Home Made Lathes

[Andrew Derhammer]

In my interest to turn large bowls, and not having the money for a $1000 plus lathe, i was wondering if there's resources out there on homebuilt lathes. I have an uncle who's a machinist so he can be a go to guy on how a part should be designed. I was thinking of just having a block of concrete cast in a plyform in the lathe's final resting place. Have (4) 1/2" all thread rods coming up and out of the concrete. Then this would be connected to a steel plate with 2 pillow block bearings where obviously the spindle would be. A floor stand tool rest, not sure what to do with the tailstock. I'll have to play around in inventor. Ideas, thoughts, comments? I wouldn't be doing this alone, i have a group of family members to help, 2 woodworkers, a machinist, and a mech. engineer.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Just so long as the threads coming out of the cement don't limit your alignment options, I don't see any problems. I have seen a number of homemade pillow block lathes online, and I know they can be very effective. As far as the tailstock issue, if you build it beefy enough as a dedicated bowl lathe, you may not even need to bother with one. My current lathe has a shaft that's 2.125 inches in diameter, and I can can turn just about any bowl without a tailstock. But if you wanted to get fancy down the road when you have more money, you could buy a Oneway bed extension, and a Oneway banjo and toolrest. Also, a floor stand for your tool rest seems like a good way to go.

If I were you, or rather if I were building a bowl lathe, I think the above is probably what I would do.

Hutch

[Andrew Derhammer]

Just so long as the threads coming out of the cement don't limit your alignment options, I don't see any problems. I have seen a number of homemade pillow block lathes online, and I know they can be very effective. As far as the tailstock issue, if you build it beefy enough as a dedicated bowl lathe, you may not even need to bother with one. My current lathe has a shaft that's 2.125 inches in diameter, and I can can turn just about any bowl without a tailstock. But if you wanted to get fancy down the road when you have more money, you could buy a Oneway bed extension, and a Oneway banjo and toolrest. Also, a floor stand for your tool rest seems like a good way to go.

If I were you, or rather if I were building a bowl lathe, I think the above is probably what I would do.

Hutch
I was thinking tail stock just for reversing, but a donut chuck would work. Right now this is just an idea, maybe if i save my money. It would probably have to go down stairs which would mean a dust collector would be needed. I'd probably make the concrete block long so it won't tip over. I'll scavenge craigslist for a motor, and the machining should be the price of materials only.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Andrew I know about one turner that makes very large bowls on his homemade lathe.
I can't remember his name right now, I do have his name and address on my computer at home, anyway he made his lathe with a large concrete block poured right in his shop, it's about a yard square and at least that high, he has a shaft on top in two pillow block bearings, probably about 2½"Diameter with a 8" or so faceplate.
I think he has a 3HP motor IIRC.
Now I wouldn't put something like that in my basement if I was you, have you thought about getting some 200 or more pound log section into the basement :eek:, and how about hanging them onto the lathe :rolleyes: ???, I'd like to have a front loader to lift them and also to scoop the shavings out :D :D
Anyway I think you better rethink this thing over :)

[Andrew Derhammer]

It'd fit in the garage, but i think it would mean reorganizing the layout, May work if we get rid of the crappy grizzly "sheet metal" lathe we never use. The rikon can stay though!

[Bart Leetch]

I can't think of the mans name off of the top of my head but here is his lathe an about 1000 pound block of concrete & I think a 1 1/4" shaft in pillow block bearings & a 2 Hp motor & if I remember right a jack shaft to supply several RPM speeds .

I had the good fortune to spend a couple of hours in his shop watching him demo his talent.

He actually has in the past loaded this lathe & taken it on the road for demos.

[Scott Hubl]

http://calexandersworkshop.com/makealathe.html

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26160

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f32/pig-flies-homemade-bowl-lathe-done-13486/

http://www.proserpinewoodturners.com/The_Big_Bowl.html

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=5137

http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/a-lth_kr.htm

[Skip Spaulding]

In issue 191 Sept 2008 Woodturning there is a turner featured using a home made lathe. He can turn 38" dia. and 300lbs.! Uses a manual transmission from a riding mower to change speeds and reverse. 21/4" shaft mounted with pillow block bearings.

