(Em)Brace Ignorance!

[John Dykes]

I've read, reread, and read again every book, article, blog, and post on bench building...

One recurring theme I'm finding is the use of braces - which is, of course, another black hole in my hand tool arsenal. Folks talk about the North Brothers 2101 and the 2100 as the ones to go after. I don't think I've found anything in a 12" or 14" sweep (again thinking bench building). When you get into the 12" / 14" range is there another acceptable model? Again, this is an area I'm quite ignorant on (Point being, learning about vintage Stanley planes on ebay probably cost me more than it should have!). Being in Denver, there isn't a robust secondary market to go touchy - feely!

Secondarily, it sounds like Jennings bits are historically pretty good. Is the best bet to buy a "box" from ebay from a seller w/ good feedback? Buy singles as needed? Or just get new ones from TFWW?? :eek:

Just point me down the right path, and I can run with it!

Thanks!

- jbd in Denver

[Gary Herrmann]

There are other threads on this forum on braces.

You'll pay a premium for NB 2100s and to a lesser extent 2101s. I've been very happy with my Stanley 2101 and 923. I've also heard very good things about Miller Falls and Pexto braces, but can't cite particular model numbers (maybe MF 77x series - not sure).

While a 12 or 14" would make it easier, I've gotten through 2by material very rapidly with a 10". Granted a benchtop is thicker than that, but there are a lot of 10" braces out there. A large breast drill may also be an option.

Jennings are good. Irwins are also good, and since they are a single twist, they will clear chips faster. Generally, Irwins go for less than Jennings. There are other manufacturers out there too - Greenlee, Winchester, etc - but I don't know how they compare in price.

You'll pay a premium for a full boxed set of Jennings in good shape - I've seen them go for $90+ up to over $300 for a mint set :eek:. Buy as you need or a buy a few odd lots and build your set. If you don't focus on boxed sets, you can pick up a complete Irwin set in very good condition for a good price. I have a complete set of Irwins in a plastic roll that I picked up for $30 on the bay.

[Randy Klein]

Here's where I look for braces:

Walt (http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html#BRACES)
Sydnas Sloot (http://www.sydnassloot.com/tools.htm#braces)
George's Basement (http://www.georgesbasement.com/galootsales/sale07172002/htmlinks.htm)

My rule of thumb is, if it has a plastic ratchet adjuster, it's not worth it.

[Johnny Kleso]

John I even own a 12" North Bors they are not super hard to find but you may have to wait 1-2 moths to find a nice one at eBay..

But you really dont need a 12" unless your boring 1" plus holes or lots and lots of them..

I did have a nice collection of Stanley 923s and also own a beautiful Stanley 813 that I am still looking for a 8" and 12"

I have a 8" 10" and 12" 2101 Bell Systems
Stanley 813 and a Fray/Stanley 6"

If you really need a 12" any 12" is better than none at all.. You will tire your arms with one drilling tiny holes its would be faster with a 10" or 8" unless you have large sized bit and hard wood..

I would try to find the smaller sizes before the larger ones IMHO

[Mark C. Salomon]

If you want a decent North brace I suggest that you drop Patrick Leach a line at leach@supertool.com. To be honest, I bought a very nice North brace and a modern Irwin 3/4 in bit to put the dog holes in my bench top. Unfortunately, the bit simply wouldn't grab into the maple and simply spun on the top. I'm not sure whether the problem was the modern bit or not. What I ended up doing is using a router with a 3/4 in HSS up spiral bit as described in PWW and demonstrated by Glen Huey on their web site. It worked like a charm. As an aside, I put a different new 3/4 auger bit (straight shank) into a corded drill and the bit grabbed the maple so hard that the drill stalled and threatened to rip it from my grip. I've heard of this happening and was told that a good solution was to grind or file off about half of the starter threads on the bit to reduce the grab. I tried it and it worked better but still not as well as the router. Good luck.

[Ron Dunn]

I bought a 10" Stanley 923 from Sandy Moss:

http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm

This brace has parallel jaws, and I use it with plain old round-shank drill bits.

My main purpose in drilling is to make dowel holes using my Dowelmax. The brace meets my needs perfectly, and has completely replaced my use of an electric drill.