Cutting Table replacement -- DIY ? or other cheaper alternative

[Harry Radaza]

after 3 years, my honeycomb table needs to be replaced. And my other 2 machines looks like it could use a new one. A quick call to the mercury dealer gives me a $630 price tag in this part of the world.

I'm looking for Dot It Yourself alternatives. I was thinking of stainless steel sheet with holes big and small drilled onto them for minimu steel left.

I thought I also saw in the forum before some sort of a chain cutting table?

I was just thinking of elevating the engraving table with random stuff but I kinda need the actual cutting table for large production quantity jobs where registration would be the issue. Its so much easier aligning the jig with the upper left hand stoppers for the replacement batch.

Any ideas? Pictures please!

[John Noell]

I use my honeycomb surface a lot. Couldn't imagine doing without. I hear Mike Null (moderator hereabouts) has really nice ones at good prices.

[Scott Shepherd]

Seems like someone told me recently that you can buy the honeycomb material from either Grainger or McMaster Carr and it was less than $100.

[Joe Pelonio]

The last time I bought one (12"x24") from Epilog it was $35 for the honeycomb, and easy to replace in the frame.

[Jim Good]

I concur with John. Send a PM to Mike Null and discuss his vector grids with him. He'll take care of you.

Jim

[Scott Shepherd]

Call Mike or go to www.mcmaster.com and enter Aluminum Honeycomb into the search box.

[Harry Radaza]

anyone remember the link to the chain cutting table?

[Mike Null]

Harry

I don't recall seeing the chain cutting table but as far as registering your work at 0-0 that's fairly easy.

In the drawing you can see what are called risers. These support the cutting grid above the table. The risers are positioned against the rulers of the table. The tabs are fastened to the risers so that they permit the risers to butt against the rulers. The tabs are cut high enough to allow positioning but not so high they will get in the way of the laser head.

[Tim Bateson]

Mike, do you have an actual photo of one of these? I get the concept & do have a lot of use for it. However doesn't the width of the tab alter the X/Y zero? Re-zeroing the laser to these new points is easy, but my Corel templates would then all be off... or would it? hmmmmm

[Mike Null]

Tim

The width of the tab doesn't affect the 0-0 position. As long as you have the risers positioned against the rulers the tabs will follow a perpendicular line from the rulers.

If you'll look at my web site where the red laminate is you'll see the wood tabs protuding slightly above the plastic.

[Harry Radaza]

ditto on the picture. I would love to see one.

I kinda wanted the chain idea because of the ease of cleaning them.

Any other DIY ideas for cutting tables?

[Mike Null]

OK but remember this table is 4 years old. I could replace it but it's still good--regardless how it looks.

The arrows are pointing to risers and tabs.

[Mike Null]

Here's another drawing.

[Tim Bateson]

Thank you Mike. The picture and the second drawing was just what I needed. Now, how do you attach the tabs to the Grid?

[Mike Null]

The tabs aren't attached to the grid, they're attached to the risers and they're stapled.

[Tim Bateson]

Thanks Mike, now I have a weekend project - well one for this evening anyway.

[Killor Perez]

Wow! is a lot like the grill I have.
The grill took the light of a fluorescent tube that was in the trash.