[Andrew Derhammer]

I just checked the ole griz lathe. It has a 110/220 2hp motor!:D Ok so convince dad that i we can probably scrap the lathe for some cash. I'll throw up the model that i have in inventor later.

[Andrew Derhammer]

As promised.

[Marty Barron]

Check out this link I found on WoodCentral and there are others you just need to check the archives of Woodcentral.

Marty

http://www.geocities.com/billbrach/newlathe.html

[Tony Bilello]

that several of the well known woodturning artists had home made lathes similar to what you are describing, Andrew. There were no lathes commercially available for turning really large pieces. They were made strictly as bowl lathes and had no tailstock. It wasn't until the 'woodturning explosion' in the mid to late 1980's that some of the monster lathes started becomming available with monster price tags.
The main thing to kep in mind with a large bowl lathe is that variable speed with the slowest speed being close to zero rpm would be highlu recommended. I met one man one time that turned large pieces in the vacinity of 2 and 3 foot diameter foot from logs that weighed several hundred pounds.

Tony B

[Andrew Derhammer]

that several of the well known woodturning artists had home made lathes similar to what you are describing, Andrew. There were no lathes commercially available for turning really large pieces. They were made strictly as bowl lathes and had no tailstock. It wasn't until the 'woodturning explosion' in the mid to late 1980's that some of the monster lathes started becomming available with monster price tags.
The main thing to kep in mind with a large bowl lathe is that variable speed with the slowest speed being close to zero rpm would be highlu recommended. I met one man one time that turned large pieces in the vacinity of 2 and 3 foot diameter foot from logs that weighed several hundred pounds.

Tony B
That set up there would give me about 164 rpm, i could always go to a larger pulley

[Bart Leetch]

I can't think of the mans name off of the top of my head but here is his lathe an about 1000 pound block of concrete & I think a 1 1/4" shaft in pillow block bearings & a 2 Hp motor & if I remember right a jack shaft to supply several RPM speeds .

I had the good fortune to spend a couple of hours in his shop watching him demo his talent.

He actually has in the past loaded this lathe & taken it on the road for demos.

I just remembered the mans name it is Vernon Leibrant here is his web site http://www.vkleibrant.com/index.html

I really enjoyed watching him turn & seeing his shop. I found that he is mentioned in some books in the library.

[Bart Leetch]

Check out the last post for up dates. We now have Vernon's name spelled right & his web site.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

That's the one I meant Bart, I didn't recognize him in the pictures you added to your earlier post, I guess we all get older do we :rolleyes:
Leibrant, another good old Dutch name :D :D

[neil mackay]

Matt,

Home made lathes, I have built a couple for my self, primarily bowl lathes.

The first pic is the smaller of the two and has no tailstock. Its a dedicated bowl lathe.

Construction is from 5"sq tube for the headstock, with sq face mount plumber bearings. The bed is from 4x2 parrallel channel all welded construction.
Banjo post 3sq tube with banjo from 2x3/8 flat bar , with cam locks to bed and banjo areas
Motor 1hp speed 240v [Aust.] speed range around 650 to 1800.It will swing about 30-36" bowl..

The second one is heavier. Construction from two 5" sq tubes welded to gether for stiffness. The bed is unequeal angle 6x2.5"x1/2"thick. This one will have a tailstock and a sliding bed on top of the fixed bed.

All in it should be able to spin 4-5' btween centres and handle a bowl around 3.5-4' in dia. has a 1.5hp, 8amp, 240v motor.

Its also all welded construction. The pic is from an earlier time frame it is much further along the path to being finished.

