What is the best type of mallet with which to strike a chisel?

[richard poitras]

Recently there have been a few questions on chisels but one thing I haven’t heard any one discussing is the mallets/hammers that are used in conjunction with wooden handled chisels. Which kinds are the best to use? (wood, brass, leather, synthetics, rubber, ect.) And what is generally the best weight that people are using in regards to say mortising and such?

[David Tiell]

I don't know if there is a "best". As with anything else, it's pretty much personal preference. I prefer a round head mallet like the ones in this picture (I like the small one). Easy to turn on the lathe to suit your own liking. I use the same one for chopping dovetails as I do chopping mortises. I would recommend if possible you go to a place like a Rockler or Woodcraft Store and try what they have there to see how you like the feel, balance, and how it fits your hands.

[Jeff Craven]

I prefer a wood mallet for my wood handled chisels. I built this one, originally it was way too heavy, but I kept trimming down the head of the mallet, until it had a good feel to it.

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8725/img8309ak1wv7.jpg

[Michael Hammers]

Here is my go to striking devices....
The Lee Valley is my favorite for more uumph and the Glen Drake is more for finesse and my carving tools...
MSH

[Tim Thomas]

Q: "What is the best type of mallet with which to strike a chisel?"

A: The one within easy reach. :D

[Zahid Naqvi]

I like using a mallet with a large head, so that mishits or clear misses do not land on my wrist :D
Seriously I like large heads so that I can keep my eyes on the cutting edge of the tool and not the striking point of the hammer. I think with practice one can develop the touch but I am not there yet.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Richard

The question is really what hammer do you use with what chisel.

For Oval Bolstered Mortice Chisels, which have a plain wooden handle , I will use either wooden mallet or the large turned mallet in the picture below ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Mallets1.jpg

When I need to gently "persuade" a dovetail chisel, such as a Blue Spruce, then I will use the light, slender mallet above.

However, when I need to work with Japanese bench or dovetail chisels, then I use a heavy-ish genno, 375 gm I think. These chisels need to be wacked with authority.

One like this ..

http://www.fine-tools.com/h310727a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

The "best mallet" depends upon what you're using it for. If you're going to be chopping out mortises, I expect a heavier mallet, perhaps with a flat face might be best.

But for almost everything else, I use a round "carver's" mallet like the ones shown in the picture below.

Just as a comment on mallets, most woods will delaminate when used enough. The best wood I've found for a mallet is lignum vitae. Bloodwood may also be good but I haven't used the one I have enough to have sufficient experience with it. You can buy a lignum vitae turning block (green wood). Cut it oversize and let it dry, then turn it. As shown, I glue up the head to use less lignum vitae since the handle doesn't matter much.

Mike

[From left, figured maple, maple and ebony, maple handle - lignum vitae head (medium), oak handle - lignum vitae head (large), large oak, bloodwood.]

[David Keller NC]

Depends - Is your question "What's the best mallet to hit a chisel with to ensure accuracy?" or "What's the best mallet to hit a chisel with to do the least damage to the chisel?".

If it's the first question, my personal opinion is that you can't go wrong with the form that developed over the last several hundred years - the flat-faced beech mallet you see at antique tool meets and that are still being made. The flat face is angled such that the natural stroke of your arm will result in a very square strike to the butt of the chisel, and has the least chance of twisting the cutting edge.

If it's the second question, I think the best answer is the urethane round carver's mallets from Wood is Good tools. It would be very difficult to damage the butt end of a chisel or carving tool with these mallets, and they will never delaminate. They come in 12, 18, and 22 ounce weights. Be aware that there are cheap chinese copies of this mallet in the market place, and they suck (I've used them - they're off-balance, and some of them were out of round).

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Mike-

How do you finish your mallets?

-TH

[Mike Henderson]

Hi Mike-

How do you finish your mallets?

-TH
Usually just oil-varnish. I put the finish on before it take the mallet off the lathe so I can sort of buff the finish, or rub it out.

Mike

[Randy Klein]

Glen Drake once said that if your chisel end is flat, hit it with something that is round and vice versa. Don't hit flat with flat and don't hit round with round, otherwise slight mis-hits are exaggerated.

[Dewey Torres]

check this our from a while back:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=85579

[Kevin Groenke]

I also prefer the round carvers style. For some reason I go for small and heavy. The "go to" is one with a cast iron head that I got over 10 yrs ago, I think it's 24oz. I don't recall where I got it and haven't seen one like it for some time. I have the Lee Valley journeyman's w/brass head that I also like though it's lighter. We have a few Shop Fox brass carvers from Grizzly, but I find them too light. We also have a couple Good Wood composite mallets which are nice but larger than I prefer. There are also a few turned wood ones around (not near as nice as Mike's) but I find even the Cocobolo ones either too light or too bulky.

There are also a couple wood jointers style mallets, but they rarely if ever get used.

