Trophy Plates

[bob pfohler]

I've been asked to do some trophy's (not really my thing) for my sons soccer team. They picked out some trophies from the JDS catalog and know I have to make the plates.
I'm using a laser engraver so I'm not sure if I should by some anodized aluminum or if something like flixibrass will work and look good.
Any suggestions for someone new to awards?

[Bill Cunningham]

I prefer black Enamel coated brass (it's really brass plated steel with enamel coating) and Alumamark. I just did a McClean family crest on silver Alumamark for a local funeral home, I have also used the black brass for urns as well. I have a local taxidermist that gets all his plates in black brass, and the gold Alumamark always looks pretty good on trophys.. Alumamark etches better if you back off the focus about 1/8" .. Seems to richen the black quite a bit.. Even on silver Alumamark which is trickier than gold..

[Wesley Perreira]

I use the #602-4178Q (Black w/gold) or the #602-7348Q (Gold w/black) from Rowmark. They work really well with the laser and come with the adhesive already on back. A quarter sheet (12" x 24") will make about 80-90 plates, depending on your size. I have been placing little sports-figure graphics beside the text on the plate and the people have been going nuts over them. Here's a couple in jpeg format that have been popular.

[David Lavaneri]

Bob,

If you don't have basic metal fabrication equipment, the decision is easy. You'll want to use Flexibrass with an adhesive back and vector cut the plates on your laser.

If you plan to do awards in the future, buying a metal shear and corner notching/rounding equipment will be a good and crucial investment.

David "The Stunt Engraver " Lavaneri

[Stephen Beckham]

I use the Spectrum Lights on all of my trophies unless metal is requested. I do explain up front that I use the "laser foil" versus the actual metal plates. Since they are really thin, you don't get the silver edge of the aluminum plates.

Give me a PM if you just have a hand full to do and we can work something out. I keep S64, S69, S74 and S73 on hand all the time. People want metals etched on the back? I use on of these and stick to it - explaining to them that we are not 'modifying' the original metal when doing it this way. Keeps me from having to buy a pantograph machine...

[Michael Bareno]

Bob,
We do quite a bit of trophies and medals even (using inserts) all laser engraved. Our preferred material is IPI Laserthins, which JDS sells at a good price, comes with 3M adhesive on the back and is available in brushed gold, brushed aluminum and brushed copper (w/black engraving).

I calculated this to be cheaper than Rowmark Flexibrass. Like Stephen mentioned, Spectrum Lights are pretty good, just a bit too thin for my liking. The part numbers for the Laserthins are: SAL12Q for Brushed Gold/Black, SAL13Q for Brushed Aluminum/Black, SAL14Q for Brushed Copper/Black.

The fact that I can engrave these fast, put any logo/clipart on it and that you can read it from afar (when compared to regular brass plates) are some of the reasons why our customers are very happy with our trophies.

[Brian Robison]

I'm with Stephen, if you haven't used the black with a gold core try some. It engraves the nicest gold you could imagine, the black scratches easy though.