[Greg Ketell]

This isn't even the biggest one I've seen. I just can't find that one so this will have to do...

http://www.proserpinewoodturners.com/The_Big_Bowl.html

[Bart Leetch]

Has anyone ever thought of purchasing the spindle from say Grizzly or Jet's 16 x 42 lathe to build their lathe around? The reason I ask this is the then you would have an industry standard shaft the has the proper 1-1/4" x 8 TPI RH MT#2 headstock spindle.

[Bob Hallowell]

Matt,

Home made lathes, I have built a couple for my self, primarily bowl lathes.

The first pic is the smaller of the two and has no tailstock. Its a dedicated bowl lathe.

Construction is from 5"sq tube for the headstock, with sq face mount plumber bearings. The bed is from 4x2 parrallel channel all welded construction.
Banjo post 3sq tube with banjo from 2x3/8 flat bar , with cam locks to bed and banjo areas
Motor 1hp speed 240v [Aust.] speed range around 650 to 1800.It will swing about 30-36" bowl..

The second one is heavier. Construction from two 5" sq tubes welded to gether for stiffness. The bed is unequeal angle 6x2.5"x1/2"thick. This one will have a tailstock and a sliding bed on top of the fixed bed.

All in it should be able to spin 4-5' btween centres and handle a bowl around 3.5-4' in dia. has a 1.5hp, 8amp, 240v motor.

Its also all welded construction. The pic is from an earlier time frame it is much further along the path to being finished.

Neil those are great, well done!

Bob

[john taliaferro]

came last week #95877 oliver 21-ac 11200 lb. found it in ny. going to screw a chair on the face plate and offer rides, bernie you want to be first ? john t

[Kim Ford]

Andrew;

If you really want to turn large pieces I have a couple of suggestions.

There were commerically produced lathes that have huge capacity. They were used in pattern shops and I have seen several of them that were designed to turn up to 72" diameter pieces. In some cases they put a pit in the floor to turn larger than that. These big boys weight 10 - 20k pounds and work quite well. The good news is they can be had pretty cheap if you have a way to deal with something that big. They are seldom used commerically anymore because of the CNC machines and many times if you are willing to look around you can find them for little more than scrap prices.

I looked very seriously at building my own big machine a few years ago. The concrete block poured in place machine was the best design I could come up with howerer, when you do the math I think you may want to look around for some of the older machines and see what you can find.

In order to build a suitable lathe that will handle a 200lb chunk of log, you need the concrete block, the pillow blocks, the main shaft, a good size motor (no less than 5hp; imho), the VFD, and then a floor tool rest. And now you are restriced to face plate turning with no tail stock.

I think to do it right and have something that will work and hold up, you are going to spend somewhere between $1200 and $2,000. Maybe less if you can find some parts and pieces around. Either way you will have a good chunk tied up in just the motor, the VFD and the machining; not to mention the tooling, have you priced a 2 1/4" X 8 X 10" faceplate lately? You will need a few of them.

Okay, you have it built, it is in your shop and it works. You have fun with it for a couple of years. What value does it have when you are ready to get rid of it? I don't want to kabosh your idea, I came very close to doing it myself, I even sketched up the plans.

Just to let you know, I found within a 4 hour drive of my house a 2600 lb Oliver with a full bed and tail stock assembly as well as an outboard faceplate that easily can handle 36" plus diameters and spent a little more than the cost I would have spent building a machine. Those deals are out there if you want to look for them.

Good luck which ever way you go.

[Bart Leetch]

Andrew;

If you really want to turn large pieces I have a couple of suggestions.

There were commerically produced lathes that have huge capacity. They were used in pattern shops and I have seen several of them that were designed to turn up to 72" diameter pieces. In some cases they put a pit in the floor to turn larger than that. These big boys weight 10 - 20k pounds and work quite well. The good news is they can be had pretty cheap if you have a way to deal with something that big. They are seldom used commerically anymore because of the CNC machines and many times if you are willing to look around you can find them for little more than scrap prices.

