Prime before painting outdoor piece?

[Doug Hobkirk]

I finally finished two Adirondack chairs -


one oak (white oak frame, red oak slats) to be stained (Sikkens if I can find it, #1 of semi-transparent stains in Consumer Reports)
one pine (PT for pieces that touch ground) to be painted w/ Valspar Ultra Premium exterior latex (#2 in Consumer Reports)

Should I prime with Kilz (or something else) before painting the pine chair?
http://sawmillcreek.org/gdh2.com/images/PineOverview.jpg
http://gdh2.com/images/PineOverview.jpg
http://sawmillcreek.org/gdh2.com/images/PineArmDetail.jpghttp://gdh2.com/images/PineArmDetail.jpg

Thanks
http://gdh2.com/images/Overview.jpg
http://sawmillcreek.org/gdh2.com/images/PineArmDetail.jpg

[Howard Acheson]

>> one pine (PT for pieces that touch ground) to be painted w/ Valspar Ultra Premium exterior latex (#2 in Consumer Reports)

Couple of points. First, pressure treated will not prevent rot of the bottoms of the legs. Water and moisture is still wicked up into the grain. It's will work much better if you use some thinned varnish or poly varnish (about 1 part varnish to two parts mineral spirits. Put the mixture in a pan or container that the leg will fit into and submerge the leg foot 2 inches or so in the material for 24 hours. Do this on both chairs for long lasting protection.

Second, the paint you have chosen is an exterior house paint. It is designed to sort of powder and be self cleaning. Also, things will stick to it when it get hot. Much better to use an exterior latex acrylic paint which dries hard.

Finally, for the painted item, use a primer but be sure it's rated for exterior use.

[Doug Hobkirk]

>> Much better to use an exterior latex acrylic paint which dries hard.

Which "exterior latex acrylic paint"? (The Valspar is labeled as "100% acrylic latex")

Thanks for the tip on protecting the floor contact areas with the shellac mixture. I'm eager to get started painting - 24 hours soaking for 8 legs is a dampener! [Let's see, 2 containers, 1 sized for front leg, one for rear, 4 days...]

[Jim Becker]

Adding to Howies's advice, it is a good idea to use a primer that is recommended by the paint manufacturer of the product you intend to use.

[Steve knight]

I would use epoxy on the bottom of the legs. the poly or varnish will never really dry if it actually soaks up much at all.
this comes from trying to put finish in wood with a vacuum chamber. the finish only gets so far and it never dried even after years of indoor sitting. plus poly does not really block moisture. epoxy will block it and it will cure. plus it will protect the bottom of the feet from some wear.
acrylic is not a material in paint it is the type of surface the paint produces. hard with some shine.

[Curt Harms]

Red Oak isn't known to be a good exterior wood. White Oak on the other hand is very good. It seem like anything you can do to seal the end of the Red Oak portions would be worthwhile. As I understand it water will move freely through Red Oak, water will not move through White Oak.

["Michael Hinkel"]

I have made several of the NYW chairs over the years. I have cut thin strips of black plumbing pipe and/or the slick plastic used for jigs, Can't remember the name, and screwed it to the bottom of the legs.

[John Hyatt]

I have repaired a few of those type chairs with the same problem,rotted legs. Glued/screwed 2'' of ipe to each one. Of course I have a lot of Ipe and Garapa shorts piled up in the shop. John

[Howard Acheson]

>> The Valspar is labeled as "100% acrylic latex")

Then it should be OK

>> Thanks for the tip on protecting the floor contact areas with the shellac mixture.

You may have mis-read my comment. The finish to use is an oil based varnish or poly varnish, not shellac.