I'm sure the Bridge City's is splendid.
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/Hammers/DB-1+Dead+Blow+Mallet

Some others,
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2397

http://www.ptreeusa.com/hammers_mallets.htm#1198

4 lbs!!! (also 1.5 + in 8oz steps)
http://www.amazon.com/Trow-and-Holden-Company-lb-Round/dp/B000CSZI6Q/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1222991869&sr=1-15

[David Keller NC]

Randy - I think Mr. Drake is right about that. Ironically, though, just about every chisel I've ever held has a slight radius on the end - completely flat ends don't seem to be a common thing.

One of the reasons that us carvers use round mallets, by the way, doesn't have all that much to do with accurate strikes - it's because there are often-encountered situations where the carving tool must be held in such a way that the mallet has to be swung at weird angles, and it'd be really difficult and unwieldy to use a joiner's mallet with a flat face to do that. No doubt, some of that figured into the origin of Glenn-Drake's Tight Hammers.

[Mark Singer]

I use a round carvers mallet for most work. I use a small brass mallet for very fine dovetails. Sometimes a steel japanese mallet for japanese chisels.... most times I use the carvers mallet on those too

[Michael Hammers]

I agree with Dave. In fact the LV mallet really is a gem for chisel work I think. Both mortise and bench work. It is very well thought out nicely balanced. And for (for me) the perfect weight. In the hardwoods I work with it has never been too light. If you look closely you can see how they designed the angle of the striking face, plus you can replace the wood if it gets too beat up.
The Glen Drake is a special little piece I think. I like it because it really afords a lot of different holding/striking positions. I can grasp the head, work from either side..great balance and control. It fits my hand nicely and comes in left or righty. Pricey? maybe...but not compared to what I see some mallets go for.
I have not been too concerned about round heads or flat heads on striking devices...for me its not that relevant. If I booger a chisel handle up it only takes about a half hour at the most to turn a new one. The Barr's are socket and easy to replace.
The carving tools are a little more delicate and I do reserve the GD for them. And like Dave stated, sometimes you have to hit in awkward positions to accomodate the grain when carving and the GD excelss at that. I would like to one day own a few of his palm style..
Wow...long post for a mallet question :rolleyes:
Mike

[Bill White]

is one made from dogwood and waxed. Been usin' it for a long time. Just think that it's the one I'm used to and reach for it automatically.
Bill

[Michael Schwartz]

I like japanese chisel hammers although a small stanely warington patterned hammer from a flea market for few bucks can be a charm.

For carving I like a heavy brass mallet.

20 years from now when your handles are all beat up from the metal hammer just turn new ones, a nice project that will take a few weekends and make your tools better than ever.

There is a huge difference from light controlled taps from a hammer compared to a carpenter smashing a prized chisel with full force from a 30oz waffle head framing hammer in attempt to dislodge a nail.

[Vic Castello]

As I am exclusively a woodcarver working mostly on small to medium sized projects...a light mallet suits me well. I use this one by "Wood Is Good" which I can use all day without tiring:


http://www.woodisgoodco.com/mal_ma12.jpg

[Don Dorn]

I use the "Wood is Good" mallet too. It's 12 oz and I've found it perfect for dovetails as it isn't too heavy, but has enough mass and momentum to get the job done nicely.

[Wayne Cannon]

That's what I thought I remembered him saying. Its good to hear confirmation. To that end, Glen Drake's chisel mallets have one flat end and one round end.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

Generally speaking I prefer to use this massive beast of a mallet that I inherited from my grandfather, for mortising especially. I have a somewhat smaller beech mallet I also use quite happily and the Veritas cylindrical brass headed mallet I bought on a whim and that isn't really heavy enough IMHO (but maybe I'm overly used to the gigantic one?).

It is generally a bad idea to hit wood with metal. My tests indicate that plastic handles don't stand up so well either. Other than that, you are your best guide, to whether a heavier mallet or a lighter one is better. I will note that I had trouble swinging the beast mallet at first due to the weight, but I rapidly got used to it.

[Jim Koepke]

For some work, a carvers mallet fits the bill, for other things the common flat faced beach mallet works. Then there is the one that is used for light work made from an oak 2x4 from an old pallet.

If the chisel has to be hit real hard, it is likely in need of sharpening.

jim

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

If the chisel has to be hit real hard, it is likely in need of sharpening.
jim

I would normally agree with this sentiment, save for mortising which is where my colossal mallet comes into its own. Big mortising chisels are pretty well designed to be hit as hard as you can, and the mortising operation itself does not well reward timidity. You can do it, same as you can make a mortise using a bench chisel, but it takes a lot longer.

[Mitch Barker]

I've always used a regular 'ol hammer to chop out dovetails. Recently I was wondering if a mallet would have any advantages? My chisels are about 20 yr old sorby chisels with round handles (very light colored wood - boxwood maybe?), no metal hoops. I've had one handle split, but I glued it back together and it's as good as new.

So what's the advantage of a wooden or urethane mallet? Is it faster? Less vibration?

(hope it;s not bad manners to post to an old thread here...)

Mitch

[Mike Henderson]

I've always used a regular 'ol hammer to chop out dovetails. Recently I was wondering if a mallet would have any advantages? My chisels are about 20 yr old sorby chisels with round handles (very light colored wood - boxwood maybe?), no metal hoops. I've had one handle split, but I glued it back together and it's as good as new.