I looked very seriously at building my own big machine a few years ago. The concrete block poured in place machine was the best design I could come up with howerer, when you do the math I think you may want to look around for some of the older machines and see what you can find.

In order to build a suitable lathe that will handle a 200lb chunk of log, you need the concrete block, the pillow blocks, the main shaft, a good size motor (no less than 5hp; imho), the VFD, and then a floor tool rest. And now you are restriced to face plate turning with no tail stock.

I think to do it right and have something that will work and hold up, you are going to spend somewhere between $1200 and $2,000. Maybe less if you can find some parts and pieces around. Either way you will have a good chunk tied up in just the motor, the VFD and the machining; not to mention the tooling, have you priced a 2 1/4" X 8 X 10" faceplate lately? You will need a few of them.

Okay, you have it built, it is in your shop and it works. You have fun with it for a couple of years. What value does it have when you are ready to get rid of it? I don't want to kabosh your idea, I came very close to doing it myself, I even sketched up the plans.

Just to let you know, I found within a 4 hour drive of my house a 2600 lb Oliver with a full bed and tail stock assembly as well as an outboard faceplate that easily can handle 36" plus diameters and spent a little more than the cost I would have spent building a machine. Those deals are out there if you want to look for them.

Good luck which ever way you go.

Great idea even very big idea much to big of an idea for my 13'5" x 24'5" shop. I'm really not looking to turn bowls that big . 24" to 30" & not real deep with most being 24" or smaller being big enough. I think could actually do it outboard on my 1930's Delta double duty lathe by installing a jack shaft & a bigger motor. I've already got it set up & it weighs in at over 400 lbs.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Bart a 1¼" shaft is way to thin to hang those 2 feet and larger blocks of wood on, my lathe has a 3¼ shaft, and I find that not to big for the sizes I have turned on it, but I build onto a engine lathe and didn't have to make a new shaft and drive system, just had to build the outboard platform and banjo toolrests and a solid stand that is bolted to the concrete floor, the large pieces will move the stand and flex the concrete floor, my 75 RPM is slow, but not too slow for the big pieces, the outside edge goes whizzing by and cutting the center parts at 75 RPM is a real slow and time consuming exercise.

There are a few pictures of my setup in the link below, if you are interested have a look.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

[Bart Leetch]

WOW:eek::eek::eek::D I feel like I just got blasted with a 100 MPH wind fantastic set up Leo.

So I guess I stick to small turnings & just do a real good job on them.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Right now you can get a Nova 1624-44 for about $850.00, at Woodcraft, which leaves some money for tools, etc. Good lathe Capacity with headstock turned 29" bowl.

Big enough for me.

Bruce

[Bart Leetch]

I have 3 sets of tools. 3" & 6"face plate the 6"will screw on either the inside or outside & talon chuck as well as a Onewway Wolverine sharpening jig with skew jig & Vari-grind jig. I think I just need more turning material. Also I round up my material pretty good so I should be able to turn some fair sized bowls as long as they are balanced.The bowls may not be whopper sized but they will be big enough for me. I can turn the slowly its a hobby & I am not in a hurry.

I also have a Sears angle drill for sanding bowls.

I am also thinking of getting back to turning pens for that I have a Jet Mini Lathe.

[Jeff Bower]

Look at Item # 250298331866 on the auction site......

Oliver # 20 Wood Lathe 24" X 108" patternmaker metal with outboard turning tool rest

[curtis rosche]

i would say that since you are making your own lathe, you should completly forget the normal spindle sizes, if you are going to do some really big things. i would say that if you can, go for a 3 inch thick spindle. you could make some adapters to fit normal lathe toys, but that would make it more stable for doing really big peices. also i would say that you ought to get a 3hp table saw motor, then when you do your pulleys do some big pulleys, really big, so then you have a lot of torque, and power. but this would kinda be overkill. but if you are going to do some really big stuff, it would make it easier. also if you do the lathe with supersized parts, it looks cool. think tractor parts

[Bernie Weishapl]

came last week #95877 oliver 21-ac 11200 lb. found it in ny. going to screw a chair on the face plate and offer rides, bernie you want to be first ? john t

Bring in on John. If I can ride the Dominator at Kings Dominion with the grandkids I can sure give it a go. :eek::cool::rolleyes:;)

[Kim Ford]

My suggestion for spindle and hp are as follows.

