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View Full Version : Paralleogram Jointers



Jerry Thompson
10-04-2008, 3:06 PM
I have seen jointers that say they are paralleogram type and others that do not mention this. What is the difference and if any what is the best to have/use?

Frank Drew
10-04-2008, 3:17 PM
Jerry,

My understanding is that the two main types of jointers feature either parallelogram or inclined ways methods of raising or lowering the in- and outfeed tables. I don't entirely understand how the former works, though.

Some here have expressed a strong preference for parellelogram, but it's not clear to me that one style is necessarily better than the other; my last jointer, a Northfield 12" model, had inclined ways and I never had any trouble maintaining adjustment, and I moved the infeed table up and down all the time.

Marlin Williams
10-04-2008, 3:50 PM
parallelogram means the table will drop straight down from the blade while the regular jointer will drop back and away. So the parallelogram keeps the table closer to the blades and is supposed to reduce tear out amoung other things as well.

Jim Becker
10-04-2008, 5:58 PM
Parallelogram is superior in the sense that the edge of the infeed table will always be exactly the same distance from the knives no matter what the depth of cut setting is. That's a clear advantage for anyone who varies their cut depth frequently...or...if they do things like rabbiting on the jointer that require a "big bite". For most of us, who tend to leave the machine set to the same depth of cut (typically 1/32" or so), this matters less.

If in the odd chance the machine would need to be adjusted for twisting to be co-planer, many parallelogram jointers have convenient ways to make those adjustments without shimming. Hopefully, any machine you need will not have any "twists" in it!

My J/P combo uses the parallelogram design, but I honestly wouldn't notice the difference given it stays on that same setting day-in, day-out.

glenn bradley
10-04-2008, 9:59 PM
I don't think the feeling on p-beds and DT ways are quite as strong as the whole table saw left-tilt, right-tilt thing. Many folks set their depth of cut to around 1/32" and rarely change it. This brings into question the strong feelings about wheels vs. levers too . . . hmmmm. I have levers. I wanted wheels because I thought they would be "better". In practice the levers are great and quick too. Just "shows-to-go-you".

From the discussions I've been in with folks who have the two types (mine's a p-bed and I did that on purpose) it seems to be "your choice". I don't believe there is a "best" necessarily.

I heard enough horror stories from folks trying to properly shim the dovetail ways or fiddle with gibs that I was disinclined to participate should that ever become necessary. For many, it never will. I believe most hobbyists could use a DT machine for years and years and never wear out the DT ways.

Horror stories aside, there was an overwhelming base of G0490 users going back years who all praised the machine so that got factored into my decision. I also like the consistent distance between tables and cutter head regardless of table position. I like that the p-beds are supported at "four corners" and do not hang from their mounts, blah, blah, blah.

I went with the G0490X and the quiet operation of the spiral head is a joy. There are also many, many DT way jointer owners who love their machines and have found them trouble free. Now, isn't that helpful ;-)

Eugene Wigley
10-04-2008, 10:44 PM
I went with the G0609 for the reason that Glen stated. There are a lot of people using the G0409 and all seemed to like it. When I started looking at jointers that seemed to be the most bang for the buck. I have used mine to flatten and edge joint 8/4 spalted maple in random widths from 9" to 12". I also used it on 10/4 walnut. This jointer has worked well for me.

The table adjustment on this machine is a lot better than on the 6" jet that I used before I upgraded. I think there was something wrong that would not let the bed set properly from about 1/16" cut to about 1/8" cut. I never could get that to work properly. I don't know if the parallelogram bed adjustment has anything to do with it or not I just know that it is REALLY EASY to adjust this bed.

Eugene