Using References Instead of Measurments

[J. Z. Guest]

Over in the latest metric thread, lots of experienced folks said they avoid measuring and instead uses references, such as story sticks & stop blocks.

This seems like the way to go. But the question is, how do I do this when my plans are measured? In many things, it would take a TON of story sticks & stop blocks to accomplish this. For example:


Lid width
Lid length
Side height
Side width
Drawer front thickness
drawer groove depth and width
etc.


I'd spend 10 hours just trying to make or find a reference for everything.

I just made rough cuts on lumber for Norm's jewelry box, and if it is reasonable, I'd like to go with this reference method.

It would be great if someone made an illustrated tutorial on how to build a project from references, especially one that was originally drawn from plans.

[Steve Schoene]

You have already made almost all the measurements you need. Start with the sides, for example. Glue up panels, if needed, that are wider and longer than the plan says--you can do this by eye. Within an inch or two is fine. Do the other glue ups, if needed.

Then take a side panel and rip it to a size, the width doesn't really matter much. If the plan calls for 10", then 9 1/2 or 10 1/2 will work just as well. What does matter is that you cut the other side using the same setting on the rip fence. That assures that the two sides are the same width, probably within a thousandth or two. If any other parts--like the backs are to be the same dimension, just cut them without changing the rip setting on your saw. Now they are all the same.

Similarly with other parts. Thickness the front to whatever looks like and will work with the joinery you have in mind. 3/4" or 5/8" or 1/2" doesn't really matter. Assemble the box, and make the drawer front so it fits the opening you have left. Then use it to to cut the drawer sides and back to width. and length by fitting to whatever thickness front that you have. Join the front, and plane the sides to get a nice piston fit into the opening, etc.

No complicated layout--just work from one piece to the ones that connect to it or must be sized relative to it.

[Doug Shepard]

What Steve said. Frank Klausz (sp?) also has a DT video where I saw something for the first time and have used ever since. When doing dados for the drawer bottom if you're going to have the bottom overlap the back panel, save the backs for last. Then without changing the fence setting, raise the dado up and cut the backs with the dado set. That way they'll be perfectly aligned with the grooves.

[James E. Mahan]

So here's a sample dilemma. I am building raised panel post-covers for the new front porch. Of course I want them all the same. Three posts, four sides each, a top section that's plain but has to nest into the bottom section with the raised panels. Since I know I have to make twelve raised panels (and twelve of everything else), I could save a lot of time and take the measurements off the drawing I made and go ahead and rip all 24 rails and stiles before I change my setup to cut other parts. BUT I don't know for sure that my setup is actually correct to my standards and that everything will fit the way it should until I make all the parts and do a dry fit.
My choice is to bite the bullet, and make a complete first post cover, making notes as I need them on my drawing and doing my best to remember how I did each set-up. If everything goes right, I'll make the next two by cutting everything for each before I change the set-up.
This is why, for me, it's important to make notes and try to finish a job straight through before multi-tasking to some other project. Priorities though.

[Dave Lehnert]

I picked up a book on a clearance rack at Sears some time ago for $2.00. Completely changed the way I do my woodworking. The Title is "measure twice cut once" By Jim Tolpin. Once I stopped measuring ,my woodworking quality went up 100%. Available from Amazon for less than $20.00 and worth every dime.
Right now I am building a jewelery chest. I start out with the basic measurements and from that point everything is cut to fit.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512-IIKMrgL._SL500_BO2,204,203,200_AA219_PIsitb-sticker-dp-arrow,TopRight,-24,-23_SH20_OU01_.jpg

[Mikail Khan]

I use both measurements and references. I normally start off a project by cutting lumber to size using measurements, but further into the project when I have to cut pieces of lumber that must exactly match pieces already cut (for example when putting on moulding) I use references.

Instead of using a tape measure, when putting moulding on cabinets I will cut one end at 45 degrees then offer it up and mark the position of the next cut on the moulding with a sharp pencil. My joints have gotten a lot tighter since I stopped measuring for these cuts.


MK