Window Trim... Sources of "How To's"

[Jim Kaczmark]

Hello all,
Thinking ahead a several months to the trim out of my new home. Windows will be all wood wrapped. Because of home size, I will probably be hiring a trim carpenter to do trim in our great room, but will probably do the rest myself. So my question: What sources of information would you recommend in learning how to do window trim? Any books you'd recommend... any websites? Other sources? What have your experiences been if you have done such a project yourself?

Covering the basics is not what I'm exactly looking for here. Finish nailing a trim piece to the edge of a window may sound easy if everything is square, etc. However, what are some of the tricks experienced trim carpenters have used if the jamb is not even with the wall... or worse yet, out of allignment with it so much as to require extending the jamb itself... or cutting a jamb to fit a rough opening to mate perfectly to the window itself (we have vinyl windows in our home). Details such as the pro's & con's of pre-finishing before installing versus finishing after installing all pieces of window trim. Details of matching putty to the wood / stain you are using.

Thanks for you inputs in advance!
Jim

[Dan Bertenthal]

I really liked Craig Savages book "Trim Carpentry Techniques" from Taunton. It's a pretty dense book, though it's well written and the illustrations are generally decent. The main thing is that I really liked his attitude and approach to his work. You'll find it satisfying as a woodworker. I would say that dealing with out-of-square framing and other real-world situations is his strong point. There's more than one edition of the book, though I've looked at two of them and didn't find much difference, so if you find an old edition that's just fine.

He also produced a video with the same name, also from Taunton, that focuses just on windows, doorframes, and baseboards. It's not a long video, but it's still got a few gems. I personally found it very helpful to actually see the work done in real-time.

Strongly recommended.

d

[Bob Farrell]

If you like online resources, I know of two that will likely have what you want.

FWW's sister online site (subscription) is Fine Homebuilding - http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/

Lumberjocks has a sister site (free) called Homerefurbers - http://homerefurbers.com/

[Dan Clark]

You might want to take a look at Gary Katz's DVDs for trim carpenters: http://www.garymkatz.com/publications_dvds.html.

Regards,

Dan.

[Dave Lewis]

I trimmed our house out 3 yrs. ago with doug fir. Windows were Loewen doug fir. I bought a Bench Dog router table and 3.5 HP Fein router to mill custom window trim and baseboard. (Get the hold-downs or a power feeder).

Be sure to relieve the back of the trim - I use a 1-3/4 dia. flat bottom Freud bit with a few shallow passes. This is needed since the window jamb doesn't usually have the same (exposure ?) around the perimeter.

I used a block plane in some locations to trim down to a relatively uniform exposure, but I'd get a power planer if building again.


A few books:

Trim Carpentry - Craig Savage; Taunton
Traditional Woodwork - Mario Rodriguez; Taunton
Finish Carpentry - Gary Katz; JLC

[John Keeton]

Jim, others have provided some valuable resources, but I will respond to a couple of your questions. I have trimmed 3 of our homes, and several rental houses over the years, as well as various projects with our grown children. Experience is important as you do learn little tricks along the way by trial and error.

Start with a very well tuned miter saw with as good a blade as you can afford. That will be your biggest advantage. Make sure your have a good finish nailer, I use a Senco that I have had for several years. It has a soft point, leaves very little mark, and is angled for easy use. I also use a Grex pin nailer to tack corners, etc., and a brad nailer for certain situations. Glue all joints, even end grain. A nice jigsaw will be needed for stools, etc.

For stained trim, I like the walls to be finish painted. I always stain my trim first, and apply a sealer coat, knock down with steel wool, and apply one more coat of finish. That way, I can fill holes and joints, if necessary, and not have to worry about getting a blotched stain job. I fill all holes, etc., then apply a final finish coat.

Same procedure for painted trim, leaving the final coat for after the install, but caulking the joints and the trim to the walls first. The walls will need to be cut in around the trim.

I don't paint, and the painter I use will work with me on this finish schedule. That is very important if you are not doing your own painting. My painter works for me by the hour, but most will want to quote the job after the trim is done, walls and all.

As you have noted, construction errors are the biggest problem, and a lot of that can be remedied by cutting back the drywall from the window/door. That will let the trim lay down against the window, but will effect your angles. You will have to do this on a trial/error basis - there just is no other way. Very few installs will permit flat, clean, 45 deg cuts.

It is helpful, and almost a necessity, to have another individual assist on baseboard and long trim, but windows and doors can be a one-man job. I am sure that I am slower than most, but with wide trim, I average about 20-30 minutes per unit, with stools, and returned aprons. Personally, I really enjoy running trim - it is almost therapeudic. It goes quickly, and is easy to see your progress.