If you use a 2 1/4" x 8 threading for the spindle there is a lot of readily available toys for that size, it is a standard metal lathe size. Although a 2 1/4" shaft turned down to 1 1/2" X 8 is also quite common. I'm just assusming with an open face type lathe you will want to leave your faceplate on the piece during the fininshing stages and that means that you will need several faceplates. My experience is that big pieces have a tendancy to move alot in the drying process and letting a piece "rest" a couple of days after you have made your first final shape from the dried blank is very helpful. The only challange with this is that you want to leave the faceplate on the piece so you don't loose exact center, meaning you need a few faceplates and standard sizes have a tendancy to be found and reasonable prices.

As to horsepower: My suggestion is to find a good inverter duty 3 phase motor 5hp plus probably 1750 rpm, just because that is the most common and usually the best value. At places like Surplus Center these are available very reasonable, like less that $200. Then your VFD, Variable Frequency Drive, needs to be full torque. These are readily availble at any electric motor place or go online. I used Drives Warehouse, they had an engineer that answered my questions and the unit I bought has ben execellent. The VFD allows you to use single phase power so you are set, no expensive starters or wiring.

I would probably set the pulley system to alow for a 3 step graduation to direct drive. With the VFD this gives you a lot of choices and a lot of control.

Just my thinking. Good Luck

[Scott Hubl]

I found this one in the way back machine here, might give you some ideas.
http://70.169.135.35/showthread.php?t=64183

[neil mackay]

Andrew,

A few more details on my larger lathe.

Shaft is 30mm [1.25"] in dia with self aligning bearings approximately 5" apart. I have then turned the remainder of the shaft down to 3/4" to carry the pulley with a 3/4" self aligning bearing at this end. The bearing housing are square plummer type held on by 4 x 3/8" HT bolts.

You can go for a bigger shaft if you wish, but remember the cost of the bearings will rapidly rise, say 3" would be a few hundred dollars for bearings and housings.

As to whether 1.25" is big enough, much of this will depend on how far the bearings are apart. Hence the closeness of mine. The shaft and bearings are capable of carrying far more load than I will ever apply to them. This set up could with ease handle a 10hp motor and given the bearing distance it would be extremely unlikely that I will bend such a short shaft.... and be alive to tell the tale :eek: :)

But if your concerned about the shaft etc, then go to a high tensile grade of steel say 4140 or 1045 which can be heat treated.

It would in my case, be more likely to expect some torsional deflection especially if it suffers weld fatigue or failure, rather than shaft or bearing failure. This concern arose over the first design and so I used two pieces of 5" square tube welded together to give it maximum stiffness. The current motor of 1.5hp. Which may well prove to be under powered. But it was what I had on hand at the time. I dont expect to exceed 3hp in the final design and more than likely it will be around the 2hp mark.

hope this helps

[Andrew Derhammer]

Still playing around w/ ideas here, My design looks like it would clock in at around the 5-6 hundred dollar range. I'm not looking for huge huge pieces, max at 24". The other idea i'm throwing around is getting a grizzly G0462. I know it's a reeves drive and that it only goes down to 600 rpm. I'm looking at schematics now and they are a little hazy on how the pulleys are, I was considering seeing if maybe my uncle would be able to make new pulleys to give a lower rpm range. The bed and leg construction are similar (same?) to the jet and powermatic. This isn't a near future project, may not be a project until next spring or summer, so I still have time for options, maybe even see if grizzly makes improvements to the lathe with a lower rpm range.