Recommendations please

[Herman Westendorp]

Just got a Powermatic PM2000 1Phase 3HP. It doesn't come with a blade. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a 10" dado blade set for it. I've never owned/worked with one before. Would I still need other blades for ripping and cross cutting?

Thanks,
Herm

[David DeCristoforo]

I don't want to insult you but you need to do some serious reading before you start working on this machine. Your question indicates a very limited understanding of the basic functions of the tool which puts you in serious danger. You might start with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Table-Saw-Book-Completely-Revised/dp/1561584266

To answer your question, yes you need additional blades. A dado set is a specialized set of blades and is not suitable for general ripping and/or crosscutting

[Rick Fisher]

I have the Freud Dado set. Its worth about $100.00 ??

For that saw, I would go with an 8" set.

You will still need a ripping blade and a cross cut blade.

There are lots of different choices for saw blade manufacturers. I use Freud. A buddy just got a Forrest.

BTW. That is a real nice saw you got.

Welcome to the board.

BTW. I agree with the second poster. Do some reading on safety, kick back etc.

[glenn bradley]

A dado set is for dado's only so you will want other blades. I am very happy with the SD508 for dado, Freud 24 tooth for ripping, Freud 80 tooth for crosscutting and I use a Forrest WWII 40 tooth for general purpose. I have several other blades and some dupes of these to keep me going when their twins are out for sharpening.

Some folks are OK with a general purpose blade for pretty much everything. My work took a jump up once I started using task specific blades. It takes less than a minute to change blades and I have zero clearance inserts and splitters for all of them. This works for me . . . Caution . . . I am not you ;-)

[Herman Westendorp]

David, no insult taken, I guess I should have rephrased my question. I've worked with table saws, just not Dado sets. This particular tablesaw is new for me (I won it about a year ago) and am just setting it up in a new shop. We were moving at the time and work in the new home prevented me from getting to it sooner. Thanks for the reply, I think I'll pass on the book. I've already got one. :)
Herm

[Herman Westendorp]

Rick, if the saw takes 10" blades why use an 8" dado and not a 10", or even a 6" for that matter?
Herm :confused:

[glenn bradley]

Rick, if the saw takes 10" blades why use an 8" dado and not a 10", or even a 6" for that matter?
Herm :confused:

I imagine if you check the manual a 10" dado set is too large/heavy for your saw. The difference between 6" and 8" (among other things like tooth speed) is the depth of cut. I often use my dado with a crosscut sled (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59691&d=1173332176)so a 6" would not really leave me much to work with. Your saw will have no trouble spinning an 8" set.

[Rick Fisher]

I imagine if you check the manual a 10" dado set is too large/heavy for your saw. The difference between 6" and 8" (among other things like tooth speed) is the depth of cut. I often use my dado with a crosscut sled (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59691&d=1173332176)so a 6" would not really leave me much to work with. Your saw will have no trouble spinning an 8" set.

+1

A 10" would run better on a 5hp saw. Still not needed. I own an 8" and a 6". The 8" makes a better cut. I have always felt it was because its cutting faster.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Herman

Welcome to the Creek!


For the most part, because of the greater mass a stacked blade setup presents, an 8" is generally recommended. Generally speaking, you won't be cutting dados the full depth that a 10" table saw is capable of cutting. Therefore, the 2" difference between an 8" and 10" set only present a bigger mechanical load for the saw and would seldom be used. The 10" will probably cost more....and you generally won't use it to it's fullest capacity.

[James Williams 007]

I have the Freud stack dado set from HD it cuts just as good as the 300 dollar set my buddy uses and I only paid 100 go figure. I like the freud blades they give me smooth results but i must be fair and say I havent tried the Forrest blades when its time to get this one sharpened I am going to get the Woodworker II by Forrest. Nice saw with some nice features.

[Gregg Feldstone]

I have the Freud SD 600 and it cuts very cleanly. I wish I had spent a litte extra and got the SD 608 Dial-a-Width set. I think it would be much easier to use than shims.
I put a dial indicator to all the shims in my set to label them and discovered that most of them were not exactly the indicated thicknesses. Has anyone else noticed this?
Think I should ask Freud for a more accurate shim set, if they even make one?

[Jack Camillo]

Already stated - get an 8" dado. You don't necessarily need a rip and crosscut blade. A combination blade, like the Woodworker II is great for both operations. This way you don't need to change the blade everytime you change from ripping to crosscutting, which for me is quite often. Good luck with your new saw. I have the same with no complaints.
On the 8" or 10" dado set question - check the manual - I believe it says not to use larger than an 8" dado set.

[William Hutchinson]

Just got a Powermatic PM2000 1Phase 3HP. It doesn't come with a blade. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a 10" dado blade set for it. I've never owned/worked with one before. Would I still need other blades for ripping and cross cutting?

Thanks,
Herm


FYI: Taken from PM2000 Manual

Specifications
Model number .................................................. .................................................. .................................... 2000
Stock Number
3HP, 230V, 60Hz, 1 Phase, 3600 RPM, TEFC .................................................. ......................... 1791999
5HP, 230V, 60Hz, 1 Phase, 3600 RPM, TEFC .................................................. ......................... 1791998
5HP, Prewired 230V (for 460V see Note below), 60Hz, 3 Phase, 3600 RPM, TEFC................. 1791997
Table size with standard extensions (L x W/in.).............................................. .............................. 42 x 30 1/2
Table size without extensions (L x W/in.).............................................. ........................................ 22 x 30 1/2
Arbor diameter (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ............................... 5/8
Saw blade diameter (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ......................... 10
Arbor speed (RPM) .................................................. .................................................. ............................ 4300
Left tilt range .................................................. .................................................. ...................................... 0–45
Maximum depth of cut (in.)............................................. ................3-1/8 at 90-degrees; 2-1/8 at 45-degrees
Maximum diameter of dado (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ............... 8
Maximum width of dado cut (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ........ 13/16
Drive system .................................................. .................................................. ............................ Poly-V Belt
Table height to floor (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ...................34-1/2
Dust port diameter (in.) .................................................. .................................................. ............................ 4
Shipping weight (saw only) .................................................. ............All Models: Net: 540 lbs, Gross: 604 lbs

[Jason Roehl]

Can you guys imagine using a 10" dado stack at full height? A ~3 1/8" deep dado? Yikes! :eek:

[scott spencer]

8" dado sets are much more common, less expensive, and should provide all the depth of cut you're likely to ever need for a dado.

