Frustration with face jointing (pics)

[Matt Campbell]

I'm having a problem face jointing longer boards. They start to taper down the whole length, and eventually it gets so bad that I can't joint the whole length. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Does that make sense? Here's a picture that hopefully illustrates what I mean:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u126/bluesmanmatt/Myshop016.jpg

And now it's turned on its side so you can see the taper better:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u126/bluesmanmatt/Myshop017.jpg

What am I doing wrong? http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowconfused.gif

[Scott Rollins]

your outfeed table is too high. You must set it dead even with the knife arc or 0.001 or so below the knives. Too far and you will get snipe. It is illustrated in this thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=918082#poststop

[rob mason]

Wow - that's a pretty piece of walnut. What are you making?
I'll be watching this thread for suggestions, too...

[glenn bradley]

Matt, I would agree your tables are not co-planer or there is a control issue. How long are the jointer tables? If you cannot support a bit over half of your board length ahead of and after the cutters, are you using roller stands or some other method for support and control?

If support is an issue, a planer sled (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=58735)could help as well but, with the jointer setup OK and the infeed and outfeed fully supported, there should be no problems.

[Michael Schwartz]

I would re-evaluate the setup of the jointer and check that the knives are set properly, and then adjust the out feed table. You should also check and make sure the tables are flat, strait in relation to each other, and shim as needed.

As far as technique, make sure the tables are free of sawdust, and on a long board setup additional in feed/out feed support as needed to help you control the board. Be sure to transfer pressure from the in feed to the out feed side evenly.

Also it helps to take light passes as well.

Lastly wherever possible you should break down long boards to a size just larger than the finished part. Not only will you have to remove much less material to flatten out a face, but it will be signifigantly easier to work with it.

Btw that is a beautiful piece of walnut.

[Matt Campbell]

Thanks for the replies.

I think it's the outfeed table. Another site suggested that my knives might be worn down below the outfeed table after so much use. I believe that's the problem. When I find out, I'll report back.

Regarding the walnut, I recently bought close to 300 BF of quartersawn 6/4 and 8/4 walnut for $500. :D The cool part is that this is for a commissioned gun cabinet, and the customer is the one who paid for all of the walnut. :cool:

[glenn bradley]

:D The cool part is that this is for a commissioned gun cabinet, and the customer is the one who paid for all of the walnut. :cool:

That's great!

[Bob Wingard]

Hey Matt .. if you need your jointer knives ground/sharpened, give me a call .. .. I have a Tormek with the accessory for doing them, and I have a dial-indicator knife setting jig you can borrow, or I can stop by and do them for you one afternoon.

<<<__ Bøb __>>>

[Don Morris]

What an offer! Just another reason I belong to this outstanding group. I've put several people onto our site. You guys and gals is great!!!

[Matt Campbell]

Thanks, Bob. I'm sure I'll be up in your area soon.

[John Hedges]

Matt, does this happen on everyboard or just on some. I have seen this happen when I have a cupped board and joint the wrong side. If the board has any bowing in it then the cupped side should face down so that the outside edges touch the tables and the middle is above the table. If a cupped board has the middle touching the table and the ends off of it, you can get a result exactly like what you have. Hope that makes sense.

[Matt Campbell]

It just seems to happen on the longer boards. I've made a habit of feeding boards through the way you described so I don't think that's the problem.

Instead of messing with the machine last night, I went ahead and ripped the board into 3 pieces since I was going to end up doing that anyway. Of course it's not a permanent solution, but it was a quick fix. For some reason, it worked just fine once I had narrower boards.

[Tim Malyszko]

I had a similar problem a few years ago and my knives were slightly out of alignment. It wasn't very apparent on short boards, but became a major issue on longer boards. I was getting the exact same cut as your showing.

[Matt Campbell]

Also, I push down very hard on the outfeed side. Could that be contributing to the problem?

[Don Bullock]

..
Regarding the walnut, I recently bought close to 300 BF of quartersawn 6/4 and 8/4 walnut for $500. :D The cool part is that this is for a commissioned gun cabinet, and the customer is the one who paid for all of the walnut. :cool:

I sure hope you plan to post your project here.:D

[Scott Rollins]

#14 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=941474&postcount=14) http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/report.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/report.php?p=941474)
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http://www.sawmillcreek.org/image.php?u=14230&dateline=1185543107 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?u=14230)Matt Campbell (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?u=14230) http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/statusicon/user_offline.gif
2008 Contributor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Also, I push down very hard on the outfeed side. Could that be contributing to the problem?

Only hold the board with as much pressure as it takes to safely control it. Too much pressure can flatten a board across its length and not remove any bow.

[Mike Parzych]

Seems like every time someone posts about problems on the jointer, the first responses are to start changing the table heights.

I maintain that 95%+ of jointing "problems" are a result of technique rather than the machine itself. Of course it's not a bad idea to check the table alignment, but I don't think infeed/outfeed tables get out proper height adjustment.

In your case Matt, I think the problem comes from not supporting the material on the out feed side. With long material just the weight dangling off the end of the outfeed table causes it to sag down and in effect lift the trailing end. So you run it over again - taking more material off the leading edge - and the back end does the same thing. So you end up creating a "wedge" of sorts, without ever cleaning up the trailing end.
The key is that you say it only happens on long stock.

With long stock it's essential to have a support that dead on plane with the outfeed table. I'd be really surprised if this didn't solve the problem.

Leave the table heights alone.

[Matt Campbell]

Mike,

The only reason I don't think that is the problem is because of how hard I push down on the stock on the outfeed side of the table.