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Dave Lehnert
09-29-2008, 12:00 AM
Before I buy one, Any advantage to a veneer saw over using a blade?

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/43901-01-500.jpg

Jamie Buxton
09-29-2008, 12:15 AM
IMHO, a veneer saw like that is useless. I have one, and instead use a sharp knife. My standard veneering process works like this... I rough-cut the veneer, oversize. Then I edge-joint it, tape it together, and glue it to the substrate in a vacuum press. After that, I have veneered plywood, and cut it with the usual saws and routers and such. The only place in that process where that veneer saw might be useful would be rough-cutting the veneer. A sharp knife does that much better than the saw. For cross-cutting, use a straight-edge to guide the knife. You don't need to cut entirely through the veneer. You can just score it and snap it, while holding the straight-edge in place. The score and snap takes a second or two. Sawing that same line with that saw would take minutes. Furthermore, the saw tends to splinter out the edge of the veneer at the exit end. My veneer knife is a drywall knife; you can always have a razor-sharp edge.

Jeff Bratt
09-29-2008, 2:35 AM
A veneer saw works very well for making straight cuts in veneer - IF it has been sharpened correctly (http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/saw-sharpen.htm). Then it's like a lot of little sharp knife points and can be guided easily and precisely using a long, thick straightedge. (I recently noticed one vendor that was selling these saws with the teeth sharpened right, but I forget which one.) Usually, though, these are pretty useless straight from the store - but great once you get them sharpened.

Eddie Darby
09-29-2008, 4:54 AM
Cross-grain cuts.

Guy Germaine
09-29-2008, 5:25 AM
I've got a Two Cherries that I bought from Joe Woodworker, and I use it a LOT. I jointed up a 2' long piece of 8/4 walnut that I use as my straightedge, and clamp it down tight. When the saw is sharp, I can make a cut in one pass with no tearout.

Larry Fox
09-29-2008, 7:22 AM
I have one very similar to the one you picture and have never been happy with it at all - even after sharpening. I keep meaning to throw it away but I find a use for it now and again.

I use an inlay saw and have been able to get good results with it but they all need sharpening. I keep waiting for one of the higher quality tool manufactures like Wenzlof, Lie-Nielsen or Gramercy to make a decent veneer saw and will be all over it when they do.

Greg Robbins
09-29-2008, 7:31 AM
A veneer saw works well when cutting with the grain. A blade can have a tendency to follow the grain and not give you a straight cut. I don't use mine often but for grainy veneer I will use it.

Jim Tobias
09-29-2008, 10:01 AM
I have 2 oF the ones like you show. I sharpen both at the same time and then (by flipping the blade) can go a long time before I need to do any sharpening. They are very good in cross grain cutting. BUT, they do (like all cutting tools) need to be sharp. I use other cutting tools (chisel, scalpel) depending on the veneer being cut and also the use of the veneer being cut (panel, inlay piece, etc.).
You can buy these pre sharpened at Joe Woodworker.

Jim

David DeCristoforo
09-29-2008, 12:51 PM
If you sharpen it correctly and use it correctly, it is vastly superior to a knife. To begin with the teeth need to be filed to a sharp point. Then the back needs to be stoned flat. Then the "face" side of teeth are sharpened like a chisel edge. If you do this correctly, the saw will cut cleanly with no tendency to follow the grain on "rip" cuts and with clean, precise end grain cuts. The flat back allows the blade to ride a straight edge while remaining perfectly vertical.

Stan Smith
09-29-2008, 1:23 PM
If you sharpen it correctly and use it correctly, it is vastly superior to a knife. To begin with the teeth need to be filed to a sharp point. Then the back needs to be stoned flat. Then the "face" side of teeth are sharpened like a chisel edge. If you do this correctly, the saw will cut cleanly with no tendency to follow the grain on "rip" cuts and with clean, precise end grain cuts. The flat back allows the blade to ride a straight edge while remaining perfectly vertical.

Thanks for the tips. I have one that I've never used but now will give it a try.

Dave Lehnert
10-01-2008, 6:00 PM
Lots of good info. Thanks!