Proper Rail and Stile?

[Mark Kelly]

What is the "preferred" method of rail and stile joinery on cabinet doors? I know there are all sorts of router bits to do different joints as well as pocket hole screws. Mitered and splined joints also come to mind.

Since I haven't done this type of joinery yet, but expect to do quite a bit over the next few years, I wanted to do a little research into what people like the best. It may help me in deciding which direction I wish to go.

Thanks!

[Tom Hintz]

I use router bit sets for raised panel doors, tongue and groove, mortise and tenon, it depends on where I am putting the doors and the look I want.
I have stories on these and other construction techniques (with photos) that might give you a better idea. See the links below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/bldraspnldors.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/bldtgdoor.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/bldarchpnldrs.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/tipsmortenon.html

[Jim Becker]

If you want some form of edge design other than purely a straight tongue and grove cope, you'll need to use cutters on the router. For the simple, straight T&G, you can actually cut everything at the table saw with a dado.

I use the cutters on the router table as I use a 15º bevel shaker cope design for most of my frame and panels.

[Chris Padilla]

If I read your post carefully, Mark, you seem to be asking how to best join the rails and stiles together of a typical panel (raised or not).

Glue. Really, it is that simple. I like to glue and clamp them. No glue in the grooves where the panel sits, of course. Further, I like to use these somewhat squishy foam 'spaceballs' to put into the grooves to ensure the panel doesn't rattle as the panel expands and contracts. I also like to finish the panel before insertion into the frame.

[Fred LeBail]

Mark , I always use mortise & tenon joinery on my doors. I also use M&T on all my frame and panel construction, which is usually all 4 sides.The sides usually have raised panels as well as the doors and the backs are a veneer of the same wood as the sides in a frame construction.
You can get an attachment for your drill press or buy a mortise machine.
I hope this helps.
Fred

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Mark
Lets ask first off -
Where are you going to use these rail and stile joints?
I'm working on two blanket chests and so fancy rail and stile is what I am designing - not even flush rail and stile but fancy and different and raised end stiles and flush muntins - ah! well - just fancy!

Are you making a "shaker" cupboard? Now you want a different type of rail and stile and most likely mortise and tenon. Other folks will suggest other methods for shaker.

Are you making kitchen cabinets - then pocket hole is reasonable.

So you see what I am saying and the other fellows are saying - the project just might dictate the type of rail and stile joint.

I know - I've muddied the waters and you can't see the bottom of the "Saw Mill Creek". eh!
Daniel :D

[Mark Kelly]

Well, I was asking more of a basic muddy question then! Initially, I need to make doors for a side cabinet, then comes doors for cabinets in the shop. I don't have any router bits for this nor a pocket-hole jig. I was asking for my knowledge before I go and buy something inappropriate or expensive.

I am thinking that I might go the mortise and tenon way for now. Should be able to pull that off pretty quick with a mortise chisel or drilling the holes and cleaning it with a chisel. And I don't have to buy any new tools for it (I know, that's almost a sin to say I am not going to need a new tool, but I am a firm believer in only buying what you need.)

What are you using on your 'fancy' rail and stile for your blanket chests?

[larry merlau]

What is the "preferred" method of rail and stile joinery on cabinet doors? I know there are all sorts of router bits to do different joints as well as pocket hole screws. Mitered and splined joints also come to mind.

Since I haven't done this type of joinery yet, but expect to do quite a bit over the next few years, I wanted to do a little research into what people like the best. It may help me in deciding which direction I wish to go.

Thanks!
i have used the frued stile and rail set on the attached chest and it worked fine, cmt makes a good set as well, actually cmt used to supply frued with some of there bits.

