couple questions about resawing

[Jeff Monson]

I'm going to build a cherry dressor and would like to make the drawer fronts curved, so I'll need to laminate the fronts, I've had very little experiene with resawing. I own a 14" powermatic bandsaw and was planning on buying an extension kit for it.

Any advice on a blade, thickness and tooth count.

Any advice on keeping my cut straight, I did resaw some 1/4 sawn oak and had terrible blade drift with a 1/2" blade.

Any advice on how thick I should resaw the laminations, I'd like to have a 3/4" front when completed and want as few laminations that I can get buy with.

[Chris Friesen]

For resawing typical drawer fronts on your saw, I'd recommend 2-3tpi, 1/2", with a hook tooth.

Drift is a function of the blade, the alignment of the saw, and the positioning of the blade on the wheels. You can either correct the drift, align the fence to the drift, or use a single-point guide.

Instead of resawing and laminating, you could very likely also make the drawers with thicker fronts and just saw the curve into it. Depending on how much curve you're talking, the waste difference may not be all that different.

[Frank Drew]

Jeff,

Just a thought, but you might consider buying some thick veneer from one of the specialist suppliers; years ago I got some 1/16" cherry for laminated legs I was doing from The Wood Shed in Buffalo (now out of business, I think), but Certainly Wood and/or others might have what you need.

[Bob Wingard]

Steam-bending is also an option.

[Thomas Pender]

I agree with what Chris wrote, i.e., :

"For resawing typical drawer fronts on your saw, I'd recommend 2-3tpi, 1/2", with a hook tooth.

Drift is a function of the blade, the alignment of the saw, and the positioning of the blade on the wheels. You can either correct the drift, align the fence to the drift, or use a single-point guide."

However, I would add: A high quality blade is another key - I use a 3 tpi, usually a Timberwolf or high end Olson carbide and make sure it is waxed a bit - this really helped. There have been several articles in Fine Woodworking over the years addressing tensioning, but I typically make it just tight enough to hold onto the tires without slipping. You also have to be careful not to overfeed - I try to keep the blade as cool as I can. I also use a high fence (a resawing fence was an option on my saw and I bought it) and try a scrap piece first to make sure I am getting the split I want. Also, I measure the cut with a very accurate rule and do not rely on the fence ruler. My old woodworking teached told me to cut it a bit thick - very easy to plane out an overage and measure to your desired thickness using calipers, impossible to add:). Usually I joint both sides dead flat and that gives me a flat edge to use to plane back from the middle on for each half. Gives great bookmatches. If I am cutting more than one piece out, I joint it each time.

Oh - I am sure you do it, but don't forget to make sure you use an accurate square to make sure your table is adjusted to a perfect 90 degrees to the saw blade when it is tensioned.

Another thing, my Grizzly band saw, knock on wood, drifts very little, if at all - have no idea why. I have never aligned the fence. I know guys say their saws drift, but I have no idea how much is too much or whether they really should drift.

[John Browne]

Resawing is fun. Get a GOOD blade--many people like the Woodslicer, sold by Highland Hardware. Timberwolf blades are also good, for resawing I prefer the Woodslicer--cuts faster, thinner kerf and less set.

Before you waste some spendy cherry, practice practice practice. Get some different woods and see how you do cutting off thin and thick slices. There's definitely an art to it. You'll want to set your fence to compensate for drift with the blade you choose. A number of articles have discussed doing this. Also, if you get the blade to track true to the center of he wheel, and it hasn't been abused, it should cut with little or no drift.

If I were going to cut multiple parts with a curve, I'd probably make a curve-cutting template fence. Most of the band saw books show how to do it.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of the finished work.