Band Saw Blade Tension Timberwolf on Rikon 14"

[Brian Tax]

Hello, I bought a Rikon 14" Deluxe band saw a few months ago and I have been experimenting with blades, cuts, etc. I have a 1/2" Timberwolf on right now, and I am trying the flutter method and I have no idea if I am doing it right. The instructions saw to stand at the head of the saw? What does that mean? I am assuming it is standing looking directly at the teeth as you would while making a cut. I wish they had a video on their website. By the way the tension gage is useless, adjusting the tracking totally messes up the tension needle.

Also since I am new to Band Saws, how good of a cut can I expect? I have tried resawing and the cuts are OK, but will still require plaining. I have read several books, but it is hard to tell.

Any tips on the flutter method, band saw tips, etc. are greatly appreciated, Brian

[Bill White]

I use one (1/2" resaw). They are somewhat lower tension blades, so ya don't need to crank 'em down too tight.
I use a 1/4" blade for general use. Finer teeth, and easier to turn.
Bill

[Chris Padilla]

Also since I am new to Band Saws, how good of a cut can I expect? I have tried resawing and the cuts are OK, but will still require plaining. I have read several books, but it is hard to tell.

Here are some test cuts using a 1" Timberwolf on a chunk of fir (an old beam from a house). You can see the cut lines that will need sanded and/or planed down a bit.

[Brian Tax]

Thanks, that helps, I don't think mine are that good, but close. I think that I may be rocking the piece a bit while cutting, especially when I reposition my hands. Some areas are very good, but sometimes I have more saw marks. Thanks for the help.

[glenn bradley]

Are you following the instructions on the Suffolk site? I believe in a nutshell you back all your guide off (as in completely away from the blade), fire up the saw and loosen the blade slowly until it begins to flutter. Tighten 1/4 turn at a time until it stabilizes; that's your setting. Once I get the setting for each blade, I jot down the setting (very subjective) as a reference. I have no trouble when I de-tension or re-tension with my saw's quick release but I re-check when I change blades.

[Charlie Plesums]

... By the way the tension gage is useless, adjusting the tracking totally messes up the tension needle.

Brian
The tension gauge might be correct for one particular thickness of blade (on my saw it is for a blade .019 inches thick, but I have never seen a blade that thin - most are about .035), so many people say it is useless and others say it is perfect... guess it depends on whether your blade matches the thickness used at the factory. BUT on many bandsaws adjusting the tracking messes up the tension... you need to check tension when you change tracking, and check tracking when you change tension.

Flutter method is standing looking at the teeth, with no guides touching the blade, and increase tension until the flutter stops (or decrease until it starts). The minimum tension is just a little tighter than that. Timberwolf blades like running at minimum tension - other blades like more.


...
Also since I am new to Band Saws, how good of a cut can I expect? I have tried resawing and the cuts are OK, but will still require plaining. I have read several books, but it is hard to tell.

Brian

On my 14 inch bandsaw, I was able to resaw 4 of 5 boards so that light planing or heavy sanding finished the job. But I could never count on the fifth board being less than scrap. So I got a 24 inch commercial bandsaw, with a carbide blade, and now have no reservation about resawing - I routinely make shop-cut veneer, and will saw off 3/16 inch rather than making the noise, dust and effort of planing. Normally only light sanding is required - sometimes I don't do anything before gluing the veneer, then sand the show side after it is laminated.

So the bottom line is there are two questions... what can you expect with an inexpensive bandsaw, or what can an expert (such as Sam Blasco) expect with a very good bandsaw and blade.

[Michael Faurot]

By the way the tension gage is useless . . .


I think that's normal for most saws, unless it comes with a means to actually measure the tension. Think of it more as reference marks, than a definitive way to tension the blade.



Also since I am new to Band Saws, how good of a cut can I expect? I have tried resawing and the cuts are OK, but will still require plaining.


With a typical 3TPI blade, the cut will be somewhat rough and require planing--that's normal.

[Robert Parrish]

I just bought that exact saw and I was having trouble getting the right tension, I broke an Olson 1/4" blade. The tension scale is not accurate according to Rikon, they told me that different types of steel blades would register differently on the scale. They also told me to use the 1/4" deflection method to set tension. I just ordered the Wood Slicer from Highland and will try to resaw with it. To be honest I have been trying to resaw wood with a bandsaw for 30 years or so and have not had very good luck. If the wood is 6" or less I use my table saw.

[Tom Esh]

... I am assuming it is standing looking directly at the teeth as you would while making a cut.

Directly in front of or behind the blade (depending on the lighting) is usually the easiest place to spot the flutter. It will look much like a guitar string does when plucked. With some blades it may even be audible.

[Dave Sweeney]

......... The tension scale is not accurate according to Rikon, they told me that different types of steel blades would register differently on the scale. They also told me to use the 1/4" deflection method to set tension.

Rikon CS also told me to use the ¼" deflection method when I called to inquire as to why the tension gauge wasn't working as it should. I love the 10-325 but for $850 the tension gauge should work properly!:(

[Chris Padilla]

I don't think any of the tension scales on BS are any good once it leaves the factory. Once you establish a good setting on a particular blade (I know, I know the crux of the whole thread), you can then reference the tension scale for that particular blade.

[Robert Parrish]

If the manufacturer is going to include a feature on a tool and then advertise the benefits of that feature, it should work as described! It's not nice to fool us old folks!

[Brian Tax]

Last night I practiced the Flutter method for the T-Wolf blade, I think that I got it. I practiced re-sawing veneer from scraps of Maple down to about 1/16", by the end I was getting pretty good results, the pieces will require some sanding, but not that much. It is remarkable how little tension is actually required. This is subjective, but with the lower tension the saw seemed to be much happier, sounded better, tracked better, etc. I guess thread talking about not needing to use as much tension are correct, this is just my humble opinion from limited experience. From not on I will start out with lower tension and only increase it if necessary.

Thanks, Brian