bar on a surface grinder and get you where ya need to be.
Bill

[Chris Padilla]

Cutting down the miter bar on an Incra will not work due to its design (it has tensioners built-in to snug it in the channel). Another idea is to remove Incra's miter and make your own out of some stable hardwood like quarter-sawn oak.

[Matt Benton]

You could build your own table, then put a standard miter slot anywhere you want...

[Niels J. Larsen]

You could build your own table, then put a standard miter slot anywhere you want...

Are you talking about a new over-the-existing-table, table made of wood?

If so, wouldn't I run into trouble with the miter channel wearing down?

[John Thompson]

Peachtree WW sells a miter bar alone for around $14 I believe.. It may be possible to use the Incra head and that bar? I have both down in the shop and will take a look as soon as the finish fumes from a coffee table clear into the next county.. :)

Sarge..

[Chris Padilla]

Are you talking about a new over-the-existing-table, table made of wood?

If so, wouldn't I run into trouble with the miter channel wearing down?

Not if you go this route (http://www.woodpeck.com/tmiterchannel.html)! :) The gold ones are decently discounted, too!

This one (http://www.woodpeck.com/combotrack.html) is a bit more versatile.

[Niels J. Larsen]

Sounds appealing, but if I make an add-on wooden table, how will I make the rip fence work?

I just assume that the add-on table should be mounted somewhat permanently.

Otherwise I would have to take it on whenever I need the miter gauge, and off every time I need the rip fence - right?

[Bruce Page]

If it were me, I'd either find a longer 5mmX15mm bar and modify it to fit the Incra (or other brand) or modify your existing bar to fit. Adding a secondary table creates its own problems.

[Tom Veatch]

I would not cut the cast iron for any reason if the saw were mine. ...

Agree. The 3/4x3/8 slot is about .178 deeper and .159 wider than the 15x5 slot. I don't know how much beef there is around the slot in the table, but cutting that much away would make me nervous.

One thing that comes to mind is cutting a strip of UHMW to the proper size and using that as a miter bar but that might not be stiff enough.

Another possiblility might be a trip to the local salvage yard for a piece of oversized (relative to the 5 x 15 mm dimension) aluminum extrusion. Aluminum could be machined to the 5x15 dimensions with woodworking tools without great difficulty. Small set screws in the side of the bar could give some lateral adjustment.

[Doug Shepard]

Wouldn't the bars for Hammer's TS miter gauges be the same size but longer? Can you get just the bar from them? If you're trying to use an Incra V27 on the BS, it's worth effort of making one work. The gauge hat came with my MM16 is also useless and I switched to a V27 and love it.

[Bruce Page]

Agree. The 3/4x3/8 slot is about .178 deeper and .159 wider than the 15x5 slot. I don't know how much beef there is around the slot in the table, but cutting that much away would make me nervous.

One thing that comes to mind is cutting a strip of UHMW to the proper size and using that as a miter bar but that might not be stiff enough.

Another possiblility might be a trip to the local salvage yard for a piece of oversized (relative to the 5 x 15 mm dimension) aluminum extrusion. Aluminum could be machined to the 5x15 dimensions with woodworking tools without great difficulty. Small set screws in the side of the bar could give some lateral adjustment.
I did the math too and agree. Providing the casting was beefy enough, I think you could get away with opening up the width by taking .080 from each side but removing nearly 3/16" from the bottom would be a show stopper.

[Niels J. Larsen]

Agree. The 3/4x3/8 slot is about .178 deeper and .159 wider than the 15x5 slot. I don't know how much beef there is around the slot in the table, but cutting that much away would make me nervous.

One thing that comes to mind is cutting a strip of UHMW to the proper size and using that as a miter bar but that might not be stiff enough.

Another possiblility might be a trip to the local salvage yard for a piece of oversized (relative to the 5 x 15 mm dimension) aluminum extrusion. Aluminum could be machined to the 5x15 dimensions with woodworking tools without great difficulty. Small set screws in the side of the bar could give some lateral adjustment.

I looked at the table and it doesn't look as if there's enough beef to have the slot made bigger.

UHMW - I don't know that material, but it seems to be some kind of plastic. Is it another name for Delrin?

Can it be drilled and tapped without any problems?

If I were to find an oversized aluminium extrusion, how could I machine it down to size and still keep the sides parallel?
I don't have a tablesaw, but I do own a Festool TS-55 and MTF table.

[Doug Shepard]

...
UHMW - I don't know that material, but it seems to be some kind of plastic. Is it another name for Delrin?

Can it be drilled and tapped without any problems?
...


IMHO no. While you can probably drill and tap OK, it will distort under pressure. So tightening anything into will cause it to bulge and possibly cause the threads to loosen up over time too. Not too sure about Delrin althought it may be harder and better suited, but it's not the same as UHMW.

[Greg Cole]

Delrin is a bunch harder than UHMW, FWIW. Either is easy to machine. Some of the nylons blends are pretty hard & are oil impregnated for lubrication against excess wear as well.
UHMW will mushroom around holes, but you can drill and tap it... but be gentle tightening the fastener DAMKHIT. :rolleyes: I have a stron dislike for threads cut into plastic in general, but for a miter bar it'd be "OK".
I'd go with a piece of aluminum.... McMaster Carr has 5mm x 15mm in stock for $1 a foot, how's that for cheap? Thread in a couple of plastic set screws to make it sit nice n snug in it and you're good to go.

Greg