Long rip - how to?

[Randall Scott Smith]

All,

I'm wondering if anyone has advice for me on how to rip a 4/4 hard maple board down to 2/4. The board is about 10"x20". I was going to try with a rip saw, but figured there might be another (ie, better) way. I don't have a band saw, and even if I did I doubt it would handle a board that large, so I'm looking for a hand-tool solution.

Any thoughts?

Randy

PS - sorry for such a newbie question, but I'm just learning. :confused:

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Randall,

A couple ways. One is to make yourself a great framed saw with a really thin, highly tensioned blade. Still, there will be waste from the kerf, wandering and most likely some warpage or cupping once it is sawn--even if you used a band saw.

Another is to accept that you will not be able to end up with 1/2" thick pieces anyway and use a table saw to establish a nice kerf down each edge (wood is pushed through on each side upgright on the table saw). It takes a few passes on each side to get very deep. This establishes a great kerf for a hand saw to follow.

Again, either way you will end up with two boards not 1/2" thick and will need to "fix" any cupping/twist issues once the wood moves. Stickering them and weighting the boards (don't let the weight sit directly on the top board) and letting them rest for a week or so afterwards may minimize how much they move.

Take care, Mike

[Pedro Reyes]

Resawing is to me one of the harder handtool tasks. I have tried (with limited success) to resaw smaller pieces of 4/4, I usually end up shy of 3/8" but proud of 1/4". I have to guess that a more experienced neander may do better.

I use a frame saw, usually holding the board vertical at an angle so I start my cut in a corner, I keep flipping this board until the cuts meet at the endgrain face on both ends. From there is it is a struggle to track to the previously gauged line. But again this is on a 4' board at best, maybe 6" wide. I have even used a Ryoba on smaller stuff.

Again, for me this is difficult, reason why my first power tool is going to be a Bandsaw.

/p

[Frank Drew]

Randy,

The resulting boards will probably want to cup but stacking them immediately after cutting with stickers in between and weight on top might allow them to settle down more or less flat. Some boards do stay flat after being resawn but it's best not to count on it.

[Randall Scott Smith]

Guys,

Thanks for the input. I'm not too concerned about getting two 2/4 pieces. One is enough - I'd just like to wind up with a 1/4 piece on the waste side, instead of just sawdust which is what I'd get with a planer.

I'll have to look into getting or making a bow saw.

Thanks,
Randy:D

[Tom Veatch]

...
I'll have to look into getting or making a bow saw.
...

Invite your attention to "Bowsaw Basics", Frank Klaus, Popular Woodworking, #172, November 2008.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Joshua Clark's web site has a decent how-to on making a frame saw for ripping board:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/woodworking/frame_saw.php3

There is also a current topic on the Old Tools list that goes into making frame saws, in this instance, for cutting veneers but it is the same.

Take care, Mike

[Robert Rozaieski]

If you are not going to do this often, don't waste your time with a frame saw that will just hang on the wall (unless you like the decorative aspect :D). It will take you longer to build the saw than to just use a good sharp rip saw. I had a frame resaw that I built several years ago that was a good 3' long and they are not easy to use for resawing. They tend to want to wander due to the small blade no matter how much you tension them. I now use a standard rip saw to make these cuts on the rare occasion that I need to. I find it easier. For what it's worth, this is what I've seen the cabinetmakers in Colonial Williamsburg using for resawing boards this size as well. A 10" x 20" board isn't big and will likely be easier to do with a regular rip saw. The kerf is a little wider but the height of the saw plate helps it to track better than a narrow bladed frame saw.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2250/2400943668_c8fc919395.jpg?v=0
This board started out as a 3/4" pine board about 6" wide x 30" long. I resawed the board with a 5.5 PPI 28" rip saw. I ended up finishing out one side to about 7/16". The "waste" side ended up a little less than 3/16".

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2131/2400943676_07de17f467.jpg?v=0

For a 6" board like the one pictured, I cut from each end meeting in the middle. The hardest part is starting the cut straight along the end and edge as it is like cutting a real wide tenon. If you find it difficult to start straight, you can start with a backsaw and then switch to the panel saw when you have a nice straight kerf started. I don't remember if I did that with this board but I frequently start from each corner this way. When you then switch to the panel saw, you have a kerf started for the panel saw to follow. The height of the saw plate then keeps the saw tracking straight in the already started kerf.

Bob