good tool for engraving or signing your work

[patricia stein]

hello, Iam new to this forum, just wondering what tool is good for signing my work.:)

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I use a wood burner like in the link, only I made one with a old radargun transformer I happened to have, on some wood it works very easily on others it takes some practicing, but it does not get blurred or removed by a finish like some other ways of signing.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,41115&p=45497

[Nancy Laird]

We have two laser engravers, and hubby developed a signature logo that I use on my turnings. It's a circle, enclosing my initials, my signature, the species of wood, and the date.

97568

It will work on just about anything up to 8" deep--deeper than that I haven't done yet.

[keith zimmerman]

I use a Dremel Engraver. I find it works well on most woods. It has variable speeds which allows you to adjust the speed to the wood.

[Toney Robertson]

We have two laser engravers, and hubby developed a signature logo that I use on my turnings. It's a circle, enclosing my initials, my signature, the species of wood, and the date.

97568

It will work on just about anything up to 8" deep--deeper than that I haven't done yet.


Nancy,

That is REALLY cool. I wish I had the money for a laser engraver. That is exactly what I would like to do with my bowls.

Toney

[Scott Hubl]

I have the Detail Master Excalibre.
http://www.detailmasteronline.com/systems.html

Works very well, can have two pens plugged in at the ready, they heat up within 7 seconds.

Woodcraft carries it in store and the company is located here in IL. Lots of pens/Tips to choose from too.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Shopping%20Spree%20Woodcraft/detail-master-2-closeup.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Shopping%20Spree%20Woodcraft/Detail-Master-1.jpg

[Mike Vickery]

I use a Dremel Engraver. I find it works well on most woods. It has variable speeds which allows you to adjust the speed to the wood.

I have a wood burner but prefer to use the Dremel Engraver. I rub a metalic wax stick ( for repairing gilted picture frames) into the engraveing once it is done.

http://www.distinctiveturnings.com/tutorials/SigningYourWoodturnings.pdf

[Steve Schlumpf]

Patricia - Welcome to the Creek! Hope to see some of your work real soon!

I've tried a number of different ways of signing my work and have settled on using an archival pen (India Ink) which can be found in most any craft/hobby store. Once I am done turning I write name, wood species and date on the bare wood, let dry for about 1 minute and then apply finish. Works great for me!

[Wilbur Pan]

Ultra fine point black Sharpie.

Caveat: I haven't turned anything from real dark wood yet. But when I do, I'll give the Sharpie extra fine paint marker a try. There's one in white.

[Allen Neighbors]

I use a $20 wood burner from Wal-Mart. It didn't get as hot as I'd like, so I filed the sharpest tip so that it would have a smaller shoulder, making it get hotter. It works fine. It's good for the signature, wood type and date, but is worthless for woodburnig a piece like some turners like to do.

[Gary Max]

Lets see---I have a air Engraver---and a wood burner.
Most of the time I just grab a Sharpie---Guess I am lazy--- :)

[patricia stein]

thank you all for your help,and steve hopefully my work will get on the site. will try the method mike vickery suggested first. again thank you all for your time. p.stein

[Mark Hix]

I use a cheap-o wood burner. but then, my name only has straight lines so it is easy.

[Ron McKinley]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98227

I've used for a few months now and still going strong. Due to the shape it's easier to control than a Dremel.....Ron

[Nancy Laird]

We have two laser engravers, and hubby developed a signature logo that I use on my turnings. It's a circle, enclosing my initials, my signature, the species of wood, and the date.

It will work on just about anything up to 8" deep--deeper than that I haven't done yet.

I forgot to mention that we also produce pressure-sensitive-adhesive veneer logo decals for various people - just got through running a batch of 100 for a customer in Colorado (unfortunately, not a Creeker, yet). All I'd need is a logo or suggestions for one, we can design and produce. Lot of our customers who order round ones use a Forstner bit to put in an impression just the depth the same as the thickness of the veneer, so when the decal is applied, it is flush with the surface of the item. The veneer is 10 mil and the white birch lasers the best--but it's available in red oak, white birch, mahogany, white oak, cherry, walnut, ash, maple, knotty pine, pecan. If you're interested, PM me.

[Lee DeRaud]

I forgot to mention that we also produce pressure-sensitive-adhesive veneer logo decals for various people - just got through running a batch of 100 for a customer in Colorado (unfortunately, not a Creeker, yet). All I'd need is a logo or suggestions for one, we can design and produce. Lot of our customers who order round ones use a Forstner bit to put in an impression just the depth the same as the thickness of the veneer, so when the decal is applied, it is flush with the surface of the item. The veneer is 10 mil and the white birch lasers the best--but it's available in red oak, white birch, mahogany, white oak, cherry, walnut, ash, maple, knotty pine, pecan. If you're interested, PM me.I've used that trick for a few pieces that are too tall to fit in the laser. But I use thin (1/32") BB plywood and glue it in: I just can't seem to get a good enough contrast with the PSA veneer without burning through, while the plywood goes almost black when the laser gets to the glue under the top layer.

[Walt Nollan]

I have used a Sharpie, a pen style wood burner and now I use a turbo carver with a dental bit and fill it with a contrasting colored epoxy.