In general, as with regular blades, more teeth tends to equate to a cleaner cut if all other parameters are equal. The higher tooth sets of comparable quality tend to cost a little more. The top contenders are typically the Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Freud, Forrest...Amana, Systimatic, and CMT have excellent offerings too.

I've tried the Freud SD208 (12T/2T), DeWalt DW7670 (24T/4T), Systimatic (42T/6T) Superfine, and the Infinity Dadonator (24T/6T). All were good, but the Dadonator is easily the best I've used, and it's design has some advantages. It has a low hook angle that minimizes tearout, 20° bevel on the ATB teeth on the cutters (which is fairly steep for a dado set) combined with a flat raker to minimize the effects of bat ears, so the bottom is darn nearly truly flat without the tearout issues of using an all FTG design. The Dadonator also has 6T chippers which offer 50% more teeth than most in this price range, so it tends to have smooth bottoms.

[Herman Westendorp]

Thank you Rick and Glen for your great answers. You have made my choice almost blatantly obvious.

Herm

[Herman Westendorp]

Thanks William for posting the specs from the manual. I would have referred to them eventually, but wanted to hear reasons pro/con from other woodworkers first.

Herm

[Eric Larsen]

Otherwise known as, "The Wood Launcher"

Let's see Adam and Jamie tackle THAT on the next episode of Mythbusters:

Jamie: So why are you wearing an apron?

Adam: Today's myth comes from our woodworking viewers. They say it is possible to launch a 4x4 THROUGH a concrete block wall, by pushing it into a 10" dado blade set to full height....

Jamie: Sounds dangerous!


Can you guys imagine using a 10" dado stack at full height? A ~3 1/8" deep dado? Yikes! :eek:

[Rob Damon]

Herman,

Whichever dado set you end up getting, don't forget that you will need a "dada insert" to replace the standard insert that comes with the saw.

Rob

[Vince Shriver]

Herman,

Whichever dado set you end up getting, don't forget that you will need a "dada insert" to replace the standard insert that comes with the saw.

Rob

Good point. Also you'll need some shims if the set doesn't come with them.

[Mike Heidrick]

Brian gumper listed an 8" dado stack and a bunch of other blades on clearence on woodnet yesterday at his site holbren dot com. I would try the for sale section on woodnet.

[Peter Quinn]

Otherwise known as, "The Wood Launcher"

Let's see Adam and Jamie tackle THAT on the next episode of Mythbusters:

Jamie: So why are you wearing an apron?

Adam: Today's myth comes from our woodworking viewers. They say it is possible to launch a 4x4 THROUGH a concrete block wall, by pushing it into a 10" dado blade set to full height....

Jamie: Sounds dangerous!

I am laughing so loud i nearly peed! I worked with a straight line rip saw that has 'hoggers' on the out side of each blade when set up for a single gang rip that are essentially 1 1/4" dado stacks to turn much of the waste into chips. This is a 25HP machine with a noise/chip shroud, massive anti-kickback protection and carpet feed, 14" blades, and still it occasionally coughs out a sticker. Yeah, 1" dado at full height on a 10" TS, not good.

One note to Herman, most 10" dados I've used also have a 1" arbor. Those blade manufacturers are tricky like that. Of course you could bush them down, but that won't make them fit your saw's internals. A 10" dado is appropriate for a 12-14" saw, like a big TS or my RAS. It is not intended to be used full height obviously, just needs to be bigger to reach from the center of a larger diameter arc.

I like forest and freud for dados, as those are the main ones I have used. I hear others are good too, like Infinity, Amana and CMT.

[Nick Mastropietro]

Herm;
I too own a PM2000 and love it. I purchased a Freud SD208 8" dado set and am very satisfied with it. I addiionally purchased a Freud P410 Premier Fusion blade for combination cutting. Tenryu make some really nice blades as well, I own these blades for specific cutting ie. crosscutting and ripping. Just my 2cents.

[Jacob Mac]

I have the Ridge Carbide Dado Master, and it is fantastic. I got it from Holbrens, so I got 10% off and free shipping. I am really pleased with the quality of the dado.

With that said, I am always really nervous when I cut dados on my TS. It seems like an awful lot of lost fingers can be atrtributed to accidents involving dado blades. So be sure to use every necessary precaution.

[Prashun Patel]

I've fallen victim to this too, but check the date on Herman's post. He probably made his decision a while ago.

Too bad, though, I hear Lowes is GIVING the Freud SD208's away....

[Alex Leslie]

I have the 8" Forrest Dado King on my 5hp Jet TS and it works great. I made my own dado inserts by cutting plywood to the rough size of the plate and then screwing it to my factory insert and routing it with an edge trimming bit. They fit perfectly and can be shimmed to level the TS top with four small screws.

I'd be very careful with the dado blade - a friend lost two fingers to one about fifteen years ago in my town. He was not using a push stick or block.

[Sean Hughto]

I have the Forrest 8" set, and can't imagine anything better (equal maybe?):

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/category_3_Dado_King.html