[Jim Hill 2]

I'm approaching your question from a beginner’s point of view since I'm just a step ahead of you. My advice would be to start simple and inexpensively. I added to my skill base and tool base as I had a need. I was asked to make some built in cabinets for a friend and picked up a rail & style bit set to make the doors. I would not recommend doing this unless you already have a router table, it's simply not safe doing it freehand. Mortise and tendon joints are simple, strong and don't have to be expensive. A mortising chisel and a jig for your table saw will have you working in no time. This jig would also work for lapped joints! A dado blade would accomplish the same thing. You might also want to speed the process of making mortises by using a straight bit in a router with a jig. I took this approach to start with and saved up for a hollow bit mortiser. I can rip out a face frame in one session in the shop, which would have been unthinkable without it.
Now my standard approach is to make the face frame with mortise and tendon and the doors with the rail & style bits. I know everyone prefers something a little different, but I hope this helps. :o


Jim

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Mark
In reply to your question about the fancy rails and stiles for the blanket chests that I am working on.
Just a regular rail and stile set but inset rails and muntins so that there is extra space above the panels. Hence I can take a long look at my router bits and dream (or is it daydream).
Anyway, I then took a 5/16/ ogee bit and removed the bearing and lines it up, cut the stiles next to the "stile bit cuts" but ended up with a cove --- so OK. Now I have a cove leading down to the "stile cut".
Now to go on from here. I have to look further for somemore fancy bits in my collection.
Should I round off the interior corner of the stiles so that you don't hurt your hand when putting things into the chest --- Yea! I think I will. BUT not the outside corners
I've been daydreaming about how the bottom board will fit onto the box.
And then there is the feet. What to do -- what to do?
And you folks think that I use plans? Ha! It's all in my mind and I note it as I build it.
I know! I know! Photos, photos, photos, - but then again maybe you folks don't want to see this mess.
Daniel :D

[Jerry Olexa]

For simplicity and fairly small $ investment, go router bits (there ate sets specifically for R&S raised panel for about $100) and of course, a router table. It becomes so simple and easy to do, you'll find yourself doing lots of raised panel work and as you amortize your investment, it becomes cheaper each time. This way is also much faster than mortise/tenon. Good Luck Jerry

[David Rose]

Hey Daniel, I for one want to see your "mess". :) I'm always open to new ideas, and I'm about to start a blanket chest with details not fully worked out yet. Please give some closeups on the rail/stile/panel assemblies so I can better understand.

David


Mark
In reply to your question about the fancy rails and stiles for the blanket chests that I am working on.
Just a regular rail and stile set but inset rails and muntins so that there is extra space above the panels. Hence I can take a long look at my router bits and dream (or is it daydream).
Anyway, I then took a 5/16/ ogee bit and removed the bearing and lines it up, cut the stiles next to the "stile bit cuts" but ended up with a cove --- so OK. Now I have a cove leading down to the "stile cut".
Now to go on from here. I have to look further for somemore fancy bits in my collection.
Should I round off the interior corner of the stiles so that you don't hurt your hand when putting things into the chest --- Yea! I think I will. BUT not the outside corners
I've been daydreaming about how the bottom board will fit onto the box.
And then there is the feet. What to do -- what to do?
And you folks think that I use plans? Ha! It's all in my mind and I note it as I build it.
I know! I know! Photos, photos, photos, - but then again maybe you folks don't want to see this mess.
Daniel :D

[Chris Padilla]

Bring on the mess! Bring on the mess!! :D

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Dave Rose
I have the following magazines in hand for blanket chest plans - plus assorted photos out of catalogs and other magazines (not plans)
American Woodworker # 99 March 2003
WOOD # 142 June/July 2002
Woodworkers Journal vol 28 # 2 April 2004
So what did that get me - an average of lengths, heights, and widths.
Styles of construction, etc.
After rejecting all of them - you go out and buy $150.00 of red oak. Bring it home and then try to remember why you bought 5/4 and 7/4 lumber - drat, it's tough getting old.
I'll get the photos together later
But for simplicity, I just take the router bits that I have available and start by placing them on the end of the wood to see what they look like.
"The brain is willing" but "the mind is gone".
Daniel :D

[David Rose]

Daniel, I bought some cherry to do the blanket chest that we finally settled on. Or I should say *she* settled on. I selected carefully to make sure of the s2s being straight enough and thick enough to finish to 3/4". All at once a new chest showed up. Beautiful and enough details worked out, that I liked, to make me want to do a variant of it too. And woodn't ya know... the plan calls for mostly 13/16" wood! So here we go refiguring what cutters I have or need to alter the plans to 3/4". Emphasis of course being on "what I have". But I guess those challenges are part of the fun... for a hobbiest. :o

David