So what's the advantage of a wooden or urethane mallet? Is it faster? Less vibration?

(hope it;s not bad manners to post to an old thread here...)

Mitch
You generally want to save your chisel handles so you use a softer mallet than the handles. If you use a steel hammer on regular chisels, the end of the chisel handles will get mushroomed pretty good, including possible splitting. If you make your own chisel handles, you can replace the handles when they get damaged, but most people choose a softer mallet and spare the chisel handles.

Mike

[A metal hammer is used with Japanese chisels, but they have a metal hoop around the top of the chisel handle to keep the handle from splitting and the ends of the chisel handles get mushroomed even with that. But that's "traditional" with Japanese chisels so people keep doing it.]

[Johnny Kleso]

Rolled Leather Pattern Makers Hammer

Either the type with steel that holds a rolled leather disc or the all leather rolled head and wooden handle...

I am sure may other than their favorite..
This is that I learned with as a pattern maker..

[John Keeton]

I use this from Peachtree. Very similar to Vic's 12 oz. mallet, but only $20.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/Peach%20Graphics/orange_mallet_220.jpg

[george wilson]

Sculptors traditionally use the round mallets. Cabinet makers the flat head mallet. I don't think that's been mentioned.

I prefer the flat head myself. Any mallet that is not metal will be easier on your chisel handles,though the Japanese type chisels use a steel mallet. Their chisels have a stout steel ring to prevent splitting,however.

I guess it might depend upon how indestructable your handle might be. I use only wood,leather or urethane are o.k.. No metal on a handle with a plain or leather ring tipped handle.

[John Keeton]

Sculptors traditionally use the round mallets. Cabinet makers the flat head mallet. I don't think that's been mentioned.
George, scuptor I ain't!!:D I just don't seem to strike the chisel squarely with a flat head mallet. As you indicate, it is really a personal preference.

I am pretty new at this handtool thing, but have used chisels for decades. The problem was, in past years, my tools were inferior, and I hit them with whatever I had - which was usually a small kid's hammer:eek:

As you can see, nearly anything was an improvement.

[Rod Sheridan]

For chopping mortices, I use a rectangular hardwood mallet.

For finer work I sneak Diann's round head lignum vitae carving mallet out of her tool roll and use it.

The whole trick is to remember to return it before she notices.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. I wish carvers used a Felder CF741 so I could sneak the use of that when she's not looking also.

[glenn bradley]

I cut the handle down on this one as it seemed clumsy. I then added 4oz of fishing weight to the rounded "face" side.

[george wilson]

I used to get free mallet heads better than beech ones. I'd get the wheel fellows that were already mortised,but for some reason didn't come out usable. Ox cart ones were nice and big. They were hickory.

If you could get a piece of elm burl,or other hard burl,old timers liked them the best for heads. Of course,burls are too prized these days for such use.

[Mitch Barker]

Reading though the numerous comments, it seems that there are two considerations. The life of the chisel handle, and personal preference.

So, would you agree with this:

Assuming equal weight mallets, the number of "whacks" it takes to chop a dovetail is independent of the material of the mallet: wood, deadblow, brass, steel.

[george wilson]

The usable force of the deadblow is going to give the best delivery to the chisel. Wood,rawhide,plastic,or wood have some deadblow properties. Steel bounces and wastes some of the energy. Of course,you can't drive nails with a wooden or plastic faced mallet. It is mostly preference. The old timers who used tools day in,day out,used wooden,flat faced mallets for chisels. That ought to say something. They weren't stupid,and probably a lot more experienced than modern people who do not work by hand 12 hours a day.

I wouldn't worry about how many whacks it takes to do the occassional dovetail,unless you are one foot in the grave and running out of whacks!!!

[Russ Hauser]

Well, here's mine. I cobbled this together in '86' for a project with my first hand cut dovetails. The head is 8/4 oak, and the handle is a replacement hammer handle from a hardware store. I think I replaced the leathers once. The handle fits in a tapered mortice and is held in place with a wedge. It has never loosened. As you can see, it's not pretty and has been used for anything needing a mallet.

[John Sanford]

I use a two pound Nupla Deadblow, steel on one face, plastic on the other. I'll also use a light (12oz), lighter (8 oz) or very light (4 oz tack) steel hammer on occasion, but its usually the Nupla for me, aka "the Persuader". (not to be confused with the BFH, which isn't even allowed to look at chisels, being more suited for whacking tandems loose.)

[Mark Singer]

A carvers mallet will not redirect the chisel as a flat faced mallet can if slightly off axis. I use a carvers mallet even with Japanese chisels often. I have 2 Japanese chisel hammers, but they are not nearly as familiar to me as the carvers mallet

http://www.toolnut.co.uk/images/products/323.jpg

[Larry Edgerton]

I have a deadblow carvers mallet like Johns, but what I use most is a plastic SnapOn dead blow. I like how the SnapOn moves stuff without damage, and it has awesome balance. I threw out my wood mallets.